Deal of the century? 2000 Firehawk
Deal of the century? 2000 Firehawk Okay guys. I should have been wearing a ski mask when I bought this car. Found the thing on Craigslist and committed to it within the hour. But I want all of your opinions... Just how good of a deal did I get? How much money do you guys think is tied up in this car? How much SHOULD it have cost?
2000 Firehawk- M6, Bright Red, 168,000 miles, clean title, no accidents
SLP build number 41/742
-MWC Fab 9"
-Suspension- new parts
Now, for the bad...
It seeps a little oil out the valve covers, not bad though.
Someone punched the passenger rear quarter and there is an X keyed into the sail panel.
Paint leaves a little to be desired. I'm going to have it repainted. The clear is peeling on some parts, and others are scratched up. Might as well redo the whole thing.
The interior is FILTHY, but will clean up fine.
Both front seats are shot. Driver is worn out, with no tears. Passenger is nice and comfy, but ripped wide open.
Power seats don't work.
Interior lights all burned out.
Bottom line is...I bought the car for what came on it. I'm taking everything in the rear out and saving it for my Camaro build, replacing the stuff with stock and going to turn it into my DD. He included all stock rear parts aside from the actual rear end itself, which is destroyed anyway. I want to know what everyone thinks this car is really worth...both in real world value as it sits now, and also how much actual money has been put into the car. Thanks fellas.
I paid $5,250 for it
2000 Firehawk- M6, Bright Red, 168,000 miles, clean title, no accidents
SLP build number 41/742
-MWC Fab 9"
- 4.11 with a billet clutch posi
- Housing backbrace
- Strange 31 spline axles
- Fill and drain plugs
- ABS axle mod
- (He said it has traction control also? ABS and TC lights on, so idk)
- Black powder coating
-Suspension- new parts
- MWC Adjustable chromoly lower control arms
- MWC adjustable chromoly panhard bar
- MWC double adjustable chromoly torque arm
- MWC tunnel mount drive shaft loop
- Rack and pinion
- Upper ball joints
- Tie rod ends
- Poly bushings in upper control Arms
- High pressure PS hose
- Poly motor and transmission mounts
- Poly Sway bar bushings
- Poly bump stops
- Strano Springs
- Koni 4/4 adjustable shocks
- UMI 3-point sub frame connectors
- LS7 Clutch
- Tick Master Cylinder
- AC Delco Slave Cylinder
- Hurst shifter
- ARP Flywheel and Pressure plate bolts
- Tick remote speed bleeder
- Brash shifter bushing
- New pilot bearing, throw out bearing, rear main seal, and trans input shaft seals
- Stainless Long tube headers 1 3/4 (LSXtreme)
- ORY (LSXtreme)
- Percy split bolt stainless header bolts
- QTP electric cut out
- New Bosch 13111 O2 sensors
- OE Wheels chrome C6
- New Nitto 555 all the way around
- Double-DIN stereo installation
- Pioneer App-Radio 2
- MB Quart seperates in front
- RF 6.5" components in rear
- New steering wheel control module
- LED dash and interior lights
- New condenser, compressor, evap, lines
- Heater core and radiator flushed and tested
- All new hoses and belts (including the frame mounted heater hose)
- Tuned by Frost
- EGR/AIR delete
- Has the Lumpy spoiler. Apparently that's rare.
- New BCM
- New Ignition switch
- Sealed beam to Xenon conversion headlights (low beams)
- HID fog lights
- Auto Trix Window fix with passenger express down
- New window motors
- New dash
- Metal geared headlights
- Optima Red Top Battery
- Replaced mirrors with tinted 98 mirrors
Now, for the bad...
It seeps a little oil out the valve covers, not bad though.
Someone punched the passenger rear quarter and there is an X keyed into the sail panel.
Paint leaves a little to be desired. I'm going to have it repainted. The clear is peeling on some parts, and others are scratched up. Might as well redo the whole thing.
The interior is FILTHY, but will clean up fine.
Both front seats are shot. Driver is worn out, with no tears. Passenger is nice and comfy, but ripped wide open.
Power seats don't work.
Interior lights all burned out.
Bottom line is...I bought the car for what came on it. I'm taking everything in the rear out and saving it for my Camaro build, replacing the stuff with stock and going to turn it into my DD. He included all stock rear parts aside from the actual rear end itself, which is destroyed anyway. I want to know what everyone thinks this car is really worth...both in real world value as it sits now, and also how much actual money has been put into the car. Thanks fellas.
I paid $5,250 for it
Last edited by sawblade99Z; Apr 26, 2014 at 06:43 PM.
Truthfully I didn't even care if it ran. However, it has a perfectly healthy stock ls1 in it that is as quiet as a mouse. Doesn't even have piston slap on cold starts.
I think it's a killer deal too. I've been looking in about a 200 mile radius for the past six months and haven't even found a stock car with the normal issues for that low of a price.
awesome deal , their is 5k worth of rear end and suspension parts. Change the valve cover gaskets and drive it .
And dont build the camaro , everyone has a ******* camaro stay with the bird , it looks better than a camaro .
Camaro hater in the house. build the bird .
And dont build the camaro , everyone has a ******* camaro stay with the bird , it looks better than a camaro .
Camaro hater in the house. build the bird .
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Douchebag On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 4
From: Indianapolis, IN
I would've said $7k tops and what you paid is a good deal. Deal of the century? Nope. Sure there's a lot of money in parts there, but expensive parts don't mean a whole lot for resale value.
I would say deal of the century with 60k less miles and the interior wasn't ****.
I would say deal of the century with 60k less miles and the interior wasn't ****.
The interior isn't ****. The seats are ****. The entire dash is perfect and the carpet and panels only need cleaned. Besides all the money dumped into it, my time is worth something too. And there's an awful lot of stuff done to this thing that I'm glad I'm not the one that has to **** with it.
I have a few reasons for building the Camaro instead though. It's lighter, for one. I want the consistency of a stalled auto for my weekend toy. I've also wanted to DD an M6 Trans Am since before I even bought my Camaro. Just couldn't afford one at that point in time. And my grandpa helped me buy the Camaro, so that's just the one I'd prefer to build. I want to have it done soon enough that he's able to enjoy it some too. And of course I love Hugger Orange...
you did well. Every car I buy I ask myself if any drivetrain component grenaded the day after I bought it could I still easily make money parting the car out before I purchase it and in your case I would say you can safely check that box lol.
Deal of the century no but well bought solid deal yes
I hope the seller was able to straighten out his problems by selling it and will be back on here with another in the future , I am sure you helped him out more than you know to quickly buy a car he had a lot of effort in without beating him up/jerking him around on price not to mention knowing its going to someone that knows what he bought not some schmuck fresh out of a riced out civic...
Deal of the century no but well bought solid deal yes
I hope the seller was able to straighten out his problems by selling it and will be back on here with another in the future , I am sure you helped him out more than you know to quickly buy a car he had a lot of effort in without beating him up/jerking him around on price not to mention knowing its going to someone that knows what he bought not some schmuck fresh out of a riced out civic...
Great Deal !!!!!! Thank you for sharing that deal with us. You can't go wrong. The cost of after-market parts are tremendous. It normally takes time to accumulate those parts. Drive-trains are costing more than the vehicles. Good luck.
Thanks! I'm pretty proud of it.
Thanks man! Before I went to get it, I added up the cost of only the main parts on it (All MWC parts, drive shaft, shocks/springs, wheels/tires, and exhaust) Things I had for sure planned to buy later on, and came up with roughly $8,500. The trans work and all of the small might-as-well-upgrade-when-it-needs-replaced stuff adds up to a pretty significant amount too. I'd say easily $2,000 and a lot of time/labor.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,917
Likes: 676
From: Western North Carolina
Certainly not the deal of the century, and I didn't realize from what is posted here that it is so easy to sell parts for good $$. IMO it is a real pain in the butt to sell parts. Not only finding buyers, but packing them up, shipping them, and then putting up with the buyer's complaints afterwards, whether real or someone just wanting a better deal or something for nothing. If all that potential aggravation is worth a few grand (maybe), then maybe it is worth it. It's always so easy for others to suggest things without actually doing it. Been there, done that. It's rarely easy and usually not worth it. Working at a dealership is certainly an advantage for the OP. Best of luck!