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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 12:51 AM
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Here is a small writeup I did with the pics I found in my computer. It's an 8.8 but It might help you if you decide to do it with some friends.

Pull axles out and then pull axle bearings out with slide hammer




Drive new bearings in and new seals



Remove carrier but mark the caps to original location first, Remember what side the shims came from unless you need your backlash adjusted.



I suggest removing the ring gear and checking for run-out before removing carrier bearings.






Remove carrier's bearings and press new ones in





Remove pinion and use a bearing splitter to remove bearing, Discard crush sleeve but try not to damage the pinion depth shim you will reuse it with the new bearing. Press new pinion bearing in.




Remove bearing's race from the housing



Install new races for pinion bearings in housing





Install rear pinion bearing and oil slinger.



Then new seal




Install new crush sleeve on pinion and a new pinion nut. Slowly torque to crush the sleeve until you feel some drag on the pinion bearing. Check bearing per-load with inch pound dial type torque wrench and crush the sleeve till it meets specs.

Reinstall carrier and reinstall the shims to original location unless you need to adjust the backlash to specs then add and subtract shims depending on needs. Torque caps to spec, Reinstall axles and you know the rest.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 01:00 AM
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Then you install a turbo kit push 10 psi and break it
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 01:07 AM
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Then you realize that you need a 12 bolt, 9" or 8.8 rear instead of cheaping out on the weakest link of the 4th gen.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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I think Keliente has a pictorial on her site too.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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nice write up
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 06:17 PM
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Here's Keliente's link. Between the both of these, you should know whether you want to try it or not.

http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
Here's Keliente's link. Between the both of these, you should know whether you want to try it or not.

http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm
I used this for my last gear install.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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Looked relatively easy until I got to the "I suggest removing the ring gear and checking for run-out before removing carrier bearings." part.

... like I said, I want somebody else to do it. lol.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ZexGX
Looked relatively easy until I got to the "I suggest removing the ring gear and checking for run-out before removing carrier bearings." part.

... like I said, I want somebody else to do it. lol.
Adam, ROCNDAV and I believe in you Lee. The run out part is just to check the carrier for warpage. I do it every time because it could cause vibration if warped and only takes an additional 15 min.

I think you should do it, because it's easy and saves you money on labor. It's not worth paying labor for a 10 bolt.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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And it can be done with floor jacks just as easy. I only had the rear out because I bought a housing and built it before I installed it.

Here is the hard parts














Last edited by XpEdItIoUs; Nov 11, 2011 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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Bump for Lee, you know you want to do it yourself.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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No, not really. That's why I made a thread asking for shops that can do it for me.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 12:47 PM
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http://www.hark.com/clips/htclfrhbfp-you-can-do-it
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 03:08 PM
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 06:24 PM
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^^^^

lol
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