How to protect after strip/polish aluminum wheels?
#1
How to protect after strip/polish aluminum wheels?
Searched & didn't see anything about coating the wheel after going down to polished bare aluminum. Will a coat of clear change the look too much; gloss or flat? Apply a coat of wax? Some other aluminum protectant? Would imagine that the bare aluminum is now more subject to oxidation & pitting.
#2
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I've tried spraying high quality clear on raw metals and eventually it yellows and starts flaking. Personally I wouldn't do it, it will turn your efforts into a big mess. I've had very good sucess with billet wheels on my 2nd gen just from routine soap and water. I live 1/4 mi from the Ocean so, I know keeping the elements at bay is the key. Also, a good rinse in between for good measure if you DD. When the suface gets hazy do a quick polish, its just nature of the beast. Do it sooner than later, it'll be A Lot easier to maintain. Hope this helps.
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Back to this. As far as coatings or wax, not sure. Guess it couldn't hurt, maybe delay routine polishing,I've never really tried it. Obviously, brake dust/shavings play hell on raw aluminum too. Just keep them clean!
A cleaning tip: If you have a very "detailed" wheel like a multi spoke or the such, go buy a GOOD quality 3" paint brush like a "Purdy" or "Wooster"
These have very fine and very soft bristles. Cheap ones do not. Run tape around the metal on the brush so you won't nick or scratch wheels. Use this with soapy water to clean the hard to reach areas like around lug nuts and deep crevaces. Safe for polished surfaces and really works on cutting down on the dreaded wheel detailing time.
A cleaning tip: If you have a very "detailed" wheel like a multi spoke or the such, go buy a GOOD quality 3" paint brush like a "Purdy" or "Wooster"
These have very fine and very soft bristles. Cheap ones do not. Run tape around the metal on the brush so you won't nick or scratch wheels. Use this with soapy water to clean the hard to reach areas like around lug nuts and deep crevaces. Safe for polished surfaces and really works on cutting down on the dreaded wheel detailing time.
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I use Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845 on my polished Fikse hoops. Once they are polished and look how I want, I apply the 845 and let it fully haze 15-20 minutes or more depending on humidity. Just make sure the application and removal towels are in good condition so you don't introduce micro hazing (fine scratches).
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No, actually it is a multi-surface product. I have not used it on glass nor do they recommend it but I have used it on some plastic with good results (no chalking)
Here is a link: http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/insulator-wax/
Here is a link: http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/insulator-wax/
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#9
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Invest in a coating. There are a lot on the market. You have Americoat, Pinnacle Black Label Wheel Coating, Detailers Pro Wheel Coating, Opti-Gloss, CQuartz, C.A.R., Duragloss Enviroshield. One of those would outlast any sealant.
You could even use Meguiar's Brake Dust Barrier if you are looking for something cheap.
You could even use Meguiar's Brake Dust Barrier if you are looking for something cheap.
#11
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Hey Carlos do you know anyone thats applied that Sharkhide stuff to a fresh set of polished rims? Looks interesting, was gonna have my Street Lites powdercoated clear, but I think I may try that stuff instead. Looks easy to maintain if you have an issue, strip with lacquer thinner and reapply.
Last edited by Photochop; 12-30-2014 at 11:07 AM.
#13
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Hey Carlos do you know anyone thats applied that Sharkhide stuff to a fresh set of polished rims? Looks interesting, was gonna have my Street Lites powdercoated clear, but I think I may try that stuff instead. Looks easy to maintain if you have an issue, strip with lacquer thinner and reapply.
#14
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Been researching this more, I'm going to go with ShineSeal - it's the newer improved/renamed zoopseal. You can get a Master or Mini kit, Mini will get 4 wheels done, master comes with more stuff and a remover solution if you want to remove and reapply. In a daily car it'll last a year, in a non-daily nice weather driver probably quite a while. More info here...
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=46658
http://www.montecarloss.com/communit...&Number=993375
(Middle of that last thread covers application)
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=46658
http://www.montecarloss.com/communit...&Number=993375
(Middle of that last thread covers application)
#15
Thanks guys. Haven't been back to this thread in a while & hadn't realized there was more information shared.
Am almost done removing old paint. The stripper did a great job on the paint itself. The primer underneath was more difficult. Have used a combo of varying grit sand paper, scotchbrite pad & wire wheel. The finish is not gouged or damaged & appears that it will polish very well.
Am almost done removing old paint. The stripper did a great job on the paint itself. The primer underneath was more difficult. Have used a combo of varying grit sand paper, scotchbrite pad & wire wheel. The finish is not gouged or damaged & appears that it will polish very well.