Buyers beware when dealing with Wicked94z
05-23-2010, 02:32 AM
#22
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All this is not gonna change the fact that you are not considerate enough to take back a part that you vouched to work. You put your name on it and that just goes to show that that doesn't mean **** to you. Instead of keeping a good rapport with me and taking it back when it didn't fit my application as you assured me, you chose to just screw it off. Especially when I told you that I'd buy your torque arm when you're ready to sell it to buy the pro torque arm.
05-23-2010, 02:52 AM
#23
Honestly I don't even know how you're running stock LCAs with that rear. My rearend from moser wasn't even close to being square in the car, I had to get adjustables. You mentioned you have relocation brackets... you wouldn't be running your LCAs in the bottom hole would you? Pretty sure that would bring the rearend forward a decent amount.
05-23-2010, 04:24 AM
#24
Just my .02 cents...
He's right down the road 10 minutes. Why don't you just give him his money back, take back the driveshaft and sell it to someone else who's car it fits? Simple...
No need to bash each other on here...
But I must admit, I think it's pretty shady to sell someone a part on the assumption that it fits, then say FU when it doesn't, I'm keeping your money... that's just not right...
He's right down the road 10 minutes. Why don't you just give him his money back, take back the driveshaft and sell it to someone else who's car it fits? Simple...
No need to bash each other on here...
But I must admit, I think it's pretty shady to sell someone a part on the assumption that it fits, then say FU when it doesn't, I'm keeping your money... that's just not right...
Last edited by Soul TKR; 05-23-2010 at 04:45 AM.
05-23-2010, 04:30 AM
#25
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Thanks for the heads up.
Unfortunately, sometimes even when someone seems like a stand up person, the truth only comes out when a situation like this comes up.
Unfortunately, sometimes even when someone seems like a stand up person, the truth only comes out when a situation like this comes up.
05-23-2010, 10:55 AM
#26
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Was the rear at full extension when you tried installing the shaft? This may be your issue, the DS length is properly measured/fitted with the car at ride height. With the rear hanging as it would be on a lift, it moves forward. If your working on jack stands under the frame rail, jack the rear housing untill the jack stands "unload" then test the DS fitment.
05-23-2010, 12:43 PM
#27
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thats some **** up ****, when the part is not for the correct car,now that is some easy money you trying to make...to me.thats why i get my **** new and to fit my car, model,performance,and year..now you know dont make deals that will cost you more down the road..
05-23-2010, 12:57 PM
#28
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Did the seller have the same style rear and tranny as you? Then the driveshaft should work or be very close to working. Its not the sellers fault if you purchased the item listed and it doesnt work for you.
If the seller lied about having the same trans and rear as you thats a different story. But when you go aftermarket anything things dont always work right on each car.
You guys are all so silly.
I just took a 9 inch out of 1 Fbody and put it in another- th-400 in one t56 in the other, I took the driveshaft I had and got it reworked for length and yoke at a driveshaft shop, why would you buy a driveshaft from someone when yours will work ?
On a 9 inch note, I couldnt get the torque arm supplied from the other car to work on my car at all. Its just a BMR chassis mount arm, no way was it gonna work without modification - and I took it off the car myself.
-
If the seller lied about having the same trans and rear as you thats a different story. But when you go aftermarket anything things dont always work right on each car.
You guys are all so silly.
I just took a 9 inch out of 1 Fbody and put it in another- th-400 in one t56 in the other, I took the driveshaft I had and got it reworked for length and yoke at a driveshaft shop, why would you buy a driveshaft from someone when yours will work ?
On a 9 inch note, I couldnt get the torque arm supplied from the other car to work on my car at all. Its just a BMR chassis mount arm, no way was it gonna work without modification - and I took it off the car myself.
-
05-23-2010, 02:31 PM
#29
No comment on driveshaft transaction.
but, is wicked seriously the only one who knows that the rear is supposed to RISE at launch? Thats common knowledge! With proper LCA angle the rear should and will always rise on launch, NOT squat. A squatting rear on launch shows that you have incorrect rear suspension geometry and your car is bowing into the power rather than planting that power.
And the front rises too. The whole car seemingly jumps off the ground on a proper launch.
Not that it matters in relation to the driveshaft prob, this is not to say that the rear wont compress under normal driving situations however, such as hitting a bump in the road.
but, is wicked seriously the only one who knows that the rear is supposed to RISE at launch? Thats common knowledge! With proper LCA angle the rear should and will always rise on launch, NOT squat. A squatting rear on launch shows that you have incorrect rear suspension geometry and your car is bowing into the power rather than planting that power.
And the front rises too. The whole car seemingly jumps off the ground on a proper launch.
Not that it matters in relation to the driveshaft prob, this is not to say that the rear wont compress under normal driving situations however, such as hitting a bump in the road.
05-23-2010, 02:39 PM
#30
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Take a look at this and let me know what it looks like it's doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAr2l...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHbzr...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XttOe4rerLo
Just for fairness sake, the only ones i see lifting in the rear are Leaf spring cars wit caltracs, or lift action bars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rF7_j2vQUE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAr2l...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHbzr...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XttOe4rerLo
Just for fairness sake, the only ones i see lifting in the rear are Leaf spring cars wit caltracs, or lift action bars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rF7_j2vQUE
Last edited by djsanchez2; 05-23-2010 at 02:46 PM.
05-23-2010, 03:13 PM
#31
The fittment on my driveshaft was always tight and its 41.5" center to center, which is exactly what it should be for an M6/9" combo. No two cars are alike though.
That being said, mine is for sale Moe, its chromoly instead of aluminum but hit me up, since you need your car im sure we can work something out.
That being said, mine is for sale Moe, its chromoly instead of aluminum but hit me up, since you need your car im sure we can work something out.
05-23-2010, 03:33 PM
#32
Was the rear at full extension when you tried installing the shaft? This may be your issue, the DS length is properly measured/fitted with the car at ride height. With the rear hanging as it would be on a lift, it moves forward. If your working on jack stands under the frame rail, jack the rear housing untill the jack stands "unload" then test the DS fitment.
05-23-2010, 04:02 PM
#34
No comment on driveshaft transaction.
but, is wicked seriously the only one who knows that the rear is supposed to RISE at launch? Thats common knowledge! With proper LCA angle the rear should and will always rise on launch, NOT squat. A squatting rear on launch shows that you have incorrect rear suspension geometry and your car is bowing into the power rather than planting that power.
And the front rises too. The whole car seemingly jumps off the ground on a proper launch.
Not that it matters in relation to the driveshaft prob, this is not to say that the rear wont compress under normal driving situations however, such as hitting a bump in the road.
but, is wicked seriously the only one who knows that the rear is supposed to RISE at launch? Thats common knowledge! With proper LCA angle the rear should and will always rise on launch, NOT squat. A squatting rear on launch shows that you have incorrect rear suspension geometry and your car is bowing into the power rather than planting that power.
And the front rises too. The whole car seemingly jumps off the ground on a proper launch.
Not that it matters in relation to the driveshaft prob, this is not to say that the rear wont compress under normal driving situations however, such as hitting a bump in the road.
I know a few people who have verified this who have setup suspension on actual fast f bodies and other 9 second or faster cars.
05-23-2010, 05:05 PM
#35
Launching!
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Just my .02 cents...
He's right down the road 10 minutes. Why don't you just give him his money back, take back the driveshaft and sell it to someone else who's car it fits? Simple...
No need to bash each other on here...
But I must admit, I think it's pretty shady to sell someone a part on the assumption that it fits, then say FU when it doesn't, I'm keeping your money... that's just not right...
He's right down the road 10 minutes. Why don't you just give him his money back, take back the driveshaft and sell it to someone else who's car it fits? Simple...
No need to bash each other on here...
But I must admit, I think it's pretty shady to sell someone a part on the assumption that it fits, then say FU when it doesn't, I'm keeping your money... that's just not right...
Was the rear at full extension when you tried installing the shaft? This may be your issue, the DS length is properly measured/fitted with the car at ride height. With the rear hanging as it would be on a lift, it moves forward. If your working on jack stands under the frame rail, jack the rear housing untill the jack stands "unload" then test the DS fitment.
The car was on a lift that you drive the car onto thus the suspension was fully loaded. It was as if the car was on the ground. I knew that **** was wrong when I had to take the u joint caps off to clear the rear yoke.
Did the seller have the same style rear and tranny as you? Then the driveshaft should work or be very close to working. Its not the sellers fault if you purchased the item listed and it doesnt work for you.
If the seller lied about having the same trans and rear as you thats a different story. But when you go aftermarket anything things dont always work right on each car.
You guys are all so silly.
I just took a 9 inch out of 1 Fbody and put it in another- th-400 in one t56 in the other, I took the driveshaft I had and got it reworked for length and yoke at a driveshaft shop, why would you buy a driveshaft from someone when yours will work ?
On a 9 inch note, I couldnt get the torque arm supplied from the other car to work on my car at all. Its just a BMR chassis mount arm, no way was it gonna work without modification - and I took it off the car myself.
-
If the seller lied about having the same trans and rear as you thats a different story. But when you go aftermarket anything things dont always work right on each car.
You guys are all so silly.
I just took a 9 inch out of 1 Fbody and put it in another- th-400 in one t56 in the other, I took the driveshaft I had and got it reworked for length and yoke at a driveshaft shop, why would you buy a driveshaft from someone when yours will work ?
On a 9 inch note, I couldnt get the torque arm supplied from the other car to work on my car at all. Its just a BMR chassis mount arm, no way was it gonna work without modification - and I took it off the car myself.
-
No comment on driveshaft transaction.
but, is wicked seriously the only one who knows that the rear is supposed to RISE at launch? Thats common knowledge! With proper LCA angle the rear should and will always rise on launch, NOT squat. A squatting rear on launch shows that you have incorrect rear suspension geometry and your car is bowing into the power rather than planting that power.
And the front rises too. The whole car seemingly jumps off the ground on a proper launch.
Not that it matters in relation to the driveshaft prob, this is not to say that the rear wont compress under normal driving situations however, such as hitting a bump in the road.
but, is wicked seriously the only one who knows that the rear is supposed to RISE at launch? Thats common knowledge! With proper LCA angle the rear should and will always rise on launch, NOT squat. A squatting rear on launch shows that you have incorrect rear suspension geometry and your car is bowing into the power rather than planting that power.
And the front rises too. The whole car seemingly jumps off the ground on a proper launch.
Not that it matters in relation to the driveshaft prob, this is not to say that the rear wont compress under normal driving situations however, such as hitting a bump in the road.
Thank god I'm not wrong on that one or else me and my girlfriend would both look stupid.
The fittment on my driveshaft was always tight and its 41.5" center to center, which is exactly what it should be for an M6/9" combo. No two cars are alike though.
That being said, mine is for sale Moe, its chromoly instead of aluminum but hit me up, since you need your car im sure we can work something out.
That being said, mine is for sale Moe, its chromoly instead of aluminum but hit me up, since you need your car im sure we can work something out.
Aluminum, chromoly, or steel? What's the actual measurements center to center? Let me verify a few things and I'll get back to you.
05-23-2010, 05:31 PM
#36
I agree on the whole "no returns? BULLSHIT" ideals. I have no problem taking back parts and refunding money if a part does not work out for the person I sold it to, as long as the part comes back to me in the same condition that I sold it in.
On a side note, my car squats, and the LCAs and the panhard bar are level, on level ground, with the suspension under load (exhaust shop style lift). Here is a 1500 RPM test launch:
On a side note, my car squats, and the LCAs and the panhard bar are level, on level ground, with the suspension under load (exhaust shop style lift). Here is a 1500 RPM test launch:
05-23-2010, 05:34 PM
#37
That's exactly my point!
Yeah I know I was just pissed cuz I talked to him for a while on separate occasions and he came off as a cool guy so that's why I just wanted to let people know so the same thing doesn't happen to them.
The car was on a lift that you drive the car onto thus the suspension was fully loaded. It was as if the car was on the ground. I knew that **** was wrong when I had to take the u joint caps off to clear the rear yoke.
The problem is I'm a full time student until June 13, 2010. If I had bought everything new for my car I wouldn't have been able to afford paying for school and probably would have graduated in 2015 lol. I buy and sell parts from a bunch of guys on here all the time so I didn't think at least the local people are trying to shaft each other.
We both have ford 9" and supposedly he had a 6speed and was swapping in a th400. The issue is he stated it would fit my car and it didn't if he said he didn't know and I bought it on that basis then I'd bite the bullet. He also had incorrect information about a proper fitment, since he thinks that less than 1/4" gap between the trans and drive shaft bottoming out is a proper length.
I think you guys are the only ones. You are correct about the normal driving that's why I just go the car towed home.
Thank god I'm not wrong on that one or else me and my girlfriend would both look stupid.
Well the one I have is right about 42" another 1/2" of movement would be perfect for me. I took measurement when my car was on the lift with the suspension fully loaded so I'll verify the length it should be and let you know.
Aluminum, chromoly, or steel? What's the actual measurements center to center? Let me verify a few things and I'll get back to you.
Yeah I know I was just pissed cuz I talked to him for a while on separate occasions and he came off as a cool guy so that's why I just wanted to let people know so the same thing doesn't happen to them.
The car was on a lift that you drive the car onto thus the suspension was fully loaded. It was as if the car was on the ground. I knew that **** was wrong when I had to take the u joint caps off to clear the rear yoke.
The problem is I'm a full time student until June 13, 2010. If I had bought everything new for my car I wouldn't have been able to afford paying for school and probably would have graduated in 2015 lol. I buy and sell parts from a bunch of guys on here all the time so I didn't think at least the local people are trying to shaft each other.
We both have ford 9" and supposedly he had a 6speed and was swapping in a th400. The issue is he stated it would fit my car and it didn't if he said he didn't know and I bought it on that basis then I'd bite the bullet. He also had incorrect information about a proper fitment, since he thinks that less than 1/4" gap between the trans and drive shaft bottoming out is a proper length.
I think you guys are the only ones. You are correct about the normal driving that's why I just go the car towed home.
Thank god I'm not wrong on that one or else me and my girlfriend would both look stupid.
Well the one I have is right about 42" another 1/2" of movement would be perfect for me. I took measurement when my car was on the lift with the suspension fully loaded so I'll verify the length it should be and let you know.
Aluminum, chromoly, or steel? What's the actual measurements center to center? Let me verify a few things and I'll get back to you.
Missing a couple gears there? "T-56 4speed"
05-23-2010, 05:47 PM
#39
will was only running 10.40s cam only with some spray... in a full weight 6 speed at fontana where the DA was probably 4000. he doesn't know **** 
natural movement of the body is not downward, why would this be? oh there's weight transfer? well if you want to waste transferred weight into body movement of the car go ahead, if you want that transferred weight planting tires, the put antisquat in your rear suspension.
when power is applied, the rearend should be traveling towards the ground (pushing the tires into the racing surface). this does not change whether you're footbraking, launching, or going down the track. If the body of the car is not lifting, you don't have anti squat engineered in the rear suspension. This is NOT WHAT YOU WANT in your average <600 rwhp torque arm car.
There's a prostock video posted above, yea they squat because they're taking hit from the tire as to not go into tire shake, then again they cut <1.00 short times. With that huge tire they WANT WHEELSPEED.
Torque arm cars making big power often are trying to throw weight back into the FRONT of the car, this seems to contradict wanting the rear body of the car squatting on the rear suspension.
when power is applied, the rearend should be traveling towards the ground (pushing the tires into the racing surface). this does not change whether you're footbraking, launching, or going down the track. If the body of the car is not lifting, you don't have anti squat engineered in the rear suspension. This is NOT WHAT YOU WANT in your average <600 rwhp torque arm car.
There's a prostock video posted above, yea they squat because they're taking hit from the tire as to not go into tire shake, then again they cut <1.00 short times. With that huge tire they WANT WHEELSPEED.
Torque arm cars making big power often are trying to throw weight back into the FRONT of the car, this seems to contradict wanting the rear body of the car squatting on the rear suspension.