pure stupidity right there. 
tips on how to lower my 60ft.
any advice. my 60's suck. i've been going to the track for the last month.
my car is a full bolton car. no cam or heads.I'm running bfg's Dr's 275x40?x17's and most of my 60's are 2.2's. i lower my tire pressure from 22psi-16 psi. i launch at 3krpm.any advice?
I just got some 16'' mt et streets that i'll be using soon. so it should hook a bit better. do you guys think it safe to run them on my car? kinda scared..thanks guys!
my car is a full bolton car. no cam or heads.I'm running bfg's Dr's 275x40?x17's and most of my 60's are 2.2's. i lower my tire pressure from 22psi-16 psi. i launch at 3krpm.any advice?
I just got some 16'' mt et streets that i'll be using soon. so it should hook a bit better. do you guys think it safe to run them on my car? kinda scared..thanks guys!
im not sure if u have that problem since u upgraded to the LS7 clutch and flywheel. on my stock clutch when i either drive my car high rpm for a long period of time or slip the clutch too much, the clutch pedal goes to the floor and it feels like there is no pressure in the line, it only lasts like 10 seconds but it can **** you up big time on the track
Better RT = better 60'?!?! Hahaha Thats the dumbest thing I have ever heard, even if you wait for 5 seconds after green then go your car still rolls out the same! The only thing that could add a bit is weather you shallow stage or deep stage (which can also get you a .1 down the track shallow staging)
Well I made that one easy for you. I know the clock dont start till you leave the line so rt is not a factor. Let me correct myself. I guess I meant just leaving harder off the line would give you a better 60ft. The harder I left the line the better my rt was and my 60ft but I guess that was more good timing than anything else. Nice sig BTW. I dont mind a correction but careful with that stupidity ****. LS1 Tech Stories
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lol at this long as thread...sorry i didnt feel like reading it all but this what u need to do luis...
10bolt mt= bad ...u can do it but i wouldnt reccoment launching hard on them.
You need to turn off ur traction control
then
you need a torque arm
LCA's and drop brackets since ur cars lowered.
your springs are really stiff so therefore its gonna be harder to get good launches out of them. hense the reason that alot of drag racers with camaros keep the stock rear springs and put in drag bags.
after these things are installed 16-18lbs of air in these bfgs and 3500rpm launch to full throttle slipping the clutch u should pull off a 1.7...
your welcome in advance
i cut a 1.9 on kuhmo all seasons@ 18lbs dumdumdum
10bolt mt= bad ...u can do it but i wouldnt reccoment launching hard on them.
You need to turn off ur traction control
then
you need a torque arm
LCA's and drop brackets since ur cars lowered.
your springs are really stiff so therefore its gonna be harder to get good launches out of them. hense the reason that alot of drag racers with camaros keep the stock rear springs and put in drag bags.
after these things are installed 16-18lbs of air in these bfgs and 3500rpm launch to full throttle slipping the clutch u should pull off a 1.7...
your welcome in advance
i cut a 1.9 on kuhmo all seasons@ 18lbs dumdumdum
the issue with this isnt the physical clutch but rather the hydraulics, although the car would shift fine normally and even well when you hot rodding around, when your at the track and you start slipping the clutch and riding it out of the hole you create a lot of heat, sometimes too much for old fluid to handle so then the fluid boils if you will creating little air bubbles. if you were still on your stock clutch, all you would need to do is suck out all that bad ****, and pour in some new **** and put a mighty vac on the master and draw all the bubbles out, and repeat till your fluid stays clean after you drive your car. its something that takes days to accomplish
and bleeding it does nothing you need to get a mighy vac.
my bad, i respect that fact that your a mechanic. when i usually dont hav somebody to sit inside the car and pressure bleed i usally do gravity bleeding. but i know pressure bleeding is far the best way but how in the hell can u hook up a mighty vac to the bleeder???
anyhow, you dont even touch the bleed screw, you suck the bubbles out from the resevoir, the little hole at the bottom, much more effective then trying to get it from the slave.
its cool, i like to think of myself a tech rather than mechanic, mechanics get paid **** and know ****, i get paid well and have all my ase's and have completed all my ford requirments and schooling, i am what they call a master diesel tech.
anyhow, you dont even touch the bleed screw, you suck the bubbles out from the resevoir, the little hole at the bottom, much more effective then trying to get it from the slave.
anyhow, you dont even touch the bleed screw, you suck the bubbles out from the resevoir, the little hole at the bottom, much more effective then trying to get it from the slave.
