Any Benchtop Milling Machine Users?
For some reason I was on Amazon yesterday, and found this:
http://www.amazon.com/Jet-660012-Cla...9239206&sr=1-2
On sale for $36 shipped. I bought 2.
The mill I have uses 1/2" T-slots, my drill press has 9/16" non-T slots, but I figure a 1/2" stud will work just fine in it also. I need more clampin' stuff. 
Sucks when parts go flying.
http://www.amazon.com/Jet-660012-Cla...9239206&sr=1-2
On sale for $36 shipped. I bought 2.
The mill I have uses 1/2" T-slots, my drill press has 9/16" non-T slots, but I figure a 1/2" stud will work just fine in it also. I need more clampin' stuff. Sucks when parts go flying. Well, after doing some more searching, I came up with more info about my mill.
It's a Rong Fu 20/25 clone. Rong Fu is a well known Taiwanese manufacturer of "decent" stuff.
I also learned that round column mills (like I have) are not all that desirable. Reason being, if you move the head at all vertically, you just screwed up x-y alignment with your part (since the head will likely wiggle back and forth a little bit). The head rotates all the way around the column, and while this may (to some) sound good, for milling it's probably bad. That's why most people recommend a square back or dove tail mill. Bigger mills like Bridgeports have a huge flat surface along which their table knee slides up and down. This keeps them square the the quill.
I figured out the motor wiring (had no schematics or codes, so I had to to it the old fashioned way - measure ohms, flip the switch, etc). I fired up the mill last night (still on the floor) and made some plastic chips. It's working.
I'm going to try to move it up to the bench tonight. The little vise that came with it sucks, so I ordered a new Wilton vise yesterday... along with some low-vibration belts.
It's a Rong Fu 20/25 clone. Rong Fu is a well known Taiwanese manufacturer of "decent" stuff.
I also learned that round column mills (like I have) are not all that desirable. Reason being, if you move the head at all vertically, you just screwed up x-y alignment with your part (since the head will likely wiggle back and forth a little bit). The head rotates all the way around the column, and while this may (to some) sound good, for milling it's probably bad. That's why most people recommend a square back or dove tail mill. Bigger mills like Bridgeports have a huge flat surface along which their table knee slides up and down. This keeps them square the the quill.
I figured out the motor wiring (had no schematics or codes, so I had to to it the old fashioned way - measure ohms, flip the switch, etc). I fired up the mill last night (still on the floor) and made some plastic chips. It's working.
I'm going to try to move it up to the bench tonight. The little vise that came with it sucks, so I ordered a new Wilton vise yesterday... along with some low-vibration belts. 
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Well, after doing some more searching, I came up with more info about my mill.
It's a Rong Fu 20/25 clone. Rong Fu is a well known Taiwanese manufacturer of "decent" stuff.
I also learned that round column mills (like I have) are not all that desirable. Reason being, if you move the head at all vertically, you just screwed up x-y alignment with your part (since the head will likely wiggle back and forth a little bit). The head rotates all the way around the column, and while this may (to some) sound good, for milling it's probably bad. That's why most people recommend a square back or dove tail mill. Bigger mills like Bridgeports have a huge flat surface along which their table knee slides up and down. This keeps them square the the quill.
It's a Rong Fu 20/25 clone. Rong Fu is a well known Taiwanese manufacturer of "decent" stuff.
I also learned that round column mills (like I have) are not all that desirable. Reason being, if you move the head at all vertically, you just screwed up x-y alignment with your part (since the head will likely wiggle back and forth a little bit). The head rotates all the way around the column, and while this may (to some) sound good, for milling it's probably bad. That's why most people recommend a square back or dove tail mill. Bigger mills like Bridgeports have a huge flat surface along which their table knee slides up and down. This keeps them square the the quill.
Mike
Last edited by Mikey 97Z M6; Aug 22, 2008 at 04:55 PM.
I agree, I've blown $150 on far more useless stuff. That's like 2 bottles of good single malt Scotch. 
The R8 collets and stuff will ease in to a Bridgeport some day hopefully.
I took the afternoon off, made space and got my machine up on a table now. Babysteps... really need the T-clamps before I can do anything though. Regular bolt heads don't seem to work all that well. I suppose I could fab something up....
That's like 2 bottles of good single malt Scotch. The R8 collets and stuff will ease in to a Bridgeport some day hopefully. I took the afternoon off, made space and got my machine up on a table now. Babysteps... really need the T-clamps before I can do anything though. Regular bolt heads don't seem to work all that well. I suppose I could fab something up....
I looked at the bench top stuff, and i knew that in a few years i would want to step up.
A customer at my brothers work was talking about selling his machine tools and he asked him if he knew anyone looking for some tools. Went to his house that night and got these things.
He also this brand new tig welder
I would just look for a used bridgeport. You will be much happier.
Then just start doing a little bit of side work to help pay for it.
A customer at my brothers work was talking about selling his machine tools and he asked him if he knew anyone looking for some tools. Went to his house that night and got these things.
He also this brand new tig welder
I would just look for a used bridgeport. You will be much happier.
Then just start doing a little bit of side work to help pay for it.
Seems like the upper midwest and the northeast have all the good deals. I have read so many stories about people scoring great equipment for cheap in those areas.
There's just about NOTHING around here.
I got 2 responses to my "WTB: Lathe or Mill" ad on Craigslist. The mill I bought, and then a Harbor Freight 7x10 mini lathe. I passed on the lathe, as I knew that I'd want bigger. I am now looking for a 'real' lathe. With the mill, I can mess around with this one while looking for a BP, and anything I buy can be used on a BP (since this one is R8). Lathes don't really work that way. A collet for a Harbor Freight model won't work on a South Bend. So I want to buy the one I want, straight away.
Those are very nice looking machines. Look well taken care of.
There's just about NOTHING around here.
I got 2 responses to my "WTB: Lathe or Mill" ad on Craigslist. The mill I bought, and then a Harbor Freight 7x10 mini lathe. I passed on the lathe, as I knew that I'd want bigger. I am now looking for a 'real' lathe. With the mill, I can mess around with this one while looking for a BP, and anything I buy can be used on a BP (since this one is R8). Lathes don't really work that way. A collet for a Harbor Freight model won't work on a South Bend. So I want to buy the one I want, straight away.Those are very nice looking machines. Look well taken care of.
Dangerously enough for me, I have a 3/4 ton Suburban and a trailer.
I'm talking to a guy about a Warner-Swazey lathe right now via email. It may be too big for my shop though. Waiting for him to get back with me on specifics. It's really tough to tell size on lathes from pictures. It could be a bench size, it could be a monster. Who knows. He was originally looking to trade 'something' for it. I offered my newly acquired mill.
Still working on it, cleaning it etc. I was wondering why the quill return acted all wonky... the spring was OK, but it wouldn't return properly. Turns out the spring was installed backwards. I reversed the spring, and it returns like a champ now. 24 years? of backwards spring. No wonder the table has so many chew marks.
Edit: that WS lathe was a no-go. Did some research, the turret lathe isn't all that desirable for what I wanted. He was asking $850, I offered him $250 (close to scrap value). It's a monster tho.
I'm talking to a guy about a Warner-Swazey lathe right now via email. It may be too big for my shop though. Waiting for him to get back with me on specifics.
It's really tough to tell size on lathes from pictures. It could be a bench size, it could be a monster. Who knows. He was originally looking to trade 'something' for it. I offered my newly acquired mill. Still working on it, cleaning it etc. I was wondering why the quill return acted all wonky... the spring was OK, but it wouldn't return properly. Turns out the spring was installed backwards.
I reversed the spring, and it returns like a champ now. 24 years? of backwards spring. No wonder the table has so many chew marks.Edit: that WS lathe was a no-go. Did some research, the turret lathe isn't all that desirable for what I wanted. He was asking $850, I offered him $250 (close to scrap value). It's a monster tho.
Last edited by Camaroholic; Aug 23, 2008 at 06:36 PM.
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
You can't go wrong with a Bridgeport. If anybody in metro NY/NJ area is looking for one I've got one I am selling see this link for caraigslist http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/788513877.html. I also have a South Bend Lathe which is a great machine, but I am not selling the lathe just the mill. Once you own a good, quality machine you begin to use it for more things than you first anticipated. I agree that you are better off waiting a little longer until you can afford a better mill. In the long run, you will be doing yourself a favor. After all, how often are you going to buy a mill?
That's a nice little Bridgeport for sale. $1500 would be a good deal.
Mine's "in service", cleaned up and all that, though I still lack the Fenner drive belts. Got the new Wilton (Chinese) 6" machinist vise today, you can see it in this picture. Compare it to the original vise on the desk to the right. This thing's a monster. I'd love a Kurt vise, but didn't feel like paying double for one for this mill... the accuracy on this mill just won't be enough to bother with it.
And I got bit by the round column... forgot to tighten the column bolts, and as soon as the mill touched the work piece, it scoochied right across the piece and in to the side. Ouch.
And the dang T-nuts I ordered were too big for this table. The slots measure .487" or so (metric, 12mm). The T-nuts are .5". Given the choice between milling the table, the t-nuts, or being lazy, I just ordered some 7/16" nuts and 3/8" studs from Grizzly. 36 bucks. Done.
Mine's "in service", cleaned up and all that, though I still lack the Fenner drive belts. Got the new Wilton (Chinese) 6" machinist vise today, you can see it in this picture. Compare it to the original vise on the desk to the right.
This thing's a monster. I'd love a Kurt vise, but didn't feel like paying double for one for this mill... the accuracy on this mill just won't be enough to bother with it. And I got bit by the round column... forgot to tighten the column bolts, and as soon as the mill touched the work piece, it scoochied right across the piece and in to the side. Ouch.
And the dang T-nuts I ordered were too big for this table. The slots measure .487" or so (metric, 12mm). The T-nuts are .5". Given the choice between milling the table, the t-nuts, or being lazy, I just ordered some 7/16" nuts and 3/8" studs from Grizzly. 36 bucks. Done.
Last edited by Camaroholic; Aug 27, 2008 at 09:07 PM.
How about CNC capability? I found this company. http://www.cncmasters.com/Catalogue.php . I really want to be able to do some computer controlled stuff even it is not all that complicated and still be able to manually mill things. Are there any other brands out there that have some capability, I don't want something too small.
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2
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new poster here
I just picked up a Jet 16 and need some parts anyone have anything laying around.
i need the 2 gib plates and the bottom nut that mounts on the bottom table to bring it in and out.
a manual would be great also
thanks
I just picked up a Jet 16 and need some parts anyone have anything laying around.
i need the 2 gib plates and the bottom nut that mounts on the bottom table to bring it in and out.
a manual would be great also
thanks
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thanks for the help
The machine I picked up is in realy nice shape if it wasnt for the missing parts it looks like when the guy packed it up must have lost a box of small parts I'm missing the gibs all the hardware and the lower nut for the lead screw.
So now the hunt is on .
The machine I picked up is in realy nice shape if it wasnt for the missing parts it looks like when the guy packed it up must have lost a box of small parts I'm missing the gibs all the hardware and the lower nut for the lead screw.
So now the hunt is on .
