NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

I posted this in the Manual trans section, but wanted to see if any locals to turlock could give me a hand, because i dont know what to do:

Ok guys, i need help fast as this is our only car right now. What should have been an easy clutch swap has turned into a complete nightmare!

I just installed an LS7 Clutch w/Aluminum flywheel into my wife's 00 WS.6, not my first time installing a clutch in an F-body, but this is by far the worst one yet!

Got it installed last night, didnt have my mity vac, so i was gonna bleed it the hard way, ended up dropping a socket into the bell

Tore it back down to get the socket, put it back together and old slave starts leaking.

Tear it down AGAIN, replaced slave with brand new slave, reassambled. Used the vac to completely bleed the system, pedal feels decent, but i dont know exactly what the LS7 is supposed to feel like.

Now it wont go into any gear while running. I started it up on stands, and it would shift but didnt appear to disengage all the way. Put it on the ground and it wont go into geat at all while running.

Did i torque something wrong? I used ARP bots for the flywheel and PP. Could that prevent me from going into gear?

PLEASE HELP!!

Raptor_WS6

iTrader: (23)

did you torq down right?

i didnt and same thing happen to me


pp bolts are 32 ft/lbs

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

I've never taken apart an LS1 clutch system. On my friends I-RocZ we had the same problem, we found that the fork was bent and pressure plate was bad. Did u put in the clutch the right way? Some put it in backwards

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

Every torque spec i could find on here has it listed as 52-55 ft/lbs in a star pattern. Thats how i torqued em.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

From the sounds of things its not completely bled, ive done a few clutch swaps and it takes quite a bit of bleeding.

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

Ive bled it 4 times, and im no longer getting any bubbles at all. I can defintily try it again. The pedal doesnt feel spongy at all.

TPI TERROR

iTrader: (52)

u should look into a remote speed bleeder.
im getting the same symptoms on my ls7 clutch going to drop the tranny soon and inspect it. i also heard its a good idea to add in a shim .

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

I know you probably didn't do it, but did you install the flush face of the clutch disk to the flywheel? I've seen people put the clutch disk on backwards and it causes that problem, pedal feels fine but it doesn't work. Get the back wheels off the ground and start it, see if it spins like crazy in neutral.

Ryne @ CMS

iTrader: (10)

well for starters you said its an LS7 clutch but did you use an ls7 flywheel? You have to use a LS2 flywheel with the LS7 disk and plate. If you do have the right flywheel did you put a shim behind the slave cylinder. The spacing isnt right for the LS2/LS7 clutch and you wont fully disengage the clutch without pushing the slave a little further out with a shim.

impstrz28

iTrader: (2)

I went through the exact thing. I used the ls7 clutch and flywheel, put adjustable Mc Leod master cylinder and used a remote bleeder and bled the **** out of it and clutch still wouldnt disengage. You need a spacer. I called spec clutches and talked to a tech support guy and told him my set up. They shipped me a spacer. I think its like 1/8 thickness, it was only like 5 or 10 bucks or something. The spacer goes behind the slave cylinder. Good luck man!

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

You can put it in backwards? You mean the raised portion of the hub goes towards the flywheel and not into the pressure plate? I wasnt sure it would even fit that way, I didnt get instructions..

I bought the LS7 Clutch kit with the Ram 2552 Aluminum flywheel and ARP bolts from Scoggin Dickey.. its listed as an LS2/3/7 flywheel.

Im getting different responses on the shim thing.

impstrz28

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I read different things too, but that is what worked for me. I bought slightly longer bolts to install the slave to compensate for the thickness of the spacer too. When I told the tech support guy from spec my set up he said a spacer was needed for that set up.

Raptor_WS6

iTrader: (23)

I didn't shim mine
stock master to

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I've got the same LS7 clutch/flywheel, except I installed a Tick adj. MC, and the remote bleeder, and no shim. I've had no problems at all with it.

ConElite

iTrader: (6)

I have had my LS6 Clutch/LS2 Flywheel, removed my Remote bleeder, Seemed like it caused more issues with bleeding and No Shim i beliveve and after install, just pumped the clutch none stop for about 10 minutes. NO BLEEDING or anything and pedal came up nicely.

going on 4 years never bled once and pedal has never stuck to the ground.

Just pump the **** out of ur pedal.

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

^^^ I helped him with his T56 when it had the exact same problem. Wouldn't shift into gear ONLY when running. Replaced pilot bearing, slave cylinder, bled with MityVac, disassembled and reassembled 4+ times, NO SHIM. On last reassembly we torqued everything to the GM torque specs and it worked like a charm.

The pedal came up nicely all the time after it was bled (and still not working) and didn't get stuck, but it still had the issue. Looking back, if it was air in the system, wouldn't the pedal stay stuck in the down position?

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

Everything was torqued to spec. brand new slave, disc in the correct way. I will attempt to bleed it with the bleeder screw tomaro, instead of the vac, but the pedal feels really good. I also have a Tick Master coming as well.