*UPDATE* END RESULT :( Anyone ever seen wear/damage like this?
#21
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holy crap thats terrible. Ive taken apart motors with 100k miles that have moly coated skirts, and ive never seen any that bad.
the crank has definitely been messed with. my guess is that someone messed up the crank before, had it remachined and rebalanced (crappily). then it was put in your motor with probably wayy too much tolerance in the bearings due to the undersized journals. i would bet every tolerance in the whole motor is off. looks like someone just bolted parts together and didnt measure anything.
i dont think the skirt wear is due to a lack of oil pressure... the pistons & skirts are lubricated by the oil being slung off the crankshaft, which requires no oil pressure
hopefully you can get this resolved, if you just paid cash for an under-the-table deal it might be hard to take any legal action, but good luck
the crank has definitely been messed with. my guess is that someone messed up the crank before, had it remachined and rebalanced (crappily). then it was put in your motor with probably wayy too much tolerance in the bearings due to the undersized journals. i would bet every tolerance in the whole motor is off. looks like someone just bolted parts together and didnt measure anything.
i dont think the skirt wear is due to a lack of oil pressure... the pistons & skirts are lubricated by the oil being slung off the crankshaft, which requires no oil pressure
hopefully you can get this resolved, if you just paid cash for an under-the-table deal it might be hard to take any legal action, but good luck
#22
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I have seen wear like that on the skirts of the pistons but it seems to not be as consistent... check the bore size vs the size of the pistons and tell us what the tolerance is... I'll be able to tell you whether or not the bore is to large. It seems like thats what the problem would be... I have coated pistons which wear almost the same way but they are very consistent with the wear not thick wear in the middle light else where... Also what was this motor used for? nitrous blower turbo? makes a big difference on what the pistons to wall clearance should be... Sloppy is not always bad... also have you played with the rings at all? like spinning them around? cause if you haven't on one of the pistons they were not right... they should be 180 from each other... as far as the bearings thats another issue... pictures of the crank? the bearings are toast all of them... can you run your finger nail across any of them with out being stopped by wear? also any marks on the cylinders that stop your from going up and down or side to side?Another thing is there any discoloration to the rods? where they connect to the crank...
Im going to barrow a neighbors snap gauges and dial indicator tomorrow and measure bore vs piston size. Motor was run n/a and built to run n/a. I didnt touch the rings, i pulled them out of the motor and snapped pictures of them first thing. my fingers might have pushed them a few degrees off, but not more than 15*. My flywheel is stuck to the rear of the crank so im going to massage it off tomorrow so i can pull the rear main seal and the last main cap and get the crank out of the motor. There are noticable grooves across all the bearings when run across then with you fingers as well as side to side around the sleeves. I chew my finger nails so there isnt much to actually get caught in a groove but they are all shot and well grooved. There wasnt any noticable discoloration around the rods where they are at the crank, but EVERY rod is blue/red/purple around the wristpin
holy crap thats terrible. Ive taken apart motors with 100k miles that have moly coated skirts, and ive never seen any that bad.
the crank has definitely been messed with. my guess is that someone messed up the crank before, had it remachined and rebalanced (crappily). then it was put in your motor with probably wayy too much tolerance in the bearings due to the undersized journals. i would bet every tolerance in the whole motor is off. looks like someone just bolted parts together and didnt measure anything.
i dont think the skirt wear is due to a lack of oil pressure... the pistons & skirts are lubricated by the oil being slung off the crankshaft, which requires no oil pressure
hopefully you can get this resolved, if you just paid cash for an under-the-table deal it might be hard to take any legal action, but good luck
the crank has definitely been messed with. my guess is that someone messed up the crank before, had it remachined and rebalanced (crappily). then it was put in your motor with probably wayy too much tolerance in the bearings due to the undersized journals. i would bet every tolerance in the whole motor is off. looks like someone just bolted parts together and didnt measure anything.
i dont think the skirt wear is due to a lack of oil pressure... the pistons & skirts are lubricated by the oil being slung off the crankshaft, which requires no oil pressure
hopefully you can get this resolved, if you just paid cash for an under-the-table deal it might be hard to take any legal action, but good luck
I know the oil pump was working and doing just fine. Im running a mechanical gauge in the stock oil gauge location and new exactly what was going on at all times. I had a motor fail in an old sbc due to a bad oil pump so i WONT run a high performance motor without a mechanical oil gauge
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damn i havent logged on here in forever...
what does the screen on the oil pickup look like? as well as the oil filter? cuz that engine has had a fair aount of debris go through it.
hypereutectic material doesnt expand nearly as much as a forged piston, so they tend to run tighter clearances (not tolerances guys - tolerance is an acceptable range, not a set clearance spec.).
when you see heavy wear right in the center of a skirt like that, it means the piston has made contact with the cylinder wall. could be too tight a clearance, could have overheated, or a combo of both.
when the piston rocks you will see the most wear on the edges of the skirt. also with hypers if the clearance is set too loose you will hear piston slap like a muth on cold starts and even to operating temps.
usually loose clearance doesnt damage pistons like that anyway.\
plus the fact that the wear is not consistent throughout the engine...looks like shoddy work. (look at that crank "balancing" for instance)
in the future if your gonna use a shelf piston for NA application, you can go with the thinner 1.3mm top ring.
what does the screen on the oil pickup look like? as well as the oil filter? cuz that engine has had a fair aount of debris go through it.
hypereutectic material doesnt expand nearly as much as a forged piston, so they tend to run tighter clearances (not tolerances guys - tolerance is an acceptable range, not a set clearance spec.).
when you see heavy wear right in the center of a skirt like that, it means the piston has made contact with the cylinder wall. could be too tight a clearance, could have overheated, or a combo of both.
when the piston rocks you will see the most wear on the edges of the skirt. also with hypers if the clearance is set too loose you will hear piston slap like a muth on cold starts and even to operating temps.
usually loose clearance doesnt damage pistons like that anyway.\
plus the fact that the wear is not consistent throughout the engine...looks like shoddy work. (look at that crank "balancing" for instance)
in the future if your gonna use a shelf piston for NA application, you can go with the thinner 1.3mm top ring.
#26
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I might would suggest deleting this thread and contacting the shop first. See what there response is, then possibly go from there and make a thread pertaining to the result of how they plan on handling it. I've seen it too many times, a thread like this pops up then the shop gets pissed they weren't contacted first, and it's pretty much down hill from there.
just a suggestion...
although I must say, I'm curious to know which shop it is...
just a suggestion...
although I must say, I'm curious to know which shop it is...
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all involved parties have been informed and wish to remain nameless until a resolution is agreed upon. Once something has been agreed upon names and full situations will be unveiled
#29
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I might would suggest deleting this thread and contacting the shop first. See what there response is, then possibly go from there and make a thread pertaining to the result of how they plan on handling it. I've seen it too many times, a thread like this pops up then the shop gets pissed they weren't contacted first, and it's pretty much down hill from there.
just a suggestion...
although I must say, I'm curious to know which shop it is...
just a suggestion...
although I must say, I'm curious to know which shop it is...
#31
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I can understand the shop getting mad over a thread like this if the parts that were paid for were actually installed and somehow a manufacturing flaw or simple install error occured. But when you basically rip off a customer by charging him for expensive parts and installing cheaper part and doing shoddy machine work on top of it all, they take the risk of exposing their actions and they should be exposed for all to see...
Not saying he didn't call the shop before hand... just giving a word of caution that's all.
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#32
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I don't disagree with you. In the end, if you pay for something and don't recieve it, shame on the business in question. I'm just saying to be careful posting stuff like this. So many times I've seen on here the customer reacting out of initial emotion, when a simple phone call could have solved the problem. But at that point, it's too late and the damage has been done...
Not saying he didn't call the shop before hand... just giving a word of caution that's all.![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
Not saying he didn't call the shop before hand... just giving a word of caution that's all.
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
Update on the situation is as goes. The builder said he does not remember ever being ordered to put a forged bottom end in. When looking on my invoice the "motor rebuild kit" which in description says "crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings" is 2986.99. Which coincidently is MORE expensive then a fully completely bullet proofed forged bottom end lol. (and yes i am aware i got completely hosed for pricing/parts even if i would have gotten what i asked for) The invoice continues to say ARP main kit (stock hardware) katech oil pump (ported and shimmed texas speed unit) darton sleeves (i highly doubt) ls2 timing chain (looks a little small to be an LS2). So needless to say this guy fucked me without any lube. But the initial corvette shop is standing up and offering to fix the situation and go after the other dude later.
New motor being built by thunder in the works
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#33
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So to end this situation.
So to make it short invoices didnt match up. We were told what we were getting and aparently someone thought that all that was not necessary and we didnt recieve the parts we asked for, because somewhere there was a "miscommunication" They really could give a **** about us wanting forged parts and getting stock ****. We were told they were carillo rods that were put in but they were cheap and only rated for 500hp anyway. It was a shitty situation and i completely got fucked. The corvette shop is a great shop and usually bends over backward to take care of the customers but isnt really this time. We were told if we wanted to get a new motor through them they would help us with pricing, but no way in hell would i want whoever put that last motor together ever breathing in the general direction of another motor going into my car.
I now have a rolling chassis that is worth **** and no money for a new motor.
So to make it short invoices didnt match up. We were told what we were getting and aparently someone thought that all that was not necessary and we didnt recieve the parts we asked for, because somewhere there was a "miscommunication" They really could give a **** about us wanting forged parts and getting stock ****. We were told they were carillo rods that were put in but they were cheap and only rated for 500hp anyway. It was a shitty situation and i completely got fucked. The corvette shop is a great shop and usually bends over backward to take care of the customers but isnt really this time. We were told if we wanted to get a new motor through them they would help us with pricing, but no way in hell would i want whoever put that last motor together ever breathing in the general direction of another motor going into my car.
I now have a rolling chassis that is worth **** and no money for a new motor.
Last edited by SS4Luck; 02-03-2011 at 04:00 AM.
#34
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^^^ Holy **** dude that ******* sucks!!! Sorry to see that happen to a fellow tech member, or anyone for that matter.
Might as well reveal the names of both the Corvette shop and the engine builder so we know who to steer clear of in the future.
Might as well reveal the names of both the Corvette shop and the engine builder so we know who to steer clear of in the future.
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you guys beat me to it lol. I have the name of the shop on the invoice but i dont have it in my room ill get it asap tomorrow morning or if i go outside to have a cigarette (the invoice is out in my car)
The corvette shop is Corvette Mikes. They have always been an amazing shop and me nor my old man have EVER had a problem with them. They are the bend over backward to make sure your happy and stand behind their work place. Its really the engine builder that fucked us, they were the middle man and just happen to have a shitty engine builder
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You are a bigger man than I. my buddy mr. eagle (desert eagle) would have shown up to the meeting with them to ensure it got fixed or someone paid for what they did. I am upset about it and its not even my car. I am sorry bud.