NT05R vs MT ET Street Drag on the Street
11-12-2013, 02:25 PM
#21
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555R's last long as hell. My current 305/35/19 NT05R's are more than 50% gone @ 4k miles. I wouldn't say they last long for street driving. Once they get a little heat in them from driving, they stick well. Much better than the Michelin PS2 285/40/19's that came on the car. 1st gear used to be completely useless, and I had to feather in 2nd. With the NT05R's, and a little heat, I can comfortably stomp on it whenever I feel the need.
With the NT05R's, I've been .98G. I really don't think any MT would come close to that. I usually run 36psi in the rear on the street. With 20psi at the track, I've been a 1.70 60' in a bone stock 4800lb Cadillac. The NT05R performs all around, which is what I was looking for in a tire. I no longer have a dedicated drag car, and didn't want to sacrifice any handling.
With the NT05R's, I've been .98G. I really don't think any MT would come close to that. I usually run 36psi in the rear on the street. With 20psi at the track, I've been a 1.70 60' in a bone stock 4800lb Cadillac. The NT05R performs all around, which is what I was looking for in a tire. I no longer have a dedicated drag car, and didn't want to sacrifice any handling.
11-12-2013, 02:28 PM
#22
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So I assume you'll be doing a lot of street racing? I only ask because if you're swapping to a drag tire at the track, why spend a bunch of money on a drag radial too? Do you drive the car much on the street? If so, I'm going to recommend the Nitto as well as it will definitely last longer. If you aren't doing a bunch of street racing, I'd save your money and just get a good street tire that will last you two or three times longer than a drag radial and then not have to worry about buying street tires again for a long time.
Your setup is almost LITERALLY, and I'm not even joking, the exact same setup as what I had. My cam was a TINY bit larger, but I had the very same ported heads with ls3 valves, even the same milling, same ported intake/tb brand and size, same transmission, same converter stall size, same head gaskets, same trunion upgrade, same ram air, same timing set, same headers, same damn spark plugs, same damn rod bolts, same 10% underdriven pulley, same fuel pump and harness, . The only difference I can really see is you're running a MAF, you have larger injectors, and you are using a true dual setup, whereas I had a catted y into a 4" cutout. Anyways, My setup made 464RWHP with the cutout open through a 10-bolt, and 26" hoosier drag radials on 15" race lite wheels and a 3.42 gear. I say all of this because assuming you're at or above that number, if your converter hits as hard as my FTI did, you WILL break the drag radials loose on a first gear punch from a 30 and below roll with ease, and you WILL go through them quick if you like having fun on the street. I assume you'll be running 17" wheels with said radial, so you'll likely be right at a 26.5-27.0" tall tire right? I see you have 4.11's and a 12 bolt. The 12 bolt might rob a little power, but 4.11's will definitely make lighting 'em up easier. I learned my lesson quick and just bought street tires for the street, and Mickey Thompsons for the track. Then again maybe you have more money than me and can afford new street tires every year, lol. Whatever the case, radial or street tire, prepare to annihilate them on the street with any low speed rolling full throttle hits. Granted the radial is going to hook sooner, but I'll still bet good money that they spin for that first bit and you'll chew 'em up quick. Use the right foot wisely my friend, lol.
Good luck with your project. I'm sure it'll be fun as all hell.
Your setup is almost LITERALLY, and I'm not even joking, the exact same setup as what I had. My cam was a TINY bit larger, but I had the very same ported heads with ls3 valves, even the same milling, same ported intake/tb brand and size, same transmission, same converter stall size, same head gaskets, same trunion upgrade, same ram air, same timing set, same headers, same damn spark plugs, same damn rod bolts, same 10% underdriven pulley, same fuel pump and harness, . The only difference I can really see is you're running a MAF, you have larger injectors, and you are using a true dual setup, whereas I had a catted y into a 4" cutout. Anyways, My setup made 464RWHP with the cutout open through a 10-bolt, and 26" hoosier drag radials on 15" race lite wheels and a 3.42 gear. I say all of this because assuming you're at or above that number, if your converter hits as hard as my FTI did, you WILL break the drag radials loose on a first gear punch from a 30 and below roll with ease, and you WILL go through them quick if you like having fun on the street. I assume you'll be running 17" wheels with said radial, so you'll likely be right at a 26.5-27.0" tall tire right? I see you have 4.11's and a 12 bolt. The 12 bolt might rob a little power, but 4.11's will definitely make lighting 'em up easier. I learned my lesson quick and just bought street tires for the street, and Mickey Thompsons for the track. Then again maybe you have more money than me and can afford new street tires every year, lol. Whatever the case, radial or street tire, prepare to annihilate them on the street with any low speed rolling full throttle hits. Granted the radial is going to hook sooner, but I'll still bet good money that they spin for that first bit and you'll chew 'em up quick. Use the right foot wisely my friend, lol.
Good luck with your project. I'm sure it'll be fun as all hell.
Last edited by edwardzracing; 11-12-2013 at 02:44 PM.
11-12-2013, 02:51 PM
#23
555R's last long as hell. My current 305/35/19 NT05R's are more than 50% gone @ 4k miles. I wouldn't say they last long for street driving. Once they get a little heat in them from driving, they stick well. Much better than the Michelin PS2 285/40/19's that came on the car. 1st gear used to be completely useless, and I had to feather in 2nd. With the NT05R's, and a little heat, I can comfortably stomp on it whenever I feel the need.
With the NT05R's, I've been .98G. I really don't think any MT would come close to that. I usually run 36psi in the rear on the street. With 20psi at the track, I've been a 1.70 60' in a bone stock 4800lb Cadillac. The NT05R performs all around, which is what I was looking for in a tire. I no longer have a dedicated drag car, and didn't want to sacrifice any handling.
With the NT05R's, I've been .98G. I really don't think any MT would come close to that. I usually run 36psi in the rear on the street. With 20psi at the track, I've been a 1.70 60' in a bone stock 4800lb Cadillac. The NT05R performs all around, which is what I was looking for in a tire. I no longer have a dedicated drag car, and didn't want to sacrifice any handling.
11-12-2013, 03:57 PM
#24
NT05Rs are much stickier than the NT555s.
And lol Edwardz that's awesome. This is my third car. So I drive it when I want to drive it - much less than 8k miles a year tho. I just want something that allows me to hit it pretty hard on the street and still handle decently. The R888 was something I had also considered, but I want more traction vs all out handling.
And the converter I had designed to actually hit a little softer out of the hole from CircleD for more consistent ET. So the hope is, it's really efficient uptop and doesn't blow 315 drag radials off the car all the time. And I don't have the 12-bolt yet. Still on the stock 10-bolt with 3.23s until it explodes. Which might be pretty soon!
And lol Edwardz that's awesome. This is my third car. So I drive it when I want to drive it - much less than 8k miles a year tho. I just want something that allows me to hit it pretty hard on the street and still handle decently. The R888 was something I had also considered, but I want more traction vs all out handling.
And the converter I had designed to actually hit a little softer out of the hole from CircleD for more consistent ET. So the hope is, it's really efficient uptop and doesn't blow 315 drag radials off the car all the time. And I don't have the 12-bolt yet. Still on the stock 10-bolt with 3.23s until it explodes. Which might be pretty soon!
11-14-2013, 12:29 AM
#27
If you want to find the weak point in your drivetrain get mt et streets. I run a 17 drag radial on the street. Cam/spray through a m6. I prefer mt or hoosiers when u want a sticky tire.
11-14-2013, 11:02 PM
#28
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Here's my review of the following dr's in a 275/40/17 on a stock Gto 17x8 wheel. I've used all of these.
Nt555r least amount traction. Most amount of tread life. They spin more which will wear them out too anyways.
Bfg dr's comparable to the mt et street radials. Soft sidewall.
Nt05r close to the bfg dr's in traction. Slightly stiffer sidewall. Thus not so good from a dig. I had more luck with bfg dr's than these. Those 2 "water" gaps in the middle really cut down on contact patch.
Mt et street radials. Most traction, slightly stiffer sidewall than the bfg's. Best all around dr!!
Note. They ALL suck in the rain when they get worn down past 70% tread wear. Let's face it they all come with about 6/32 tread depth. NO tires will do good in the rain at 3/32 or less! The older they get the less you should be out in the rain if you can help it.
Nt555r least amount traction. Most amount of tread life. They spin more which will wear them out too anyways.
Bfg dr's comparable to the mt et street radials. Soft sidewall.
Nt05r close to the bfg dr's in traction. Slightly stiffer sidewall. Thus not so good from a dig. I had more luck with bfg dr's than these. Those 2 "water" gaps in the middle really cut down on contact patch.
Mt et street radials. Most traction, slightly stiffer sidewall than the bfg's. Best all around dr!!
Note. They ALL suck in the rain when they get worn down past 70% tread wear. Let's face it they all come with about 6/32 tread depth. NO tires will do good in the rain at 3/32 or less! The older they get the less you should be out in the rain if you can help it.
11-16-2013, 01:14 AM
#31
The old saying "Nittos (555r) for the street, MT's for the track" has proven true in my experience. I haven't tried NT05's or Toyo Proxes, but I'm thinking of one of those for the street come next spring.
The soft sidewall on Mickeys causes them to wallow in street conditions (I run them at 27psi on the street). Nittos are more stable. I think a slightly stiffer sidewall is preferable for street use.
The soft sidewall on Mickeys causes them to wallow in street conditions (I run them at 27psi on the street). Nittos are more stable. I think a slightly stiffer sidewall is preferable for street use.
