looking at a 2000 SS 61,200 miles, super clean nice bolt ons full bmr suspension. Pewter silver black leather fully optioned car. whats your thoughts?? Clean /clear title. 10k??

 

$10K seems on the high side. It would have to be extremely nice and perfectly maintained and up to date. I would value a totally stock one in nice condition with that mileage in the $8K-$9.5K range. More than 2-3 owners would be a subtraction imo. Fwiw, 2-3 yrs ago a 65K mile 2000 SS auto in my area was listed for $6500. I didn't see it though. Also depends on how hard it is to find clean SS's in your area. On the resale side a lot of potential buyers don't like the Pewter, but Silver is fine.

Fully optioned in 2000 would mean Auburn, 3" performance exhaust, leather seats, alloy wheels, Bilstein suspension upgrade, 12 disc CD changer, SS front grille, SS mats/key fobs, etc. I would doubt that it's fully optioned. Can't recall if this year came with a 1LE option as well. If your SLP option sheet is over $3,000+ I'd call that pretty well optioned for a 2000.

 

Hard to tell without some pictures of key areas, such as engine bay and interior. Statements such as "super clean nice" mean different things to different people. At 61k miles/15 years old, the car could be anywhere from very good to fair. Has the roof been replaced yet? Any short cuts/questionable installs with the mods, and/or cheap parts used? As mentioned above by Firebrian, the number of owners would also have an impact if I'm the one buying. And is the car silver or pewter? Silver is generally more desirable.

Your location will also play a role. If the car has never seen winter and you're in a northern state, there is a premium for such a car. Those of us here in the rust belt will usually pay more for a winter-stored car as this is more convenient than bringing one up from the south or southwest. And if you're in an area with a high cost of living (such as Chicago), that also brings the price up.

A $10k value is possible if the car is truly in very good condition (vs. the typical definition), winter-stored (or used in a non-harsh climate), and in/near a major urban area. The modifications may add or subtract value depending on quality of parts and install. If the roof hasn't been replaced yet, that's another ding to the value (assuming t-top car as you mentioned "fully optioned car" - if it's a hard top then the roof replacement process is far more involved/even bigger hassle.)

 

I'm sort of surprised there's really nothing in 1998-2000 SS's on autotrader with under 75K miles and in the $7K-$11K price range. Anything decent looking seems priced at $10K or higher. Strong for late December....or just lack of seller interest?

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/Used+Cars/cars+between+6000+and+11000/Chevrolet/Camaro/East+Lyme+CT-06333?endYear=2000&engineCode=8CLDR&engineCodes=8C LDR&firstRecord=0&listingType=used&listingTypes=us ed&makeCode1=CHEV&maxMileage=75000&maxPrice=11000& minPrice=6000&mmt=[CHEV[CAM[]][]]&modelCode1=CAM&photosOnlyActual=true&pricesOnly=t rue&searchRadius=0&showcaseListingId=0&showcaseOwn erId=583729&sortBy=derivedpriceASC&startYear=1998& Log=0

 

Iv never heard of a roof replacement?? What's that all about.

 

Every '99-'02 F-body will suffer from this (also some of the very late '98s, 05/98 and later build dates, though most '98s are fine.) Here is a thread detailing the issue:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/paint-bod...e-dummies.html

Darker colored roofs suffer worse from the problem, which makes this more noticeable on V8 Camaros since they all have black roofs (sans 35th LE.) But it will eventually happen with enough UV/heat exposure on any color.

 

Some sellers might do a quick repaint on the roof/sail panel before they sell the car....rather than addressing the root cause. The paint bubbling will come back for a future owner to deal with. A lot of these cars regardless of miles still don't have the paint issue because they don't sit out in the direct sun. If the car is moving at least that will remove most of the heat. Had I known of this issue before I bought my car, I'd have steered myself towards a '98, a convertible, or one that had the sail panel replaced. Oddly, I did own an early '98 years ago and had no clue there was such an issue....as my car didn't have it.

 

At a certain point, it gets bad enough that the cooling effect of being in motion isn't enough to prevent break-through of the glue. I watched my '02 go through all the stages of this; at first it was a sort of wavy or rash/welt-like appearance in the finish, then the bubbles started. Thing was, I could pull out of my garage with a clean panel and get right on the expressway, and if it was a sunny day then after a short while the bubbles would start to ooze while in motion and one or two tiny glue trails would be streaming down the back window. You'd have to limit yourself to night driving only to totally avoid the issue, as I'd even have problems on somewhat overcast days if there was any hint of hazy sunshine. I've seen some of these panels get so bad that it looks like human skin with 3rd degree burns. Just a nasty issue that lowers the value of all the non-repaired '99+ cars in my eyes. I didn't start researching the problem until 2003 when I ran across the first TSB release from GM. It only covered the '99-'02 cars, but once I began cataloging examples I discovered that '98s built in May of '98 or later were also hit-or-miss; some as late as June are still OK, even examples that have been daily drivers all these years, but some from May have shown the issue with just limited exposure. In the interest of full disclosure, April of '98 examples have been hard to come by so I don't have much data on that month but so far no problem examples have been found or reported. March and earlier have been 100% OK (my own is a late March build and has zero issues even after years of sitting in full mid-day sun at tons of car shows.) So it seems that GM began to phase in the new process sometime during the latter part of May of '98, and was in full swing before the start of '99 production.

 

Would new qtr panels both sides affect price of vehicle drastically??

 

New quarter panels? That's a cut-and-weld job as they're the only metal body panels on the car. That's serious work, especially for a 61k mile '00 car, and especially to need both of them. These cars don't rot like a '69 Camaro would, the only reason I could see for new quarters on such an example would be due to a significant collision. Major red flag if this is the case.

Or did you mean new fenders? If so, that might have been due to someone breaking the lower mounting tabs off from improper jacking. If they are OE parts and the paint match/install is perfect, and there was no structural damage done (such as in an accident) then this wouldn't have much effect on value IMO.

 

Nope both rear qtrs replaced. You can see seam sealer inside the door jambs

 

As your signature indicates you've had several 4th gens, I'm sure you're aware of the sealer that is visible from the factory in the door jambs. So you're saying there is additional sealer? Have any pictures of this?

If this is really the case, I would for sure stay away from this car without more information. Those quarters didn't need to be replaced due to rust, not on a 61k mile 2000 car. If there is no history/record of the damage or reason for repair, especially since it's both sides, I would pass even if the title was clean. Some others might disagree, but that's just me.

 

Not sure if full qtrs were done, but in hatch area something was obviouly done, whats your thoughts on inside doir jamb???

 

^
Like I mentioned in your other thread, that door jamb area is stock, they all look exactly like that and nothing has been done there at all. The corner area of the hatch looks roughed up but the remainder of the hatch jamb is stock. Not sure what happened on the corner, but the rest of it looks normal.

 

Cool, that was my only concern. Appreciate all the feedback.

 

I think the upper inner quarter in the hatch back area is ok. It just might be a little bit of factory sloppiness on the body putty when smoothing out those surfaces. The only other thing I see is that there are cracks on the tab where the hatch back seats. I suspect some slamming over the years did that....or maybe just lots of cycles. My lid usually doesn't fully seat the first time because I don't slam it hard enough.

If one quarter panel was replaced there's a good chance that the paint is not the exact same thickness as the original side. You can measure the difference with a paint gauge, magnet, etc. If both quarter panels have been replaced then you have to find another painted metal part of the car to compare to. Engine bay? Rockers? Door hinge support area?

 

Thanks guys for all your input, checked car out again and its super clean with clean history and title. I'm going to purchase.