How do I restore a polished wheel?
#1
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I have some OEM C5 Y2K 5 spokes that are polished. And I'm guessing clearcoated from factory?
Anyway, they have some curb rash and oxidation as well as some weird "spider-like" corrosion on them.
Is there a way I can get them to look good again?
Thanks in advance.
-Daniel
Anyway, they have some curb rash and oxidation as well as some weird "spider-like" corrosion on them.
Is there a way I can get them to look good again?
Thanks in advance.
-Daniel
#3
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Im not sure if their clearcoated from the factory but I know my WS6 wheels were. You would start by stripping off the clear coat. The curb wash can be sanded and repaired somewhat easily if it isnt too bad. Then you can buy Adams metal polish and they will look as shiney as chrome.
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You will need to strip them then sand them with fine grit sandpaper or scuff with decreasing harshness scotchbrite pads.
Then polish them with good metal polish (Mothers, Blingmaster, White Diamond, Blue Magic, Adams).
Polishes I avoid because they don't work worth a ****: Meguires Hot Rims paste, Eagle 1 anything, Never Dull.
Then polish them with good metal polish (Mothers, Blingmaster, White Diamond, Blue Magic, Adams).
Polishes I avoid because they don't work worth a ****: Meguires Hot Rims paste, Eagle 1 anything, Never Dull.
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Well since they are the same price as the better stuff, I don't see the point in bothering with them. I brought back aluminum slots that were stored outside face up for over 10 years with no covering or clearcoat.
I've done 3 sets this way.
This set was done quick, hit them with some fine scothbrite by hand for 10-15 minutes each, then with a powerball for 15 minutes each and came out better with subsequent polishes.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/thunderstruck507/PICT2079.jpg)
This is my personal set for the Chevelle. They were stored since the early 80s. I spent about an hour (fronts) to hour and a half (rears) on them by hand. Now once I get to a super fine scotchbrite pad I switch to a power ball and it cuts time down drastically.
I've done 3 sets this way.
This set was done quick, hit them with some fine scothbrite by hand for 10-15 minutes each, then with a powerball for 15 minutes each and came out better with subsequent polishes.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/thunderstruck507/PICT2079.jpg)
This is my personal set for the Chevelle. They were stored since the early 80s. I spent about an hour (fronts) to hour and a half (rears) on them by hand. Now once I get to a super fine scotchbrite pad I switch to a power ball and it cuts time down drastically.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/thunderstruck507/Chevelle/PICT1169.jpg)
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a high speed buffer is the best tool to use hands down. I have an extension made for mine that will let me get a big pad down into the wheel without hitting the wheel. Works great.
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yes high speed buffer is the best tool, i just did a set of ws6 rims that were in really bad shape, had to strip,do alot of we sanding, and use a few kinds of metal polishing compounds,last polish i used was white diamond,which imo is the best stuff you can get from a store,good luck man if ya need any help just hit me up ,
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Thanks everyone for the help. I love this site bc of how friendly and helpful everyone is.
I'm going to get a powerball and go to work on those wheels.
If it turns out bad Ill just paint them black![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
Ill post pics when I get one done
I'm going to get a powerball and go to work on those wheels.
If it turns out bad Ill just paint them black
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
Ill post pics when I get one done
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)