need some help with cam setup
With a nitrous and the h/c, you will most likely max your injectors out. I hope you're not scared to go to a big cam because of driveabilty but because you don't want it to sound like it's cammed. I have a mid 230s cam and it drives like stock but pulls hard! It was tuned by CMS and driveabilty has a lot to do with the tune. Dry or wet is a preference. I don't think one is a whole bunch safer than the other.
I'd be careful with alot of "iffy" facts ive already read in this post in reply to your questions.
1) Dry and wet kits both work great. Your car being a 98 has 28.8lb/hr injectors which will support more horsepower than 99-02 cars. You should have no problem with the factory injectors with the modifications on your car. Dry kits work great if they are setup right and tuned correctly. The biggest problem with dry setups is people just bolt them on and start spraying the car without any other changes. A proper dry kit will be completely reliable, completely 100% hidden/concealable in the engine bay and have no problems.
One main thing with dry installs is do a custom tune that has a built in timing retard, proper air/fuel correction when activated. This only requires a knowledge tuner that has experience with dry tuning. Ive only seen 1-2 people online discussing dry kits that knew how to do this properly.
I dont recommend a "standard" dry kit over 150hp jetting without several upgrades. Most standard wet kits work very well up to 200 rwhp..i dont recommend over 150 on a stock shortblock for most people. I have sprayed stock shortblocks with 200-250 setups, many for years and hundred plus passes in the 10's at the track.
2) On the cam setup, I really think you will be dissapointed with the results on stock manifolds. Your car will be giving up 30+ rwhp on the stock manifold with a 224/224 or bigger camshaft in the car compared to having longtubes on the car.
P.S. My black SS that you drove a couple weeks ago has a 224/224 camshaft and makes over 420 rwhp but has every bolt on. Car has been 11.7/117 at the track. Driveability is no problem at all with that cam.
If you want to stay with stock manifolds and make solid power numbers, I would really recommend a 214/230 with an aggressive LSk intake lobe giving .601/.575 lift on a 116/117 LSA. This will have a stock like idle (much tamer than a 224/224) I doubt most people will know it has a cam and make great power on the stock manifolds. It will make more power and be faster than the 224/224 on stock manifolds
Also with the 243 heads, i would recommend selling them for the going rate ($400-$500 ebay) and putting a few hundred extra into some PRC stg 2.5 5.3L cnc heads. Youll see much larger gains and make all the labor and other parts cost ($150 in head gaskets/head bolts/oil/coolant/gaskets/misc etcetc) much more worth it
1) Dry and wet kits both work great. Your car being a 98 has 28.8lb/hr injectors which will support more horsepower than 99-02 cars. You should have no problem with the factory injectors with the modifications on your car. Dry kits work great if they are setup right and tuned correctly. The biggest problem with dry setups is people just bolt them on and start spraying the car without any other changes. A proper dry kit will be completely reliable, completely 100% hidden/concealable in the engine bay and have no problems.
One main thing with dry installs is do a custom tune that has a built in timing retard, proper air/fuel correction when activated. This only requires a knowledge tuner that has experience with dry tuning. Ive only seen 1-2 people online discussing dry kits that knew how to do this properly.
I dont recommend a "standard" dry kit over 150hp jetting without several upgrades. Most standard wet kits work very well up to 200 rwhp..i dont recommend over 150 on a stock shortblock for most people. I have sprayed stock shortblocks with 200-250 setups, many for years and hundred plus passes in the 10's at the track.
2) On the cam setup, I really think you will be dissapointed with the results on stock manifolds. Your car will be giving up 30+ rwhp on the stock manifold with a 224/224 or bigger camshaft in the car compared to having longtubes on the car.
P.S. My black SS that you drove a couple weeks ago has a 224/224 camshaft and makes over 420 rwhp but has every bolt on. Car has been 11.7/117 at the track. Driveability is no problem at all with that cam.
If you want to stay with stock manifolds and make solid power numbers, I would really recommend a 214/230 with an aggressive LSk intake lobe giving .601/.575 lift on a 116/117 LSA. This will have a stock like idle (much tamer than a 224/224) I doubt most people will know it has a cam and make great power on the stock manifolds. It will make more power and be faster than the 224/224 on stock manifolds
Also with the 243 heads, i would recommend selling them for the going rate ($400-$500 ebay) and putting a few hundred extra into some PRC stg 2.5 5.3L cnc heads. Youll see much larger gains and make all the labor and other parts cost ($150 in head gaskets/head bolts/oil/coolant/gaskets/misc etcetc) much more worth it
I'd be careful with alot of "iffy" facts ive already read in this post in reply to your questions.
1) Dry and wet kits both work great. Your car being a 98 has 28.8lb/hr injectors which will support more horsepower than 99-02 cars. You should have no problem with the factory injectors with the modifications on your car. Dry kits work great if they are setup right and tuned correctly. The biggest problem with dry setups is people just bolt them on and start spraying the car without any other changes. A proper dry kit will be completely reliable, completely 100% hidden/concealable in the engine bay and have no problems.
One main thing with dry installs is do a custom tune that has a built in timing retard, proper air/fuel correction when activated. This only requires a knowledge tuner that has experience with dry tuning. Ive only seen 1-2 people online discussing dry kits that knew how to do this properly.
I dont recommend a "standard" dry kit over 150hp jetting without several upgrades. Most standard wet kits work very well up to 200 rwhp..i dont recommend over 150 on a stock shortblock for most people. I have sprayed stock shortblocks with 200-250 setups, many for years and hundred plus passes in the 10's at the track.
2) On the cam setup, I really think you will be dissapointed with the results on stock manifolds. Your car will be giving up 30+ rwhp on the stock manifold with a 224/224 or bigger camshaft in the car compared to having longtubes on the car.
P.S. My black SS that you drove a couple weeks ago has a 224/224 camshaft and makes over 420 rwhp but has every bolt on. Car has been 11.7/117 at the track. Driveability is no problem at all with that cam.
If you want to stay with stock manifolds and make solid power numbers, I would really recommend a 214/230 with an aggressive LSk intake lobe giving .601/.575 lift on a 116/117 LSA. This will have a stock like idle (much tamer than a 224/224) I doubt most people will know it has a cam and make great power on the stock manifolds. It will make more power and be faster than the 224/224 on stock manifolds
Also with the 243 heads, i would recommend selling them for the going rate ($400-$500 ebay) and putting a few hundred extra into some PRC stg 2.5 5.3L cnc heads. Youll see much larger gains and make all the labor and other parts cost ($150 in head gaskets/head bolts/oil/coolant/gaskets/misc etcetc) much more worth it
1) Dry and wet kits both work great. Your car being a 98 has 28.8lb/hr injectors which will support more horsepower than 99-02 cars. You should have no problem with the factory injectors with the modifications on your car. Dry kits work great if they are setup right and tuned correctly. The biggest problem with dry setups is people just bolt them on and start spraying the car without any other changes. A proper dry kit will be completely reliable, completely 100% hidden/concealable in the engine bay and have no problems.
One main thing with dry installs is do a custom tune that has a built in timing retard, proper air/fuel correction when activated. This only requires a knowledge tuner that has experience with dry tuning. Ive only seen 1-2 people online discussing dry kits that knew how to do this properly.
I dont recommend a "standard" dry kit over 150hp jetting without several upgrades. Most standard wet kits work very well up to 200 rwhp..i dont recommend over 150 on a stock shortblock for most people. I have sprayed stock shortblocks with 200-250 setups, many for years and hundred plus passes in the 10's at the track.
2) On the cam setup, I really think you will be dissapointed with the results on stock manifolds. Your car will be giving up 30+ rwhp on the stock manifold with a 224/224 or bigger camshaft in the car compared to having longtubes on the car.
P.S. My black SS that you drove a couple weeks ago has a 224/224 camshaft and makes over 420 rwhp but has every bolt on. Car has been 11.7/117 at the track. Driveability is no problem at all with that cam.
If you want to stay with stock manifolds and make solid power numbers, I would really recommend a 214/230 with an aggressive LSk intake lobe giving .601/.575 lift on a 116/117 LSA. This will have a stock like idle (much tamer than a 224/224) I doubt most people will know it has a cam and make great power on the stock manifolds. It will make more power and be faster than the 224/224 on stock manifolds
Also with the 243 heads, i would recommend selling them for the going rate ($400-$500 ebay) and putting a few hundred extra into some PRC stg 2.5 5.3L cnc heads. Youll see much larger gains and make all the labor and other parts cost ($150 in head gaskets/head bolts/oil/coolant/gaskets/misc etcetc) much more worth it
thanks jim
