Anybody/shops out there who will remove VATS?
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So long story short, my VATS has been acting up the the point where the car no longer starts. CMS is too busy to do it, and I haven't found anyone local who will do it/believe it can be done. Basically, I just need the VATS system tuned out of the PCM...Any recommendations on a shop/person that could help me out with that would be greatly appreciated. I've been without my car/daily driver for over a week now and it's getting tough with school and work.
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im sure this will also apply to 4th gens
VATS bypass; is worth a try
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM
VATS bypass; is worth a try
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM
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I've been trying to find someone do it for over a week and half now. Called CMS, left two messages and never got a call back, only to find out they're backed up at least two weeks out, the dealerships/shops that i've called say it's impossible to do, and that i need to get a new ignition switch, keys, etc...
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shoot Tad an email, he has done all the tuning on my car in the last year. his email is protools4@aol.com. Tell him Jordan/SS4Luck refered you. Idk what he will charge you, but he was at my house the other day working on my stuff lol
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2002, just my luck...
Speaking of which:
Took in the car to a performance shop today that I won't name out of respect, and they charged me $115 to remove the VATS. I've had some work done by them in the past, and always got the feeling I was getting overcharged but nevertheless, for this problem, I just wanted it resolved. So their tech is explaining to me about the tune, and it's mostly a Ford shop mind you, so he explains that my VATS is different than Ford's PATS system. REgardless, he said he removed the VATS entirely, or switched it to "none", and sure enough, the car started up, no problems. Started it a couple times, everythignw as normal.
Got it home twenty minutes later, took a shower, I was in a hurry to work, and it didn't start at first. Tried it again, luckily it started. Then during my lunch break, I took the car, got food, and everything seemed fine. I get off work, and then thing won't start. I saw a red flashing light that I hadn't really noticed on before while I was trying to start it, and no matter what I did, wouldn't work. So twenty minutes later, I BARELY get the car started, with that light still flashing until half way home, when it goes off.
I got off work at 9:30 so I couldn't call the shop, which is why I want to give them the benefit of the doubt that they did it correctly. Anybody have ANY ideas of what could've happened? I'm stumped at this point, thought for sure VATS was the issue, and now I don't know what to think.
Speaking of which:
Took in the car to a performance shop today that I won't name out of respect, and they charged me $115 to remove the VATS. I've had some work done by them in the past, and always got the feeling I was getting overcharged but nevertheless, for this problem, I just wanted it resolved. So their tech is explaining to me about the tune, and it's mostly a Ford shop mind you, so he explains that my VATS is different than Ford's PATS system. REgardless, he said he removed the VATS entirely, or switched it to "none", and sure enough, the car started up, no problems. Started it a couple times, everythignw as normal.
Got it home twenty minutes later, took a shower, I was in a hurry to work, and it didn't start at first. Tried it again, luckily it started. Then during my lunch break, I took the car, got food, and everything seemed fine. I get off work, and then thing won't start. I saw a red flashing light that I hadn't really noticed on before while I was trying to start it, and no matter what I did, wouldn't work. So twenty minutes later, I BARELY get the car started, with that light still flashing until half way home, when it goes off.
I got off work at 9:30 so I couldn't call the shop, which is why I want to give them the benefit of the doubt that they did it correctly. Anybody have ANY ideas of what could've happened? I'm stumped at this point, thought for sure VATS was the issue, and now I don't know what to think.
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I could not find the thread for it here but this is the one I used for my 02 when I had my vats go out.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61262
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61262
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I could not find the thread for it here but this is the one I used for my 02 when I had my vats go out.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61262
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61262
Hmm...I wonder why the tune wouldn't have worked. Will that write-up work for an '02? I assume they're most likely all the same from '99 and on...
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VATS is a strange animal. I think it varies by year. My 99 VATS went out, and I swapped in an 00 steering column and key and it worked fine after that, didn't touch the BCM at all.
The resistor mod works, but I would cut and solder it in there properly to save any problems.
The resistor mod works, but I would cut and solder it in there properly to save any problems.
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So long story short, my VATS has been acting up the the point where the car no longer starts. CMS is too busy to do it, and I haven't found anyone local who will do it/believe it can be done. Basically, I just need the VATS system tuned out of the PCM...Any recommendations on a shop/person that could help me out with that would be greatly appreciated. I've been without my car/daily driver for over a week now and it's getting tough with school and work. ![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
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Ryne, if you see this, I'm on my way up to the shop. Called earlier and left a voicemail. JBA wanted to charge me another $115 to look at the car so I gave up on them.
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UPDATE:
Took the car to CMS. Found out VATS was indeed turned off by the original shop I took it too. Car started fine after driving it up from Del Mar to the CMS. Anybody have any suggestions?
Basically:
*Car doesn't start 9/10 times if it's sat for longer than 8 hours. When I do get it to start, it drives absolutely fine, and will start back up if I turn it off.
*Had the fuel pump/system tested, they said it was a consistent 55 psi and it was the sensor inside the ignition that I later learned to be VATS.
*Fuel filter was also replaced (minor)
Took the car to CMS. Found out VATS was indeed turned off by the original shop I took it too. Car started fine after driving it up from Del Mar to the CMS. Anybody have any suggestions?
Basically:
*Car doesn't start 9/10 times if it's sat for longer than 8 hours. When I do get it to start, it drives absolutely fine, and will start back up if I turn it off.
*Had the fuel pump/system tested, they said it was a consistent 55 psi and it was the sensor inside the ignition that I later learned to be VATS.
*Fuel filter was also replaced (minor)