FS: '93 Mazda RX-7 with built LS6 and T-56 working AC and PS. New paint.
08-23-2008 | 07:34 PM
#1
FS: '93 Mazda RX-7 with built LS6 and T-56 working AC and PS. New paint. $26,000 including EVERYTHING. Reduced from $29,000 which didn't include extra parts. Absolute bargain for this well sorted out swap with built engine, built tranny, new paint, AC, PS, and many other goodies.
Please e-mail me with any questions at whitesti84@gmail.com as it's the best way to reach me if you want the fastest response from me.
This car has working AC and PS. Everything works like they came from the factory this way.
video of the car idling and revving: YouTube - idling and revving
This is one of the nicest swaps you'll see. Everything works like it came from factory this way, and it has working AC and power steering. You'll see comparable swaps going for around the same price as mine or higher, but without the built engine and transmission. I've taken multiple 800 mile roundtrips between Ohio and Virginia, and every time, this car ran flawlessly. I'm confident you can buy this car and go cross-country without any headaches. This car is in perfect mechanical condition.
If you want to know more about LSx swaps into RX-7s, visit www.v8rx7forum.com It basically gives power and reliability to RX-7s while maintaining 50:50 weight distribution. The weight difference between 13B and LS1/2/6 is only about 20~30lbs. The imediate response and torque of big NA V8 engine is great, especially in such a light and great handling chasis. This car also gets good gas mileage even with the cam setup. I averaged 25mpg during the trip to Virginia three weeks ago with windows down(didn't have AC at the time). With windows up, it should average close to 30 as windows down at 55mph costs about 20% in mpg.
Here is a basic rundown of the car.
-1993 Touring
-165,000 miles on chasis
-5000 miles on engine, 1000 miles on tranny
-Built LS6 (C5 Corvette Z06 engine)
-T-56 6-speed transmission built to 600hp specs
-new paintjob including engine bay and all jams
Overall, it is very nicely built, and it's perfect mechanically. You won't see many more sorted out swaps like this. Exterior is 9.5/10 and interior is 7.5/10. It has a new carpet and the seats are in great condition, but the factory plastics are showing their age. I was planning to paint all of them or just replace them with new ones, so I'll leave that one up to the new owner. Factory gauges all work like they should.
This car started off as a 1993 touring model that was originally Montego Blue, but has had a full color change by a professional bodyshop to 2004 Corvette Medium Spiral Grey Metallic. It had spent most of its life in Arizona, and was built by the previous owner in Virginia. The underbody looks excellent without any rust. I bought it in January and changed/added a lot of things on the car to perfect it to my likings.
Interior:
Brand new black carpet and rear hatch carpet
Black interior(rear bins and quarter panels are painted. They were tan originally)
Mazda RX7 R2 model suede black leather seats
Shaved rear wiper arm
Kenwood head unit(forgot the model name... has a nice LCD display and plays MP3 CDs)
Infinity Kappa 50.7cs 5-1/4" Component speakers(BNIB. Not yet installed but I'll put them in for the new owner.)
Optima Redtop relocated battery with a circuit breaker shutoff in the rear storage bins.
PLX Wideband O2 sensor and digital readout(in the glovebox)
Factory gauges all work
Engine:
LS6 Block with 40k original miles
New LS6 Heads with sodium filled exhaust valves
LS6 intake manifold
Diamond forged pistons
Je total seal rings
Balanced and blueprinted engine
GM MLS head gaskets
Comp Cam 228/232 .600/.602 116lsa+1
PRC dual valvesprings/titanium retainers
Texas Speed Chromoly pushrods
Comp lifters
Clevite coated cam/main/rod bearings
ARP 12 point head/main studs
ARP 2000 Rod bolts
Callies Compstar rods
New oil pressure and temp sensors
1 3/4" Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers with V-bands
Hinson Supercars Deluxe mounting kit
Aluminum driveshaft
Custom Aluminum Radiator
Slim FAL Cooling Fan
Walbro 255lph high pressure fuel pump
Corvette fpr
Delphi 42# injectors
LS2 timing chain
New GM engine seals/gaskets
LS1 engine wiring
1999 LS1 Ecu
LS1 MAF sensor
Polyurethane filled motor mounts
ATP rubber intake elbows
Dual 3" pipes to single 4" pipe
Two 3" Magnaflow cats
Hooker Aerochamber 3.5" muffler
Magnaflow exhaust tip
K&N Cone Filter
3.5" Custom Air Intake Piping
HPTuners Pro engine management
Improved Racing oil pan baffle (no more oil starvation in high cornering G situations)
Thermotec Heat Sleeve on fuel line
Drivetrain:
T-56 6-Speed transmission(just rebuilt 5000 miles ago)
Carbon kevlar synchros 1-6
1-4 billet keys
1-6 bronze fork pads
3-4 steel shift fork
Spec stage 3+ Clutch
Spec billet flywheel
US Brake clutch master cylinder
Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line
Heat Wrapped Clutch Line
SGI-5 Speedometer Correction
New LS6 slave cylinder
Steeda Tri-Ax Handle
Razo Shift **** (Also have a 03 Cobra **** which I'll include)
New GM Transmission Mount
Insulated transmission tunnel
Exterior:
New OEM Mazda Weather Stripping
New BFGoodrich G-force T/A tires
Rotary Extreme HID headlight conversion
99 spec tail lights (not 93 modified lights... they are OEM 99+ tails)
Full Color Change including door jambs, trunk, engine bay
Evo-R CF hood dampers
R1 front lip
JKL Racing aluminum door handles (no more broken handles!!)
CF look door handle and triagle(near the side mirrors) covers
Enkei RP03 17X8.5 17X9.5(400 miles ago)
Sumitomo HTRZ III 255/40/17 275/40/17(400 miles ago)
Brakes:
Slotted rotors all around
SS brake lines
HP+ pads in all around
Extras:
HP Tuners Pro software CD
Super Pro urathane bushing kit (worth $560 or so. It's really a nice kit and I recommend you change the bushings on the car as it really makes the suspension feel like new.)
Koni Yellow Shocks($600) brand new
Tein H-tech springs($200) brand new
Upper shock mounts with low miles in great condition(paid $100 for them)
The engine is built to rev to 7500+ rpm and the bottom end is proven to hold up to 800 or so hp. My plan was to run a 150hp shot of nitrous on the car eventually which would put the car around 600 rwhp. The car has over $30,000 invested into the swap, parts, and the paint not including labor.
The car has 166k on the chasis, and only about 5000 miles on the built motor. Most of the suspension parts have around 30k miles on them.
The paint job was done when the car was being built, so it's less than a year old. It does not have any imperfections at all besides few rock chips from highway driving. I think I counted about 4~5 rock chips last time I waxed the car. The paint quality looks great.
Here is a list of imperfections. all cosmetics except one.
-There is a dime sized chip on the black center peice that goes between the tail lights.
-The driver's side map pocket lid is 94+ finish. It also has some cracks.
-The shifter panel has some broken tabs and pops out easily... it stays in place unless you take it out, though.
-There is a hole in a shift boot(I was just going to get a new shifter and e-brake boot from redlinegoods.com).
-Steering wheel is worn in many spots(used ones in good condition are cheap... $100 or less. Or you can upgrade to 99+ wheels or aftermarket).
-There are small scratches in the rear bins that show the tan color below. Unnoticeable unless you really look close. It can simply be touched up with any plastic paint.
-There is some surface rust on intake piping, exhaust piping, and Hinson subframe, which most likely happened during last winter in Ohio(damn salt...). It's nothing to be worried about but I am mentioning it for full disclosure about the car. The underbody is extremely clean otherwise. I've taken a good look many times on the lift.
-There is some bucking under 2000RPM. This is expected due to the cam. It can be tuned out but I've never looked into it as it didn't bother me much. Just push the clutch in when it bucks.
The car is dyno tuned by Brian @ Dyno Tune Motorsports, who is a very reputable local tuner with tons of experience. It made 395rwhp through two 3" cats. This car definitely has more in it, and I think the cats I have are just too restrictive. I think I'll try dynoing w/o cats and see what I get. Otherwise, the tune is great. The drivability down low is great and you can cruise at 1500rpm in 6th gear no problem. It is currently my daily driver and I enjoy driving it everyday.
There is a local guy that owns LS1 FD himself and was one of the first to do the swap. Hinson Supercars took the subframe design from him and mass produced it. He checked over the car for me and his shop did almost all the work on the car. He said the car seems to be nicely built and couldn't see anything wrong with it.
Here are a few pics of the car:
Pics with new wheels and tires:
More pics of the car: ls6fd4sale/ls6 fd - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
NOTE: the car has stock seatbelts now as there is no way that I'd run a harness without a real harness bar.
I think that covers just about everything. Do not hesistate to ask if you can think of anything that I didn't cover. Thanks for looking.
Please e-mail me with any questions at whitesti84@gmail.com as it's the best way to reach me if you want the fastest response from me.
This car has working AC and PS. Everything works like they came from the factory this way.
video of the car idling and revving: YouTube - idling and revving
This is one of the nicest swaps you'll see. Everything works like it came from factory this way, and it has working AC and power steering. You'll see comparable swaps going for around the same price as mine or higher, but without the built engine and transmission. I've taken multiple 800 mile roundtrips between Ohio and Virginia, and every time, this car ran flawlessly. I'm confident you can buy this car and go cross-country without any headaches. This car is in perfect mechanical condition.
If you want to know more about LSx swaps into RX-7s, visit www.v8rx7forum.com It basically gives power and reliability to RX-7s while maintaining 50:50 weight distribution. The weight difference between 13B and LS1/2/6 is only about 20~30lbs. The imediate response and torque of big NA V8 engine is great, especially in such a light and great handling chasis. This car also gets good gas mileage even with the cam setup. I averaged 25mpg during the trip to Virginia three weeks ago with windows down(didn't have AC at the time). With windows up, it should average close to 30 as windows down at 55mph costs about 20% in mpg.
Here is a basic rundown of the car.
-1993 Touring
-165,000 miles on chasis
-5000 miles on engine, 1000 miles on tranny
-Built LS6 (C5 Corvette Z06 engine)
-T-56 6-speed transmission built to 600hp specs
-new paintjob including engine bay and all jams
Overall, it is very nicely built, and it's perfect mechanically. You won't see many more sorted out swaps like this. Exterior is 9.5/10 and interior is 7.5/10. It has a new carpet and the seats are in great condition, but the factory plastics are showing their age. I was planning to paint all of them or just replace them with new ones, so I'll leave that one up to the new owner. Factory gauges all work like they should.
This car started off as a 1993 touring model that was originally Montego Blue, but has had a full color change by a professional bodyshop to 2004 Corvette Medium Spiral Grey Metallic. It had spent most of its life in Arizona, and was built by the previous owner in Virginia. The underbody looks excellent without any rust. I bought it in January and changed/added a lot of things on the car to perfect it to my likings.
Interior:
Brand new black carpet and rear hatch carpet
Black interior(rear bins and quarter panels are painted. They were tan originally)
Mazda RX7 R2 model suede black leather seats
Shaved rear wiper arm
Kenwood head unit(forgot the model name... has a nice LCD display and plays MP3 CDs)
Infinity Kappa 50.7cs 5-1/4" Component speakers(BNIB. Not yet installed but I'll put them in for the new owner.)
Optima Redtop relocated battery with a circuit breaker shutoff in the rear storage bins.
PLX Wideband O2 sensor and digital readout(in the glovebox)
Factory gauges all work
Engine:
LS6 Block with 40k original miles
New LS6 Heads with sodium filled exhaust valves
LS6 intake manifold
Diamond forged pistons
Je total seal rings
Balanced and blueprinted engine
GM MLS head gaskets
Comp Cam 228/232 .600/.602 116lsa+1
PRC dual valvesprings/titanium retainers
Texas Speed Chromoly pushrods
Comp lifters
Clevite coated cam/main/rod bearings
ARP 12 point head/main studs
ARP 2000 Rod bolts
Callies Compstar rods
New oil pressure and temp sensors
1 3/4" Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers with V-bands
Hinson Supercars Deluxe mounting kit
Aluminum driveshaft
Custom Aluminum Radiator
Slim FAL Cooling Fan
Walbro 255lph high pressure fuel pump
Corvette fpr
Delphi 42# injectors
LS2 timing chain
New GM engine seals/gaskets
LS1 engine wiring
1999 LS1 Ecu
LS1 MAF sensor
Polyurethane filled motor mounts
ATP rubber intake elbows
Dual 3" pipes to single 4" pipe
Two 3" Magnaflow cats
Hooker Aerochamber 3.5" muffler
Magnaflow exhaust tip
K&N Cone Filter
3.5" Custom Air Intake Piping
HPTuners Pro engine management
Improved Racing oil pan baffle (no more oil starvation in high cornering G situations)
Thermotec Heat Sleeve on fuel line
Drivetrain:
T-56 6-Speed transmission(just rebuilt 5000 miles ago)
Carbon kevlar synchros 1-6
1-4 billet keys
1-6 bronze fork pads
3-4 steel shift fork
Spec stage 3+ Clutch
Spec billet flywheel
US Brake clutch master cylinder
Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line
Heat Wrapped Clutch Line
SGI-5 Speedometer Correction
New LS6 slave cylinder
Steeda Tri-Ax Handle
Razo Shift **** (Also have a 03 Cobra **** which I'll include)
New GM Transmission Mount
Insulated transmission tunnel
Exterior:
New OEM Mazda Weather Stripping
New BFGoodrich G-force T/A tires
Rotary Extreme HID headlight conversion
99 spec tail lights (not 93 modified lights... they are OEM 99+ tails)
Full Color Change including door jambs, trunk, engine bay
Evo-R CF hood dampers
R1 front lip
JKL Racing aluminum door handles (no more broken handles!!)
CF look door handle and triagle(near the side mirrors) covers
Enkei RP03 17X8.5 17X9.5(400 miles ago)
Sumitomo HTRZ III 255/40/17 275/40/17(400 miles ago)
Brakes:
Slotted rotors all around
SS brake lines
HP+ pads in all around
Extras:
HP Tuners Pro software CD
Super Pro urathane bushing kit (worth $560 or so. It's really a nice kit and I recommend you change the bushings on the car as it really makes the suspension feel like new.)
Koni Yellow Shocks($600) brand new
Tein H-tech springs($200) brand new
Upper shock mounts with low miles in great condition(paid $100 for them)
The engine is built to rev to 7500+ rpm and the bottom end is proven to hold up to 800 or so hp. My plan was to run a 150hp shot of nitrous on the car eventually which would put the car around 600 rwhp. The car has over $30,000 invested into the swap, parts, and the paint not including labor.
The car has 166k on the chasis, and only about 5000 miles on the built motor. Most of the suspension parts have around 30k miles on them.
The paint job was done when the car was being built, so it's less than a year old. It does not have any imperfections at all besides few rock chips from highway driving. I think I counted about 4~5 rock chips last time I waxed the car. The paint quality looks great.
Here is a list of imperfections. all cosmetics except one.
-There is a dime sized chip on the black center peice that goes between the tail lights.
-The driver's side map pocket lid is 94+ finish. It also has some cracks.
-The shifter panel has some broken tabs and pops out easily... it stays in place unless you take it out, though.
-There is a hole in a shift boot(I was just going to get a new shifter and e-brake boot from redlinegoods.com).
-Steering wheel is worn in many spots(used ones in good condition are cheap... $100 or less. Or you can upgrade to 99+ wheels or aftermarket).
-There are small scratches in the rear bins that show the tan color below. Unnoticeable unless you really look close. It can simply be touched up with any plastic paint.
-There is some surface rust on intake piping, exhaust piping, and Hinson subframe, which most likely happened during last winter in Ohio(damn salt...). It's nothing to be worried about but I am mentioning it for full disclosure about the car. The underbody is extremely clean otherwise. I've taken a good look many times on the lift.
-There is some bucking under 2000RPM. This is expected due to the cam. It can be tuned out but I've never looked into it as it didn't bother me much. Just push the clutch in when it bucks.
The car is dyno tuned by Brian @ Dyno Tune Motorsports, who is a very reputable local tuner with tons of experience. It made 395rwhp through two 3" cats. This car definitely has more in it, and I think the cats I have are just too restrictive. I think I'll try dynoing w/o cats and see what I get. Otherwise, the tune is great. The drivability down low is great and you can cruise at 1500rpm in 6th gear no problem. It is currently my daily driver and I enjoy driving it everyday.
There is a local guy that owns LS1 FD himself and was one of the first to do the swap. Hinson Supercars took the subframe design from him and mass produced it. He checked over the car for me and his shop did almost all the work on the car. He said the car seems to be nicely built and couldn't see anything wrong with it.
Here are a few pics of the car:
Pics with new wheels and tires:
More pics of the car: ls6fd4sale/ls6 fd - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
NOTE: the car has stock seatbelts now as there is no way that I'd run a harness without a real harness bar.
I think that covers just about everything. Do not hesistate to ask if you can think of anything that I didn't cover. Thanks for looking.
Last edited by Rookie84; 08-26-2008 at 02:25 AM.
08-26-2008 | 02:29 AM
#5
^Thanks for the kind words.
I noticed I made a couple mistakes in the ad and fixed them. The fuel lines has been heat wrapped for a while. Also, every interior part has been replaced with great condition black parts, except the rear bins and rear quarter panels. Bins have some very minor scratches, which can be touched up using any plastic paint.
I noticed I made a couple mistakes in the ad and fixed them. The fuel lines has been heat wrapped for a while. Also, every interior part has been replaced with great condition black parts, except the rear bins and rear quarter panels. Bins have some very minor scratches, which can be touched up using any plastic paint.
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09-07-2008 | 12:07 AM
#8
Yup, still for sale.
The car has developed a couple problems and I've found a few more interior imperfections so I'll lower the price accordingly to $24,000 firm.
-Rear diff is leaking. A seal on the front side of it is bad.
-Bushings need to be replaced. The car has developed some noticeable clunks.
-Few more interior imperfections... a couple of rips in the center console near the rear bins(unnoticeable unless the seats are tilted and pulled up all the way forward, which is the reason why I haven't noticed it until now), and the passenger side door panel is a bit loose
It'll probably cost around 10 hours of labor to install all the bushings and new suspension setup, which should cost around $700 in labor or so(all the parts are included - bushing kit and new suspension setup). Rear diff shouldn't cost that much as it's just a seal that needs to be replaced I'm guessing around 6 hours of labor? So that's just about $1000 in labor if you have someone do the work, and then rest of the discount is for the interior stuff, which should be enough to get everything replaced like new parts.
E-mail me or call me at 571-236-3107 if you're seriously interested.
The car has developed a couple problems and I've found a few more interior imperfections so I'll lower the price accordingly to $24,000 firm.
-Rear diff is leaking. A seal on the front side of it is bad.
-Bushings need to be replaced. The car has developed some noticeable clunks.
-Few more interior imperfections... a couple of rips in the center console near the rear bins(unnoticeable unless the seats are tilted and pulled up all the way forward, which is the reason why I haven't noticed it until now), and the passenger side door panel is a bit loose
It'll probably cost around 10 hours of labor to install all the bushings and new suspension setup, which should cost around $700 in labor or so(all the parts are included - bushing kit and new suspension setup). Rear diff shouldn't cost that much as it's just a seal that needs to be replaced I'm guessing around 6 hours of labor? So that's just about $1000 in labor if you have someone do the work, and then rest of the discount is for the interior stuff, which should be enough to get everything replaced like new parts.
E-mail me or call me at 571-236-3107 if you're seriously interested.
