what cam do you reconmend me guy for my third gen
08-13-2008, 02:52 PM
#41
Ls1/T56 with tranny can be found for anywhere from $2500 to $5500 right now..
Basically what you would need:
1.Aftermarket k-member or notched stock k-member.
2.The computer/wiring/accesories/etc
3.Different tranny mounts
4.Your thirdgen headers will not work so you would need ls1 swap headers that are made for thirdgens (hawksthirdgenparts.com)
5.Many hours of wrenching, frustration, and down time (you would need another car during this period)
6.I'm sure theres is more im forgetting.
You also have to remember that if you did the t56 swap you would need to factor in the cost of the pedal setup, shorter driveshaft, and modifying the tranny tunnel.
Basically what you would need:
1.Aftermarket k-member or notched stock k-member.
2.The computer/wiring/accesories/etc
3.Different tranny mounts
4.Your thirdgen headers will not work so you would need ls1 swap headers that are made for thirdgens (hawksthirdgenparts.com)
5.Many hours of wrenching, frustration, and down time (you would need another car during this period)
6.I'm sure theres is more im forgetting.
You also have to remember that if you did the t56 swap you would need to factor in the cost of the pedal setup, shorter driveshaft, and modifying the tranny tunnel.
damnnn
08-13-2008, 03:13 PM
#43
Ls1/T56 with tranny can be found for anywhere from $2500 to $5500 right now..
Basically what you would need:
1.Aftermarket k-member or notched stock k-member.
2.The computer/wiring/accesories/etc
3.Different tranny mounts
4.Your thirdgen headers will not work so you would need ls1 swap headers that are made for thirdgens (hawksthirdgenparts.com)
5.Many hours of wrenching, frustration, and down time (you would need another car during this period)
6.I'm sure theres is more im forgetting.
You also have to remember that if you did the t56 swap you would need to factor in the cost of the pedal setup, shorter driveshaft, and modifying the tranny tunnel.
Basically what you would need:
1.Aftermarket k-member or notched stock k-member.
2.The computer/wiring/accesories/etc
3.Different tranny mounts
4.Your thirdgen headers will not work so you would need ls1 swap headers that are made for thirdgens (hawksthirdgenparts.com)
5.Many hours of wrenching, frustration, and down time (you would need another car during this period)
6.I'm sure theres is more im forgetting.
You also have to remember that if you did the t56 swap you would need to factor in the cost of the pedal setup, shorter driveshaft, and modifying the tranny tunnel.
08-13-2008, 03:20 PM
#44
Staging Lane
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JR - just save your money and drive the car the way it is right now. When you have the cash and you're ready to get the work done, I'll take you to the 3rd gen mechanic and he'll do all work for you and pick a cam and heads, or whatever you want.
He has Edelbrock mid-lengths.
It someone really has their heart set on the swap it is worth it. But if you're trying to be quick without spending a lot of cash, this probably isn't the best swap. Usually most people end up with close to 10 g's into their 3rd gen before their done. Whatever driveshaft you use has to be shortened I believe also. I could be wrong. Any stick shift pedals will work, from a 4th or 3rd gen should work.
He has Edelbrock mid-lengths.
Tanny mount, and ds can be found without much difficulty. Can you use LS1 pedals or do you have to use 3rd gen ones? By modifying the tranny tunnel, do you mean just cutting the hole for the shifter base?...cause that's simple. I've done that and cut the hole for the clutch master cylinder before.
08-13-2008, 03:27 PM
#45
He has Edelbrock mid-lengths.
It someone really has their heart set on the swap it is worth it. But if you're trying to be quick without spending a lot of cash, this probably isn't the best swap. Usually most people end up with close to 10 g's into their 3rd gen before their done. Whatever driveshaft you use has to be shortened I believe also. I could be wrong. Any stick shift pedals will work, from a 4th or 3rd gen I believe also.
It someone really has their heart set on the swap it is worth it. But if you're trying to be quick without spending a lot of cash, this probably isn't the best swap. Usually most people end up with close to 10 g's into their 3rd gen before their done. Whatever driveshaft you use has to be shortened I believe also. I could be wrong. Any stick shift pedals will work, from a 4th or 3rd gen I believe also.
LS1/T56 drop-out w/ ECU and wire harness - ~$4500
used pedals, k-member, driveshaft can be found in the classifieds for cheap or at a junkyard.
Driveshaft shortening - $???
Free labor.
I don't see it costing anywhere near 10 grand.
08-13-2008, 03:30 PM
#46
little bullshit nickel and dime stuff adds up quick.... And besides if you get a drop out for 4500, then you just have a stock LS1 in a 3rd gen. Gonna need more cash to mod the LS1, new clutch probably or very soon. A lot of little stuff bites you in the ***.
08-13-2008, 04:02 PM
#47
Teching In
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ls1/T56 with tranny can be found for anywhere from $2500 to $5500 right now..
Basically what you would need:
1.Aftermarket k-member or notched stock k-member.
2.The computer/wiring/accesories/etc
3.Different tranny mounts
4.Your thirdgen headers will not work so you would need ls1 swap headers that are made for thirdgens (hawksthirdgenparts.com)
5.Many hours of wrenching, frustration, and down time (you would need another car during this period)
6.I'm sure theres is more im forgetting.
You also have to remember that if you did the t56 swap you would need to factor in the cost of the pedal setup, shorter driveshaft, and modifying the tranny tunnel.
Basically what you would need:
1.Aftermarket k-member or notched stock k-member.
2.The computer/wiring/accesories/etc
3.Different tranny mounts
4.Your thirdgen headers will not work so you would need ls1 swap headers that are made for thirdgens (hawksthirdgenparts.com)
5.Many hours of wrenching, frustration, and down time (you would need another car during this period)
6.I'm sure theres is more im forgetting.
You also have to remember that if you did the t56 swap you would need to factor in the cost of the pedal setup, shorter driveshaft, and modifying the tranny tunnel.
08-13-2008, 05:04 PM
#48
Staging Lane
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Couldn't have said it better.
08-13-2008, 05:23 PM
#49
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (52)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SGV, So Cal
Posts: 678
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ls1 swap on top of my head..
ls1 with trans. ecu and whole lot of wiring !
if mouting a t56 mount holes for master cylinder .. + shifter
notched k memeber
hawks or spohn motor mounts
as well as t56 tranny member ..
custom fit headers or hawks stainless steel ones
custom y pipe
4th gen fuel tank and walbro fuel pump.
4th gen fuel lines . no evap etc or its up to u .. fpr
bunch of wiring ..
extended wiring harness
get rid of the evap and all that other stuff
bunch of soldering
power distribution blocks
while ur at it might as well do all ur bushings
ball joints tie rods ends etc
biggger brakes $$
u can use ur same driveshaft or get a 4th gen alum
get a better differential
and rear suspension $$
and yeah it can get pretty expensive
not too hard if u got tools and the experience
ls1 with trans. ecu and whole lot of wiring !
if mouting a t56 mount holes for master cylinder .. + shifter
notched k memeber
hawks or spohn motor mounts
as well as t56 tranny member ..
custom fit headers or hawks stainless steel ones
custom y pipe
4th gen fuel tank and walbro fuel pump.
4th gen fuel lines . no evap etc or its up to u .. fpr
bunch of wiring ..
extended wiring harness
get rid of the evap and all that other stuff
bunch of soldering
power distribution blocks
while ur at it might as well do all ur bushings
ball joints tie rods ends etc
biggger brakes $$
u can use ur same driveshaft or get a 4th gen alum
get a better differential
and rear suspension $$
and yeah it can get pretty expensive
not too hard if u got tools and the experience
08-13-2008, 10:01 PM
#50
On The Tree
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lakewood/HB/Anaheim
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
complete lt1 swap: $1500. engine. harness. pcm. trans. fuel. accessories. drive shaft. rearend. wheels. dash. seats.
use the rest of the money for a stall, gears and cam/valvetrain. very straight forward swap. ill come down and help too
use the rest of the money for a stall, gears and cam/valvetrain. very straight forward swap. ill come down and help too
08-13-2008, 10:55 PM
#52
LS1/T56 is much worth it.
If you get the 5-6k and get that rolling, then you won't be bored of your car for a while.
300hp, 3100lbs (after the iron block to aluminum block change) whats not to like?
Sure, mods and general maintenence attempt to empty your wallet. But there are many rewards for modding an LS1 and fixing things that need to eventually be fixed in your car.
For a cheaper alternative, LT1 would be the next best bet.
If you get the 5-6k and get that rolling, then you won't be bored of your car for a while.
300hp, 3100lbs (after the iron block to aluminum block change) whats not to like?
Sure, mods and general maintenence attempt to empty your wallet. But there are many rewards for modding an LS1 and fixing things that need to eventually be fixed in your car.
For a cheaper alternative, LT1 would be the next best bet.
08-15-2008, 01:41 PM
#53
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Brea, CA
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If a thirdgen with a stock LS1 engine is a sleeper, what do you call a thirdgen with a TPI engine that beats LS1's? 
Judging from the times I saw at the LA Invasion, it doesnt take much to beat one. [/smacktalk]
First of all, your GM Goodwrench engine is a flat-tappet, two-piece seal, with 8.5:1 compression, a tiny cam, and horrible heads. I wouldnt even call it a boat anchor, that's too good for it. One local thirdgenner bought one before he knew better, and with headers and slicks and bolt-ons he was running mid-14's, about what a stock 350 TPI runs. Dont even bother buying anything to hop-up this engine, its not worth it.
If an LS1 swap costs $10,000, Dyno Don has built several LS1 killers for less than that, about $6-7000 including the swap.
Allen89GTA: 12.29 @ 110
Vince86Z28: 12.41 @ 112
Dyno Don90TA: 12.63 @ 108
Ben-91Camaro383: 12.58 @ 112
Kevin91Z: 12.80 @ 108 (old combo)
Plus we all pass the smog test legally, and get 25+ MPG on the highway thanks to my tuning.
The only bad side is he's VERY busy with a long waiting list.
We just had our thirdgenners meeting last week, and the next one wont be until October. But you can come over to our website www.sc3g.org or the SoCal forum on www.thirdgen.org and participate.
Judging from the times I saw at the LA Invasion, it doesnt take much to beat one. [/smacktalk]First of all, your GM Goodwrench engine is a flat-tappet, two-piece seal, with 8.5:1 compression, a tiny cam, and horrible heads. I wouldnt even call it a boat anchor, that's too good for it. One local thirdgenner bought one before he knew better, and with headers and slicks and bolt-ons he was running mid-14's, about what a stock 350 TPI runs. Dont even bother buying anything to hop-up this engine, its not worth it.
If an LS1 swap costs $10,000, Dyno Don has built several LS1 killers for less than that, about $6-7000 including the swap.
Allen89GTA: 12.29 @ 110
Vince86Z28: 12.41 @ 112
Dyno Don90TA: 12.63 @ 108
Ben-91Camaro383: 12.58 @ 112
Kevin91Z: 12.80 @ 108 (old combo)
Plus we all pass the smog test legally, and get 25+ MPG on the highway thanks to my tuning.
The only bad side is he's VERY busy with a long waiting list.
We just had our thirdgenners meeting last week, and the next one wont be until October. But you can come over to our website www.sc3g.org or the SoCal forum on www.thirdgen.org and participate.
08-15-2008, 03:03 PM
#55
First of all, your GM Goodwrench engine is a flat-tappet, two-piece seal, with 8.5:1 compression, a tiny cam, and horrible heads. I wouldnt even call it a boat anchor, that's too good for it. One local thirdgenner bought one before he knew better, and with headers and slicks and bolt-ons he was running mid-14's, about what a stock 350 TPI runs. Dont even bother buying anything to hop-up this engine, its not worth it.
I just helped my buddy Mike get his 3rd gen rolling again after sitting for months. He just ran 8.9 yesterday at Irwindale with a 2.x 60', improper timing, 2.73 gears, & street tires.
Do the LT1 swap that Chris quoted you. I'll help.
Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; 08-15-2008 at 04:30 PM.
08-15-2008, 04:05 PM
#56
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (52)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SGV, So Cal
Posts: 678
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i was runing 8.9 back in 04 with my stock set up on drag radials
i hate my gas mileage on my tpi and i hate the cast iron heads n block
period! im not planing to mod my tpi any further
08-15-2008, 05:54 PM
#59
here u go one of the most viscious cams u can get
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=303&sb=2
its comp cam's 300AR
i say if ur gonna get a cam get a REAL cam.
im sure ur engine will really wake up with this one and will lope like crazy.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=303&sb=2
its comp cam's 300AR
i say if ur gonna get a cam get a REAL cam.
im sure ur engine will really wake up with this one and will lope like crazy.