I’ve used both on the street...and have done so without issues. As 1000’s and 1000’s of others…Based on our history, the non-bolted wheels have failed quicker than the bolted versions. That is why I'm suggesting that if you're going to use our drag wheels for purposes not intended based on history, you'd have more success with the bolted styles. Our non-bolted wheels, I believe we have about 40 wheels fail on an F-body in 15 years.

No one wants to see failures, we don't like them either. Even something like an aftermarket rear-end on the street failing...or other suspension parts. Things break, it can/does happen.

I'd suggest that if you're concerned regarding the percentage of any drag wheel failing, consider a street/strip version wheel. Keep in mind though that these are designed as dual duty so you're not going to see the full benefits that 15" racing wheels were originally designed for. I've debated many times of why 15's using skinnies/slicks were designed originally for many times. Though we've made street/strip wheels on limited bases, we decided to offer them for the F-body guys as many are demanding them. We try to build what you guys want.

Also, as indicated, even the Billet Specialty wheels which they consider a street/strip wheel failed. If you look at their sales numbers, I'd bet the percentage rate of failure is actually higher. I don't know the other manufactures failure rates as they have not been pointed as to what wheels have been damaged...I can only go by what I've seen personally and what pictures others post.

As discussed, we've used the same source one piece shells on old street/strip designs so I'm speaking directly from experience regarding the structure of the wheel. I've seen those one piece shells actually coming in thinner than some of our drag shells fwiw. Our new street/strip F-body configurations do not use those same shells anymore...we use in-house spun formed shells.

 

I run mine on the street some but its not a dd, If they break they break, there not made to last forever. I'm very happy with them!!!!!

 

i have seen alot of bogarts break on the street. when i bought my weldstars it was my dd,now that its not i would go with the d10s.

 

Thanks for your comments and consideration towards our products. We are here to help and answer questions and concerns.

I do want to add for others reading, this is why it’s important to differentiate between different designed wheels. Many companies including ourselves produce a wide variety of designs and styles which are created for specific purposes. It’s difficult to compare apples to oranges.

If someone noted a post seeing our wheels break on the street, it's has not been our F-body street/strip wheels nor has it been our road race wheels.

If someone is referring to our drag wheels, then I have openly discussed that out of the 1000's and 1000's made specifically for F-bodies company wide, we have ~7 bolted wheels that broke, we have ~40 non bolted wheels….yes in 15 years! Not a huge number by any means, I’d like to see zero of course… All drag wheels are not made for the street, so if you use them against what they are designed for, you do have a greater risk in damages. I will state, we are more than happy to repair/replace our products whether it’s in warranty or not. First hand or second hand, it does not matter.

I will go out as far and state even our street/strip wheels or other manufactures street/strip wheels are not impervious to failure... you'll probably see someone’s break down the road. Billet Specialties street/strip wheels I've already seen fail...and saw that style piece break first hand.

 

So to clarify: the Bogart D-10, the Weld Prostar and the Weld Draglite are all purpose-built drag wheels, while the Weld RT and Billet Specialties Streetlites are street/strip wheels, right?

 

Correct! Don't forget to add we do have our Bogart Street/strip wheels in the street/strip category too.

 

which wheels are they then?

 

I'm sorry I wasn't clearer. The street/strip wheels will look identical to any of the P1 bolted wheels. They are built different using different thickness material and material grade in some cases.

We haven't updated the website yet to show the street/strip wheels. As mentioned, they look the same, just built differently.

If you see a non-bolted wheel you like, let's say you liked the SS style non-bolted wheel. Well I can build this for you in a bolted style. Just how you can view the regular non-bolted D10 or the welded RT wheel...there happens to be a picture of the bolted D10 and bolted RT style as well.

This would be for any of the non-bolted wheels...I can turn them all into a bolted street/strip series wheel.

For example, take the SS wheel I've mentioned, I have right now a customer we are building a bolted SS drag setup for the LS1 car.

We have so many combinations it’s difficult to list everything. Heck, we even built dune/mud buggy, go cart pieces etc. Realistically, it’s best to call us of which I can discuss any or all options you may be interested in or that you may not even be aware that we can do.

 

so how much $$ are we talking for a bolted d10 street/strip wheel in 15x4 15x10 and maybe a pic so i can see what they will look like thanks

 

The pricing is listed above when I did a comparison between the three manufacturers you initially inquired about. I also list the comparative benefits from ours and welds.

The street/strip wheels would look just like the rest of the LS1 or LT1 F-bodies using 15" wheel configurations listed in the gallery (even though most are drag setups). ...something you can't see when you're looking at the wheels mounted. It's a structural difference.

This all would probably be much easier for you if you gave us a call on Monday...this way it would also remove any questions you may be forgetting about or other options we'd have to offer. Feel free to call us if you're interested. Just ask for me, Steve.