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I've been running a square 17x11 50mm backspacing 315's with a 1/4" concentric spacer and NT05's on my daily driver since I stopped autocrossing back in 2009. I like the 17's because tires are less expensive than the 18's, albeit there is less selection. Whatever I could save in rotating wheel mass with an 18" wheel was lost by the higher weight tire. Might want to keep in mind what brake system you may want to use in the future in selecting your wheels now. Some folks are okay with grinding on rotors (I'm not); if you're not, you might need larger diameter wheels to fit that brake kit.
Biggest worry I had when I was getting my 315 square setup was how everyone was saying how the car will pull and yank through all the ruts. Turns out it's a non-issue. I'm not running the most aggressive alignment (-1.25 camber, 6.00 caster, no toe) but I can drive with one hand most of the time. Grip is just ridiculous. At my last autocross not only did I set the fastest time of the day, but each instructor that rode with me was speechless by the end of the run, apparently these cars are not supposed to handle well. No one told me
Biggest worry I had when I was getting my 315 square setup was how everyone was saying how the car will pull and yank through all the ruts. Turns out it's a non-issue. I'm not running the most aggressive alignment (-1.25 camber, 6.00 caster, no toe) but I can drive with one hand most of the time. Grip is just ridiculous. At my last autocross not only did I set the fastest time of the day, but each instructor that rode with me was speechless by the end of the run, apparently these cars are not supposed to handle well. No one told me
You can increase camber and add about 1/8" toe out to get real good turn in response. But the car may become "darty" on the street.
You can increase camber and add about 1/8" toe out to get real good turn in response. But the car may become "darty" on the street.
Car looks great
I'll have to try that. Unrelated question but is it possible to change the steering ratio on these cars? On some of the tighter courses I'm having to shuffle the wheel as I can't put enough angle down if I keep my hands fixed at 9' and 3'.
I'll have to try that. Unrelated question but is it possible to change the steering ratio on these cars? On some of the tighter courses I'm having to shuffle the wheel as I can't put enough angle down if I keep my hands fixed at 9' and 3'.
I'll have to try that. Unrelated question but is it possible to change the steering ratio on these cars? On some of the tighter courses I'm having to shuffle the wheel as I can't put enough angle down if I keep my hands fixed at 9' and 3'.
It won't change the cars ratio so your hands will still be in the same position on the steering wheel when turning X sharp if I'm not mistaken, but one thing that should liven and quicken your steering is a smaller diameter steering wheel. A 350 MM is a pretty common size and comes factory in cars like EVO's. I believe that our facorty steering wheel has about a 15.250" diameter and a 350 mm wheel should be about a 13.779" diameter if using exact #'s.
It really doesn't make your car perform any better, but it instead improves your performance as your not moving your hands as far to get to any given angle of a circle with a smaller diameter wheel as opposed to having a larger radius to go around with a larger diameter wheel.
It won't change the cars ratio so your hands will still be in the same position on the steering wheel when turning X sharp if I'm not mistaken, but one thing that should liven and quicken your steering is a smaller diameter steering wheel. A 350 MM is a pretty common size and comes factory in cars like EVO's. I believe that our facorty steering wheel has about a 15.250" diameter and a 350 mm wheel should be about a 13.779" diameter if using exact #'s.
It really doesn't make your car perform any better, but it instead improves your performance as your not moving your hands as far to get to any given angle of a circle with a smaller diameter wheel as opposed to having a larger radius to go around with a larger diameter wheel.
Ohhh yea I did away with that old school bus steering wheel. Got me a nice momo Eagle. Much easier to control the car but still feel like I need a tighter rack.
Ohhh yea I did away with that old school bus steering wheel. Got me a nice momo Eagle. Much easier to control the car but still feel like I need a tighter rack.
Nice! You're already ahead of me. I've said it before that one of my least favorite things on a Fbody is the steering wheel. It feels outdated and certainly it doesn't feel like a steering wheel for a performance car. I know MOMO makes a great wheel as a factory steering wheel in a EVO is excellent.
Biggest worry I had when I was getting my 315 square setup was how everyone was saying how the car will pull and yank through all the ruts. Turns out it's a non-issue. I'm not running the most aggressive alignment (-1.25 camber, 6.00 caster, no toe) but I can drive with one hand most of the time. Grip is just ridiculous. At my last autocross not only did I set the fastest time of the day, but each instructor that rode with me was speechless by the end of the run, apparently these cars are not supposed to handle well. No one told me
What are the details on this set up? The car looks incredible. I'd like to know what wheels those are too.
What are the details on this set up? The car looks incredible. I'd like to know what wheels those are too.
Thanks! Mods in sig but car is designed for handling so it basically has full suspension and a few bolt-ons. Wheels are Forgestar F14's in 18x11 (all around).
Originally Posted by scarfache
Just installed my new wheels and tires. Definitely a tight fit but no rub at all.
I only have 100 street miles on them, but so far they are pretty good. They are very slick when cold, but when warmed up, they are very grippy. On a couple on ramps that I took at a high speed, the understeer that came up happened very progressively and was predictable. I have a SOLO event on Sunday and can't wait to see how the car performs then. I'll update with how I like the tires after that. I am really hoping BFG comes out with a rival again in my size.
I only have 100 street miles on them, but so far they are pretty good. They are very slick when cold, but when warmed up, they are very grippy. On a couple on ramps that I took at a high speed, the understeer that came up happened very progressively and was predictable. I have a SOLO event on Sunday and can't wait to see how the car performs then. I'll update with how I like the tires after that. I am really hoping BFG comes out with a rival again in my size.
They do, it's called a 315/30/18 lol
If you run factory rear lower control arms then pay attention to the minumum clearance to the lip of the LCA to the tire. I run a different style wheel with the same specs as you are and a 295 Michelin Sport Cup tire. I have no spacers and OEM studs.
I needed to clearance my wheel well toward the front as well as the LCA due to tire deflection under hard corners. I would HIGHLY advise to look into this before running on Sunday.
If you run factory rear lower control arms then pay attention to the minumum clearance to the lip of the LCA to the tire. I run a different style wheel with the same specs as you are and a 295 Michelin Sport Cup tire. I have no spacers and OEM studs.
I needed to clearance my wheel well toward the front as well as the LCA due to tire deflection under hard corners. I would HIGHLY advise to look into this before running on Sunday.
I have UMI rear LCAs. Clearance out back is good, front is what i'm worried about. I lifted it up the other day to check for wear and everything looks good right now. I'll check again after sunday to see if the more aggressive driving exposes any problem areas.
love that setup ^^^ I was originally going to go with the black 18x10.5 c6 zo6 wheels before I decided on the Welds. I also have the same exact tires with over 6000 miles on them and will be needing to replace them this winter. they are great tires, very grippy when warm, get some good suspension under the car and you will be hard pressed to under steer on the street
love that setup ^^^ I was originally going to go with the black 18x10.5 c6 zo6 wheels before I decided on the Welds. I also have the same exact tires with over 6000 miles on them and will be needing to replace them this winter. they are great tires, very grippy when warm, get some good suspension under the car and you will be hard pressed to under steer on the street
You are much better off with the Welds than the aftermarket C6 wheels. Weight difference not to mention quality would be in the back of my head.
That said, I'm knowingly getting into 18x10.5 OE Wheels setup only because I can't afford Welds/CCW/Forgeline etc. Well I could EVENTUALLY (just save money), but I don't race enough to justify that cost.
Bought used 315/30/18 A6's this weekend. Need to sell my current setup and buy a square 18x10.5, then to get the SKF race hubs to work so I don't kill hubs...winter project LOL
I had my first autocross event yesterday and I did have some clearance issues with the inner fender well, but other than that they everything worked out great.
As for weld wheels, I'm sure they are much higher quality and much lighter than these. This setup is interim until I build my skills and make sure I enjoy AutoX.
Once I do, I plan on going with a set of Forgelines and a 315/30-18 setup on Rival S tires and a pair of Hoosier Performance Engineering hubs. The car is going into storage in a few weeks so not investing much more into it right now.
I had my first autocross event yesterday and I did have some clearance issues with the inner fender well, but other than that they everything worked out great.
As for weld wheels, I'm sure they are much higher quality and much lighter than these. This setup is interim until I build my skills and make sure I enjoy AutoX.
Once I do, I plan on going with a set of Forgelines and a 315/30-18 setup on Rival S tires and a pair of Hoosier Performance Engineering hubs. The car is going into storage in a few weeks so not investing much more into it right now.
The other option is to run adapters to use off the shelf SKF C5 racing hubs (X-Trackers) Member on Frrax makes them. Something to look into. Hubs plus adapters are about the same cost as HPE Hubs. HPE are rebuild able, but not sure what is involved in that. I woudn't mind a rebuild able setup as long as the parts I freshen up are NOT specific to HPE. Meaning I can buy new bearings etc from any place.
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