Where to tune in Central/Southern Cali.
#21
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Originally Posted by NICKZ28
I just worked on a car that had a VERY expensive race-prep tune in it. We put a new trans in it and took it out to the track the next day. This car has the potential to run 11.5xx-11.6xx, but the shift points were jacked up. It ran 12.2xx b/c the driver had to completely lift off the gas to shift 2-3. It would bounce off the limiter. We even called them a couple days later and all they could say was "bring it in, we'll fix it", when it should've been fixed the first time. If they do such a good job, it should've never been an issue.
Funny, we have had a few cars with NOTING more than a 3000 stall, a lid longtubes and a tune go many 12.6's at CA Speedway, (crappiest track prep in the state!) with NO shifting issues. I think you need to look into either how the trans is setup or what you changed to make it act funny. We have NEVER let a car go out the door with the customer unhappy, in fact we have stayed until 3AM before making sure it was right for more than one person. I can say this, if you have a problem with something....Bring it to us to get looked at! I have no problem standing behind our work. Honestly though, a tune does not change, if it worked when it left the building, it would still be working now unless you changed something....
-Bryan
#22
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Originally Posted by Race-Prep
Funny, we have had a few cars with NOTING more than a 3000 stall, a lid longtubes and a tune go many 12.6's at CA Speedway, (crappiest track prep in the state!) with NO shifting issues. I think you need to look into either how the trans is setup or what you changed to make it act funny. We have NEVER let a car go out the door with the customer unhappy, in fact we have stayed until 3AM before making sure it was right for more than one person. I can say this, if you have a problem with something....Bring it to us to get looked at! I have no problem standing behind our work. Honestly though, a tune does not change, if it worked when it left the building, it would still be working now unless you changed something....
-Bryan
-Bryan
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Last I checked LACR is 2700' real elevation, DA is calculated through current atmospheric conditions at the time of racing. That being said, I have drag raced at Famoso, LACR, Pomona, and Carlsbad. NA I saw about .5-.7 ET difference and 5-6mph difference between LACR and Carlsbad (300' real elevation).
Thats about on par with the differance between actual elevation, regardless of the actual DA.
Thats about on par with the differance between actual elevation, regardless of the actual DA.
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Originally Posted by NICKZ28
Funny you say that. B/c the invoice from the tune included driveability & idle. It didnt idle for ****. And the driveability wasnt there. The cam wasnt even that big. Btw, we didnt change anything. I probably would have had better luck tuning it myself. Oh yeah...12.6x w/ LT's and a converter is kinda sad. My set-up went 12.22 @ 110 on a street legal day @ CA speedway.
-Bryan
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Originally Posted by Race-Prep
If there is a problem with a tune, (which I doubt very much) it is the customers responsibility to come back and have it fixed. If you don't bring it back, how can we fix the problem?? In my opinion, that leaves the ball in your court wouldn't you say??
-Bryan
-Bryan
List prices for LS1 & LT1 cars
Price for stock
Price for a full bolt on
Price for a full bolt on car with heads and cam
Price with full bolt ons, heads, cam and either Nitrous, superchager or turbo.
Also what about a vehicle that has been tuned alrady but just added something and whats to get it checked and any adjustments it may need.
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I've called everywhere and have been quoted 500-800 for a tune. I'll have the following mods: trex cam prc valvesprings, etc. ported tb, asp pulley, jtr longtubes and intake, cutout (this will be on a 94 rx-7) which will all be run on hptuners.
Is it possible to street tune myself? I will have a wideband commander installed along with my hptuners? Anyone have a bin file for a trex cam? Im willing to pay just as long as its not going to set me back 500. hahaha
Is it possible to street tune myself? I will have a wideband commander installed along with my hptuners? Anyone have a bin file for a trex cam? Im willing to pay just as long as its not going to set me back 500. hahaha
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Originally Posted by 1 BLOWN V8
I keep hearing all kinds of prices on what you charge to tune a car. So just to set the record straght post up some prices. I hear you charge up to $800.00.
List prices for LS1 & LT1 cars
Price for stock
Price for a full bolt on
Price for a full bolt on car with heads and cam
Price with full bolt ons, heads, cam and either Nitrous, superchager or turbo.
Also what about a vehicle that has been tuned alrady but just added something and whats to get it checked and any adjustments it may need.
List prices for LS1 & LT1 cars
Price for stock
Price for a full bolt on
Price for a full bolt on car with heads and cam
Price with full bolt ons, heads, cam and either Nitrous, superchager or turbo.
Also what about a vehicle that has been tuned alrady but just added something and whats to get it checked and any adjustments it may need.
**Price for anything, less internals, (Bolt on tune) = $400.00 including dyno and tuner time for up to a half day.
**Price for any internals like cam, porting, etc. and any power adder (Full tune)= $800.00 including dyno and tuner time for up to a full day.
As for touch ups, once you tune with us and you would like to change something we simply charge an hourly rate to make the adjustment $80.00/hr. and most touch ups don't take much time at all unless you make a drastic change like add a blower or something. All work is done using HP tuners.
Thanks for the interest.
-Bryan
#28
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Originally Posted by Race-Prep
If there is a problem with a tune, (which I doubt very much) it is the customers responsibility to come back and have it fixed. If you don't bring it back, how can we fix the problem?? In my opinion, that leaves the ball in your court wouldn't you say??
-Bryan
-Bryan
Btw...how is it you get 12.6x out of a tuned LS1 w/ LT's, converter and whatever else you said? My slowmaro runs 12.1xx @ 110-111mph through the stock manifolds
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This car went 12.6 with NOTHING more than Pacetter long tubes (MAYBE 10RWHP on a stock engine) and a lid and our tune, This thing is stock! It only 60'd like a 1.8 and has stock 3.42 gears! I have been to Cali speedway MANY times and I have NEVER seen someone with a nearly stock camaro run 12.6's or even 12 anything's there. I really don't understand your thinking, not to mention how do you figure the tune changed? There has never been a car that has left our hands that did not run correctly. Wouldn't you think the owner would tell us it was bad before he left? I really think he would...
-Bryan
-Bryan
Last edited by Race-Prep; 11-29-2005 at 12:41 PM.
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By the way, how do you figure your stock engine is pushing 111.4 MPH with a converter and gears? You think that you are making 400RWHP? Because that is what it would take to push a 3700lb vehicle and driver to that MPH so I am VERY confident you did not run that E.T. at Ca Speedway with a stock engine and stock exhaust at 2000+physical elevation+weather without a power adder or internal mods. Also, with reguard to the actual owner of this car with the supposed problem, again we would be happy to fix the problem anytime. Please feel free to bring us the car and we will take care of it gladly. We do not, and have not, burnt any of our customers.
-Bryan
-Bryan
#31
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Originally Posted by Race-Prep
By the way, how do you figure your stock engine is pushing 111.4 MPH with a converter and gears? You think that you are making 400RWHP? Because that is what it would take to push a 3700lb vehicle and driver to that MPH so I am VERY confident you did not run that E.T. at Ca Speedway with a stock engine and stock exhaust at 2000+physical elevation+weather without a power adder or internal mods. Also, with reguard to the actual owner of this car with the supposed problem, again we would be happy to fix the problem anytime. Please feel free to bring us the car and we will take care of it gladly. We do not, and have not, burnt any of our customers.
-Bryan
-Bryan
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We will be there watching some friends so we will come see you for sure. What does your car weigh? I would assume it is VERY light then as the car I was speaking of is full weight down to the spare tire and jack. I don't doubt your cars potential only the way you achieve it, I have seen quite a few cars come through our doors, and not one, even cars other people built has EVER laid down 400RWHP from an engine setup like yours, so you either have a VERY light car or you got a freak, or you are lying about being stock. None of these things has anything to do with our ability to produce a great running car, watch the others there you might see one or two even get in the 12's and most of those are running Spray. Our cars run extremely good for what they have on them.
-Bryan
-Bryan
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**Price for any internals like cam, porting, etc. and any power adder (Full tune)= $800.00 including dyno and tuner time for up to a full day.
I just talked to Rob at Strictly Performance.
Cam only car with all bolt ons with a nitrous tune is only 400 + dyno time which is about an hour.
#34
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Originally Posted by Race-Prep
We will be there watching some friends so we will come see you for sure. What does your car weigh? I would assume it is VERY light then as the car I was speaking of is full weight down to the spare tire and jack. I don't doubt your cars potential only the way you achieve it, I have seen quite a few cars come through our doors, and not one, even cars other people built has EVER laid down 400RWHP from an engine setup like yours, so you either have a VERY light car or you got a freak, or you are lying about being stock. None of these things has anything to do with our ability to produce a great running car, watch the others there you might see one or two even get in the 12's and most of those are running Spray. Our cars run extremely good for what they have on them.
-Bryan
-Bryan
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The 400RWHP statement is reguarding what it takes to push a 3700lb car to 111ish MPH, most F-Bodies weigh around that much. Its simple physics, unless your car is very light you will need about 400RWHP to go as fast as you claim and your mods will not support that much RWHP unless your car is a freak, so if so congrats on a very good runner!
-Bryan
-Bryan
#36
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Originally Posted by Race-Prep
The 400RWHP statement is reguarding what it takes to push a 3700lb car to 111ish MPH, most F-Bodies weigh around that much. Its simple physics, unless your car is very light you will need about 400RWHP to go as fast as you claim and your mods will not support that much RWHP unless your car is a freak, so if so congrats on a very good runner!
-Bryan
-Bryan
#37
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Race prep,
I thought you said a S/I LS1 couldnt do this....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/12-second-club/415788-12-s-while.html
and, what about all these?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-results/273788-quickest-stock-internals-list-11-82-bump.html
I thought you said a S/I LS1 couldnt do this....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/12-second-club/415788-12-s-while.html
and, what about all these?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-results/273788-quickest-stock-internals-list-11-82-bump.html
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60’ - 1.654
330’ - 4.938
1/8 - 7.733
MPH - 88.23
1000 – 10.123
1/4 – 12.136
MPH – 112.30
(link to timeslip)
Current best at an 1/8-mile track is 7.712 @ 88.27
Mods are basic bolt-ons: Lid, 3200 stall converter, Strange rear w/ 4.10 gears, QTP long-tube headers, underdrive pulley, LCA’s, ET Streets.
The difference is, your car has no exhaust, less gear, no underdrive pulley, etc. and I would bet this is not at California Speedway either...
-Bryan
330’ - 4.938
1/8 - 7.733
MPH - 88.23
1000 – 10.123
1/4 – 12.136
MPH – 112.30
(link to timeslip)
Current best at an 1/8-mile track is 7.712 @ 88.27
Mods are basic bolt-ons: Lid, 3200 stall converter, Strange rear w/ 4.10 gears, QTP long-tube headers, underdrive pulley, LCA’s, ET Streets.
The difference is, your car has no exhaust, less gear, no underdrive pulley, etc. and I would bet this is not at California Speedway either...
-Bryan
#39
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Originally Posted by Race-Prep
60’ - 1.654
330’ - 4.938
1/8 - 7.733
MPH - 88.23
1000 – 10.123
1/4 – 12.136
MPH – 112.30
(link to timeslip)
Current best at an 1/8-mile track is 7.712 @ 88.27
Mods are basic bolt-ons: Lid, 3200 stall converter, Strange rear w/ 4.10 gears, QTP long-tube headers, underdrive pulley, LCA’s, ET Streets.
The difference is, your car has no exhaust, less gear, no underdrive pulley, etc. and I would bet this is not at California Speedway either...
-Bryan
330’ - 4.938
1/8 - 7.733
MPH - 88.23
1000 – 10.123
1/4 – 12.136
MPH – 112.30
(link to timeslip)
Current best at an 1/8-mile track is 7.712 @ 88.27
Mods are basic bolt-ons: Lid, 3200 stall converter, Strange rear w/ 4.10 gears, QTP long-tube headers, underdrive pulley, LCA’s, ET Streets.
The difference is, your car has no exhaust, less gear, no underdrive pulley, etc. and I would bet this is not at California Speedway either...
-Bryan