CA smog legal build possible?
#22
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
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I've played with lots of numbers and think I've figured out the best option for the most power. Stock cubed LS1, AFR 215, forged internals, studs top and bottom, LS6 intake, shorty headers, port stock TB, Procharger D1R, front mount intercooler, custom grind cam (PM if you want the numbers, took 2 days to get it right)....supporting parts (injectors, oil pump, etc). At 14psi rwhp should be around 650, if my math is correct at least. If you set the compression ratio correctly I've seen 22psi on a similar setup, around 800rwhp. With that setup anything 2000 and newer should pass cleanly...so says a few smog guys and a ref.
#23
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I've played with lots of numbers and think I've figured out the best option for the most power. Stock cubed LS1, AFR 215, forged internals, studs top and bottom, LS6 intake, shorty headers, port stock TB, Procharger D1R, front mount intercooler, custom grind cam (PM if you want the numbers, took 2 days to get it right)....supporting parts (injectors, oil pump, etc). At 14psi rwhp should be around 650, if my math is correct at least. If you set the compression ratio correctly I've seen 22psi on a similar setup, around 800rwhp. With that setup anything 2000 and newer should pass cleanly...so says a few smog guys and a ref.
#24
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The D1R has an EO# for the F-Body. The R stands for reverse direction, specific to the F-Body. Talked to Procharger dealer in Stockton and he can get replacement plates for the D1 and the P1. Units are much cheaper when bought individually and used. Key points to pushing high boost levels are pinning the harmonic balancer and get the Aster bracket.
#25
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The D1R has an EO# for the F-Body. The R stands for reverse direction, specific to the F-Body. Talked to Procharger dealer in Stockton and he can get replacement plates for the D1 and the P1. Units are much cheaper when bought individually and used. Key points to pushing high boost levels are pinning the harmonic balancer and get the Aster bracket.
Based on my own research then, I completely agree with bkbailey85's build, I think with the right cam you would definitely make some really good numbers while still being completely CARB legal.
#26
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Great suggestion, I was considering what route I was gonna go for my engine build. This looks like it'll work for me too.
You'll have to step up your rear end to handle this though. HP's worthless if your car doesn't move.
Unless were only discussing engine and not other things. If this is the case, ignore this lol
You'll have to step up your rear end to handle this though. HP's worthless if your car doesn't move.
Unless were only discussing engine and not other things. If this is the case, ignore this lol
#27
12 Second Club
iTrader: (28)
I did a smog-passable NA forged build with the intention of strapping a blower on (dished pistons, milled stock heads). Made 355/350 through a stalled auto and stock cats. More info here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/dyno-gues...d-results.html
Passed smog just like a stock LS1. Main bearings went out before I had a chance to put the blower on.
The stock shorty style exhaust and stock cats were choking it. You'll get good smog-legal (CARB# anyways) results with a P1SC kit, or if you're willing to do a major swap, an LS3 E-ROD kit will be best, as those have a CARB EO #.
I don't agree with the above claim that the D1 has an EO # for our application. The P1 does. If the D1 has an EO # specifically citing LS1 F-bodies, please post the number so it can be verified.
Passed smog just like a stock LS1. Main bearings went out before I had a chance to put the blower on.
The stock shorty style exhaust and stock cats were choking it. You'll get good smog-legal (CARB# anyways) results with a P1SC kit, or if you're willing to do a major swap, an LS3 E-ROD kit will be best, as those have a CARB EO #.
I don't agree with the above claim that the D1 has an EO # for our application. The P1 does. If the D1 has an EO # specifically citing LS1 F-bodies, please post the number so it can be verified.
Last edited by ZexGX; 05-12-2015 at 03:30 PM.
#31
12 Second Club
iTrader: (28)
If you need a legitimate EO #, you'll have to use the JBAs, since you have a 99. Edelbrock makes LS1 F-body shorties but they are only for 00-02 (no EGR provision). BBK and others make them for 99's but they don't have EO #s. Maybe the newer or other sets don't have welding slag. Maybe they had an intern/apprentice welding up the headers the day they made mine. Not too big of a deal to me as I was able to clean them up with grinding/cutting bits, but definitely worth mentioning.
Last edited by ZexGX; 05-13-2015 at 03:42 PM.