Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (4)

ive got a bench top polishing wheel and a dremel and die grinders, Ive also had some success at polishing flat pieces of aluminum. what do I need to polish cast material and really get into crevises?

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Patience is a virtue for sure. You need some micro cartrige rolls. I think you can get them as small as 3/16" OD. Getting all the way down in deep joints is a real bitch. Depending on how course the cast is, you may want a tapered 3/16" carbide cutter. That will get you to smooth material IF you are very careful. Folded sandpaper in increasing grits is how you are most likely going to have to finish it.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (4)

On flat Aluminum I Always start at either 600-800 and move up to 2000 wet. But getting into these crevises looks damn near impossible not to mention it will take FOREVER. I know that cant be the way polishing shops do it. they wouldnt make any money.....

Whats the best compounds to use? I have the "white" stick compound on a "fine" pad for finishing but it still doesnt give me the same shine that a pro gets.... are they using a different wheel? polish?

99taws6

iTrader: (2)

When I was doing motorcycle frames I used a 3m velcro pad with the 3" sanding discs. It was made of foam so it would flex and contour. I also used some polish in my water when I wet sanded. It really brought out a deeper shine.

VegaJim

iTrader: (1)

Polishing shops have many different cartridge rolls for polishing in the crevices. Usually more money invested in cartridge rolls then the hobbyist would buy to make it worth it. It can be done by hand sanding and buffing with a bench grinder and a hardware store buffing wheel, but takes alot of time. Crevices and tight spots make or brake a good polishing job.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

NOBODY on this forum (except maybe ~JOSHUA ) can emphasize how much TIME it takes to get the results you're looking for. everyone posting before me is correct, you need a ton of little cartridge rolls, in many different grits, and equally as many grits of sandpaper.

one thing i will say that hasn't been mentioned is, after the METICULOUS sanding by hand, when you go to buffing, HEAT is the key. your buffing wheels and compounds are important, but you have to get the part hot so the compounds do their work, not glowing red hot, but HOT, like wear gloves and don't drop it hot. all you should need compound-wise is Tripoli (brown) polish and the white rouge. as long as you TAKE YOUR TIME with the sanding, and go from one grit to the next without skipping or leaving the previous grit's scratches, you'll be good...i promise it will be worth it in the end and you'll never want to do it again

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

and when you're finished polishing, I reccomend seailng it with something or else you'll be back polishing it before you know it.

Compstall

iTrader: (5)

Agreed. I've got over 120 hours into my bike polishing, and I can say that the actual polishing phase is the easy part. Sanding is a bitch, and if you don't do a good job sanding, it will show right through when you polish.