Make sure you get a new o-ring when you install the new oil pump.
Do you use conventional or synthetic?

 

its going to be my first oil change in the car, i heard that conventional works just as good as synthetic or some people had better results

 

Bumb videos post if u could let me know if u hear any odd noises that be great. vids on bottom of page 1

 

why was a bearing issue brought up... when you change out the oil filter, cut it open and ispect for copper shavings...

i cant imagine any shop that rebuilds engines, especially hi-po wouldnt change the oil pump on a rebuild...i would start with the pickup tube o-ring and work from there...also pick up a chiltons manual and it will have a walk through of how to go through an oil pump, check all parts and clearances..
list of possible other places it can leak or cause issues-
front oil galley freeze plug on driver side under timing cover...not very common but can occur...
plastic "dogbone" plug for rear oil galley...o-ring inside that can leak...als not very common but possible...if either of these plugs were missing the engine would have zero oil pressure, so a leak would be the case in this situation of if it were infact the part in question.
camshaft retainer plate - there is a gasket on the back side that ties together the lifter oil galleys...sometimes they get flattened out or broken...replace if this is the case...if it is not broken just flat you can run a very VERY light coat of grey silicone to seal it...i cant stress enough how little silicone you really need to use...do not want anyof it to protrude in the galley borewhen plate is compressed..
loose oil pressure sending unit.
cracked pickup tube...this is not very common but can happen...ive seen incidents where they have been drilled by accident tapping oil pan for turbo drain lol.
service port on oil pan...if you look above your oil filter...there is a cast aluminumpiece held on by two ten MM bolts...it has a non tapped boss in it...on corvettes it is used for oil temp sensor, on fbodies it has no purpose...but there is a gasket behind it...it is also part of the sealed oil system so if it leaks you have issues...also not that common but possible..
oil pump to block...double roller timing sets are more common because of the spacers, butit can leak ona stock application as well...once again a very VERY light layer of grey silicone can help fix this issue...make sure the sealing surfaces are clean of any debris...as well as clean of any oil or else silicone wont seal properly...
collapsed lifters can cause oil pressure issues, but i dont think this is your problem...
bearing clearance can also effect oil pressure, but this is a new issue for you so i do not believe this is your problem...

from what you have explained so far, id have to say its probably the pickup tube o-ring..

also what oil do you run currently? 10-30?

 

^^^ right now it mobile one 10-30 ty you sure know alot lol of possibles but i will start with the o-ring and i will check the oil filter. where is the pickup tube o-ring located in the oil pan.

 

it is right in the front where the pan meets the block.. if you dont want to drop the pan, you must remove the oil pump to change it...its a little tricky to get to the bolt, but im sure you can handle it.

 

And if this was ur problem this where you would start?

 

I dont see anywhere in the video that it drops under about 25psi, and it only gets that low at idle, as soon as you are on the throttle it goes up to 40psi. While I dont think thats good I also dont think its bad. What do you know of that is done to the motor?

 

I would suggest that you drain the oil first and see if there is anythin on the plug, and then cut open the filter looks like. If there is anything that looks like a shiny substance in there it's most likely not good. I'm going to be honest if a motor was running fine then the oil pressure just went to **** it's never good. Yes the best case being the o ring is just messed up, but don't be surprised if there's something really wrong.

 

this was a quick around the block once if driven longer it does end up at 10

 

doing this sat. changing oil and cutting into the oil filter if there is metal substance what can that possible be

 

all i really know it was built by LAPD has AFR heads, and a mild cam which im in process of finding which cam it is.

 

if there is metal stuff everywhere, its going to be a bearing... I know that isn't what you want to hear but its the truth... my friend bought a car that was modded from a guy in new york, we made it to Colorado and the entire bottom end was shot. we had a couple hard pulls in it, but seriously a motor that isn't hurt should be able to do more then a couple hard 1st gear pulls..

 

bearings produce copper colored shavings...dont jump the gun...rule out the small stuff before you go tearing apart your entire engine.

 

yeah but most of the time a motor that has an issue with the o ring, has no or very bad oil pressure on the very first moment it is fired up. not after it had perfectly fine oil pressure and has been driving just fine. then all of a sudden the oil pressure went to ****. he bought the a modded car with afr heads a cam and a rebuilt short block. i'm sure the guy before him didn't have all that work done to drive it like a girl..

 

When t goes down to 10psi is the motor bogging down to like 400rpm or no matter what rpm you are at it falls to 10psi?

 

its falls at 10 when idle and when little trottle goes up but when drive normal goes to like under 40 and floored little above i think. the owner emailed me saying that it was always was like that and ran fine just have to let it warm up. but i had this problems after its warmed up. owner used as daily. Also has block was from a c5 dont think that matters tho just another thing LAPD did.

Hopefully today ill be doing the oil change and checking the filter
wont be able to buy O-ring till 2marrow since dealers are close weekends

 

Yea the block is no different, the 98 blocks had small differnce in the oil system but nothing that will cause that.

The reason I ask is when my old cam was having idle problems it would drop to 400rpm or so until it would idle and when it bogged down I would see pretty low oil pressure but thats because the motor is turning slower.

 

So i did the oil change and the oil pressure still drops to 10 after warmed up makes no knocking and idles with no problems when driven it goes to under 40 and under heavy loads it passes 40 . Chris tells me it could be the rebuild is bad and oil is sipping down and not building pressure. also the oil pan plug had normal amount of metal shavings and didnt look like it was chopper i still need to cut into the oil filter but dont know what i need to cut it open.

Checking oil pump and putting new o-ring this weekend thanx for everyone with the info and helping me figure this out.

 

do yourself a favor and read through everything in the link i posted, there are tons of different and odd reasons why people lost oil pressure. I would first start out by hooking up a mechanical valve to make sure your car is reading the pressure correctly. If you tear into it there are multiple things you can check so you dont have to keep getting back into it. Good luck

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...sure-idle.html