Will I break 300 rwhp with my mods?
06-14-2009, 03:48 AM
#23
i havent touched the MAF or TB other than a good cleaning and the airfoil. unlike LS1s that benefit from a larger TB/different MAF, the LT1s are good for up to 400+rwhp with the stock TB/MAF. i almost blew 300 bucks on a 58mm, but research on here stopped me from making that mistake
06-14-2009, 03:56 AM
#24
i havent touched the MAF or TB other than a good cleaning and the airfoil. unlike LS1s that benefit from a larger TB/different MAF, the LT1s are good for up to 400+rwhp with the stock TB/MAF. i almost blew 300 bucks on a 58mm, but research on here stopped me from making that mistake
I know WAY more about LT1s then I do LS1s... (not that that is saying much
).First of all, GM DESIGNED the engine for a 52mm TB (hence the intake port being a 52mm opening) but threw a 48mm on there for intake noise (just like that gay silencer).
So you need to AT LEAST get the 52mm... I say go 58mm. LT1s notoriously run pig rich, you change the FPR and drop the PSI from 44+ to 39 or so. Runs GREAT for awhile then computer adjust.
58MM TB is kind of like sneaking more air in KEEPING the mixture leaner and running better (even on tuned cars these ******* still try to run rich).
MAF sensor port and polish is a MUST for the same reason. I never recommend P&P on LS1s, just de-screen, but on a LT1 it should be one of the first things...
Fan Switch is cheap, easy and will help you on dyno (to keep it cool between runs, just like at the track) as well.
When people say "good for up to..." it normally means you don't see an increase in power by changing it out until you go over that power mark... LT1s ALWAYS dyno more JUST from a TB or MAF (port and polish NOT AN AFTERMARKET ONE, THEY ARE USUALLY CRAP) when they are only making 245-275hp so that is a huge BS statement whomever told you that.
Yeah, you CAN MAKE 400hp with the stock TB and MAF... You can also MAKE 400hp through stock manifolds, doesn't mean you should, just making it harder on yourself
06-14-2009, 03:57 AM
#25
and no i do not have 1.6 RRs. my cam is very similar to the stock cam out of an LT4, so a rocker upgrade wasnt made. had i had more time and been paying for it, i would have gone a little more extreme as stated before. i need to get a sound clip up so everyone can hear why im happy with my build 
06-14-2009, 04:10 AM
#28
and yes i know a bigger TB will net me some power, but i cant justify the gain for the $$$. If mine breaks, i will go bigger. but for what i have its not a restriction quite yet. i look at a bigger TB as a cutout. My exhaust is 3in piping straight back from the cat. If i put a cutout on, i might see some increase over my current exhaust, but IMO that hp isnt worth close to 300 bucks.
06-14-2009, 11:02 AM
#29
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and yes i know a bigger TB will net me some power, but i cant justify the gain for the $$$. If mine breaks, i will go bigger. but for what i have its not a restriction quite yet. i look at a bigger TB as a cutout. My exhaust is 3in piping straight back from the cat. If i put a cutout on, i might see some increase over my current exhaust, but IMO that hp isnt worth close to 300 bucks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-5...1%7C240%3A1318
06-14-2009, 08:12 PM
#31
^^Might be a little gain on a stock car but not a car with cam and headers let alone larger (even slightly) displacement.
You have to round all the bases if you really want to make over 300hp. I'm saying you need:
CAI
P&P MAF
1LE Bellow
52mm or 58mm TB
Headers
Catback
Then before I would even do a cam (unless you had money to do at the same time obviously) I would do 1.6RRs. The factory tolerances are just way too crappy on the LT1 factory RRs.
Now, you obviously have a lot of this stuff. I would say get a TB and RRs and you're good for over 300hp...
These things are just necessities on those cars, with or without the cam. It isn't like someone telling you to buy a tornado or something
The airfoil is a waste of money though to be honest, it is one of the mods you skip and go straight to TB. Even a 52mm nets a NOTICEABLE difference driving around, 58mm is over kill for you but if you find one cheap enough it is worth it as well...
You have to round all the bases if you really want to make over 300hp. I'm saying you need:
CAI
P&P MAF
1LE Bellow
52mm or 58mm TB
Headers
Catback
Then before I would even do a cam (unless you had money to do at the same time obviously) I would do 1.6RRs. The factory tolerances are just way too crappy on the LT1 factory RRs.
Now, you obviously have a lot of this stuff. I would say get a TB and RRs and you're good for over 300hp...
These things are just necessities on those cars, with or without the cam. It isn't like someone telling you to buy a tornado or something
The airfoil is a waste of money though to be honest, it is one of the mods you skip and go straight to TB. Even a 52mm nets a NOTICEABLE difference driving around, 58mm is over kill for you but if you find one cheap enough it is worth it as well...
06-14-2009, 08:14 PM
#32
and yes i know a bigger TB will net me some power, but i cant justify the gain for the $$$. If mine breaks, i will go bigger. but for what i have its not a restriction quite yet. i look at a bigger TB as a cutout. My exhaust is 3in piping straight back from the cat. If i put a cutout on, i might see some increase over my current exhaust, but IMO that hp isnt worth close to 300 bucks.
06-14-2009, 10:59 PM
#33
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Whats little gain? 10-20RWHP? all for under $200? Possibly even more sense your running with cam.
I can list a few owners of stock heads/cam LT1 IMPALA's That have seen 300's with FULL bolt-ons (that includes springs and 1.6rockers)
But Like 6Liter said, dont think its gonna happen unless you get all your intake components. And if not going long tubes might need 1.6RR's/Better springs too.
I keep this bookmarked for these situations.
http://www.ws6.com/mod-4.htm
I can list a few owners of stock heads/cam LT1 IMPALA's That have seen 300's with FULL bolt-ons (that includes springs and 1.6rockers)
But Like 6Liter said, dont think its gonna happen unless you get all your intake components. And if not going long tubes might need 1.6RR's/Better springs too.
http://www.ws6.com/mod-4.htm
06-14-2009, 11:45 PM
#34
I mean, don't get me wrong, **** costs money and that right there is enough reason to not do it... Just trying to make sure your reason for not doing it isn't the BS some people must have led you to believe on here or something. Those particular mods are tried and true necessities.
06-15-2009, 07:31 PM
#35
I mean, don't get me wrong, **** costs money and that right there is enough reason to not do it... Just trying to make sure your reason for not doing it isn't the BS some people must have led you to believe on here or something. Those particular mods are tried and true necessities.
Last edited by hitmanws6; 06-15-2009 at 07:53 PM.
06-15-2009, 08:35 PM
#36
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You're listening to cyber racers that don't know their **** then...
I know WAY more about LT1s then I do LS1s... (not that that is saying much).
First of all, GM DESIGNED the engine for a 52mm TB (hence the intake port being a 52mm opening) but threw a 48mm on there for intake noise (just like that gay silencer).
So you need to AT LEAST get the 52mm... I say go 58mm. LT1s notoriously run pig rich, you change the FPR and drop the PSI from 44+ to 39 or so. Runs GREAT for awhile then computer adjust.
58MM TB is kind of like sneaking more air in KEEPING the mixture leaner and running better (even on tuned cars these ******* still try to run rich).
MAF sensor port and polish is a MUST for the same reason. I never recommend P&P on LS1s, just de-screen, but on a LT1 it should be one of the first things...
Fan Switch is cheap, easy and will help you on dyno (to keep it cool between runs, just like at the track) as well.
When people say "good for up to..." it normally means you don't see an increase in power by changing it out until you go over that power mark... LT1s ALWAYS dyno more JUST from a TB or MAF (port and polish NOT AN AFTERMARKET ONE, THEY ARE USUALLY CRAP) when they are only making 245-275hp so that is a huge BS statement whomever told you that.
Yeah, you CAN MAKE 400hp with the stock TB and MAF... You can also MAKE 400hp through stock manifolds, doesn't mean you should, just making it harder on yourself
I know WAY more about LT1s then I do LS1s... (not that that is saying much
).First of all, GM DESIGNED the engine for a 52mm TB (hence the intake port being a 52mm opening) but threw a 48mm on there for intake noise (just like that gay silencer).
So you need to AT LEAST get the 52mm... I say go 58mm. LT1s notoriously run pig rich, you change the FPR and drop the PSI from 44+ to 39 or so. Runs GREAT for awhile then computer adjust.
58MM TB is kind of like sneaking more air in KEEPING the mixture leaner and running better (even on tuned cars these ******* still try to run rich).
MAF sensor port and polish is a MUST for the same reason. I never recommend P&P on LS1s, just de-screen, but on a LT1 it should be one of the first things...
Fan Switch is cheap, easy and will help you on dyno (to keep it cool between runs, just like at the track) as well.
When people say "good for up to..." it normally means you don't see an increase in power by changing it out until you go over that power mark... LT1s ALWAYS dyno more JUST from a TB or MAF (port and polish NOT AN AFTERMARKET ONE, THEY ARE USUALLY CRAP) when they are only making 245-275hp so that is a huge BS statement whomever told you that.
Yeah, you CAN MAKE 400hp with the stock TB and MAF... You can also MAKE 400hp through stock manifolds, doesn't mean you should, just making it harder on yourself
Ohh ****
, this is weird(Good *** Advice though) coming from a Ls1 guy. First thing they tell me is junk the LT and get a LSX. I did notice a slight difference with a 52mm TB and if your goal is 300hp than every bolt on will be a must. I say just dyno it, cause you never know.
06-15-2009, 09:23 PM
#37
its all about $$$. the only thing wrong with my TB was the coolant lines were a little corroded, but the bypass took care of that problem. and i got the airfoil back when i was in the mindset that everything counts. i noticed a little different intake sound so i guess it didnt all go to waste. the cam was thrown in with the cost of the build, Lee pulled a lot of strings to make it work. once i get the suspension to where im comfortable with it, i will go back to power modding
58mm is overkill, for now. No reason not to go bigger now if you can afford it though in case you do need it later.
06-15-2009, 09:58 PM
#39
Ohh ****, this is weird(Good *** Advice though) coming from a Ls1 guy. First thing they tell me is junk the LT and get a LSX. I did notice a slight difference with a 52mm TB and if your goal is 300hp than every bolt on will be a must. I say just dyno it, cause you never know.
, this is weird(Good *** Advice though) coming from a Ls1 guy. First thing they tell me is junk the LT and get a LSX. I did notice a slight difference with a 52mm TB and if your goal is 300hp than every bolt on will be a must. I say just dyno it, cause you never know.