Converting Unibody 4th gen to Solid Frame?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 0
To build a whole frame to set the body on you are going to need a table or something to build it on. It has to be perfectly strait and level. That way you can check everything as you tack and weld it together. Is that broken concrete floor all you have to work on?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,814
Likes: 3
From: Hou. TX.
I've got a larger, flatter slab behind my house. I think I'm going to cover it to give me a decent place to work. I do see all the shops using a heavy 4x4 steel base to build their cars up from. That makes sense. I can then level it out to make a nice foundation.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,814
Likes: 3
From: Hou. TX.
I was thinking about the side rails under the doors. It looks like a single round tube would work well and if I make the side skirts out of sheetmetal, there would be room for an exhaust pipe next to it. I don't know where Id put the muffler, but there's room for a 2.5" pipe there if I need it. A tucked up side exit exhaust in front of the back tires would be really cool.
Here is a cross section of the passenger side, with the door above.
I can cut away this part of it.
Here is the main tube. I think round would work better than square. Kind of like Shelbys Cobra main rails.
Any thoughts on this idea?
Here is a cross section of the passenger side, with the door above.
I can cut away this part of it.
Here is the main tube. I think round would work better than square. Kind of like Shelbys Cobra main rails.
Any thoughts on this idea?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,814
Likes: 3
From: Hou. TX.
Here is the same idea using square tubing. There are 3 attachment points instead of 2, which is better, but it looks a bit strange. I don't know. Maybe I should go with the square.
I can add some little braces from the main rail to the side skirt every 12" or so just to give it some rigidity. It wouldn't be a solid sheet across there.
I can add some little braces from the main rail to the side skirt every 12" or so just to give it some rigidity. It wouldn't be a solid sheet across there.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,814
Likes: 3
From: Hou. TX.
Heres a nice little frame that is similar to what I need. Front engine, 2 seater, beefy firewall to support the front frame rails.
Since I want to keep the door sills low, I'll add a structural trans tunnel.
Since I want to keep the door sills low, I'll add a structural trans tunnel.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,814
Likes: 3
From: Hou. TX.
The rear IRS is going to be a complete dropout from a T-bird. The main frame structure will be welded straight into the chassis so its weight will be added to the total chassis weight.
I don't like the stock upper arms, though. I'll replace them with tubular units and may even convert them to an A shape similar to the Mustang Cobra version.
I don't like the stock upper arms, though. I'll replace them with tubular units and may even convert them to an A shape similar to the Mustang Cobra version.
Last edited by JasonWW; Dec 6, 2008 at 06:50 PM.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 0
are you thinking of using 4-5" pipe for your main framerail? holy hell that is very large in diameter. I would go smaller diameter and heavier wall if I was doing this. Especially if you are going to use a cage. That can go into the design of the chassis. Your framerails wont have to be as heavy with the cage to help ad rigidity.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,814
Likes: 3
From: Hou. TX.
Yep, 4" or 5". The taller the better. Keep in mind I have all that space under the door that can be used. Why not use it?
I'll probably have a rollbar hoop in the back and maybe one around the front windshield. If I tied them together it would be with twin tubes down the center like the T-top shape. I'd rather not have it, though.
If I don't connect them, then I need to rely on the side rails and the trans tunnel for rigidity.
I'll probably have a rollbar hoop in the back and maybe one around the front windshield. If I tied them together it would be with twin tubes down the center like the T-top shape. I'd rather not have it, though.
If I don't connect them, then I need to rely on the side rails and the trans tunnel for rigidity.
Last edited by JasonWW; Dec 6, 2008 at 10:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,814
Likes: 3
From: Hou. TX.
It's just that everyone around here is real conservative. I'd fit right in to the mini truck crowd. They do this stuff all the time.
Hey, how about a vid of your car flying by 1" above the ground? Or maybe a donut at the same height? That'd be cool.
Hey, how about a vid of your car flying by 1" above the ground? Or maybe a donut at the same height? That'd be cool.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,814
Likes: 3
From: Hou. TX.
Oh yeah, concerning using a big diameter tube for the main side rails, besides it requiring less work to do, I can cap the ends and use them for my air storage tanks. 
I'm all about efficiency.
I'm all about efficiency. 
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,814
Likes: 3
From: Hou. TX.
I was checking some prices and round tube over 4" really jumps up in price.
Now I understand why most folks use rectangular tubing if possible.
I don't have a way to measure the exact size I'm going to need, but if I went with a 4x2, 4x3 or 4x4 tube, would .125 wall be strong enough? I know it's stronger that what the factory used and the convertible cars seem ok. I figure this will be strong enough. I want it to be light, but not too light. Know what I mean? I'd rather err on the side of caution and have a few extra pounds than have the car be a flexi flier.
Now I understand why most folks use rectangular tubing if possible.
I don't have a way to measure the exact size I'm going to need, but if I went with a 4x2, 4x3 or 4x4 tube, would .125 wall be strong enough? I know it's stronger that what the factory used and the convertible cars seem ok. I figure this will be strong enough. I want it to be light, but not too light. Know what I mean? I'd rather err on the side of caution and have a few extra pounds than have the car be a flexi flier.
Last edited by JasonWW; Dec 8, 2008 at 09:02 AM.