XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

Here is a small writeup I did with the pics I found in my computer. It's an 8.8 but It might help you if you decide to do it with some friends.

Pull axles out and then pull axle bearings out with slide hammer




Drive new bearings in and new seals



Remove carrier but mark the caps to original location first, Remember what side the shims came from unless you need your backlash adjusted.



I suggest removing the ring gear and checking for run-out before removing carrier bearings.






Remove carrier's bearings and press new ones in





Remove pinion and use a bearing splitter to remove bearing, Discard crush sleeve but try not to damage the pinion depth shim you will reuse it with the new bearing. Press new pinion bearing in.




Remove bearing's race from the housing



Install new races for pinion bearings in housing





Install rear pinion bearing and oil slinger.



Then new seal




Install new crush sleeve on pinion and a new pinion nut. Slowly torque to crush the sleeve until you feel some drag on the pinion bearing. Check bearing per-load with inch pound dial type torque wrench and crush the sleeve till it meets specs.

Reinstall carrier and reinstall the shims to original location unless you need to adjust the backlash to specs then add and subtract shims depending on needs. Torque caps to spec, Reinstall axles and you know the rest.

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

Then you install a turbo kit push 10 psi and break it

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

Then you realize that you need a 12 bolt, 9" or 8.8 rear instead of cheaping out on the weakest link of the 4th gen.

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

I think Keliente has a pictorial on her site too.

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

nice write up

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Here's Keliente's link. Between the both of these, you should know whether you want to try it or not.

http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm

LS1Adam84

iTrader: (21)

I used this for my last gear install.

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

Looked relatively easy until I got to the "I suggest removing the ring gear and checking for run-out before removing carrier bearings." part.

... like I said, I want somebody else to do it. lol.

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

Adam, ROCNDAV and I believe in you Lee. The run out part is just to check the carrier for warpage. I do it every time because it could cause vibration if warped and only takes an additional 15 min.

I think you should do it, because it's easy and saves you money on labor. It's not worth paying labor for a 10 bolt.

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

And it can be done with floor jacks just as easy. I only had the rear out because I bought a housing and built it before I installed it.

Here is the hard parts

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

Bump for Lee, you know you want to do it yourself.

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

No, not really. That's why I made a thread asking for shops that can do it for me.

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

http://www.hark.com/clips/htclfrhbfp-you-can-do-it

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

HEYPAL01impala

^^^^

lol