weld prostars and caliper grinding!!!!!
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weld prostars and caliper grinding!!!!! ok, I did a search and read a lot before starting this mod.....but I have a question.
and I realize this topic has been beat to death around here, but hell, thats what the board is for.....HELP!!!, right??
ok, so I have 15 x 10 prostars for the rear of my 98 TA. ive been grinding calipers for what seems like FOR FREAKING EVER. are you guys CERTAIN that the integrity of the caliper isnt affected?
also, im using a 5/16 spacer.
are any of you guys doing it without the spacer? if so, how much more grinding is required?
thanks in advance.
and I realize this topic has been beat to death around here, but hell, thats what the board is for.....HELP!!!, right??
ok, so I have 15 x 10 prostars for the rear of my 98 TA. ive been grinding calipers for what seems like FOR FREAKING EVER. are you guys CERTAIN that the integrity of the caliper isnt affected?
also, im using a 5/16 spacer.
are any of you guys doing it without the spacer? if so, how much more grinding is required?
thanks in advance.
You should have read more and took the suggestions of many and picked up our Bogarts where you wouldn't have these issues...seriously, that wasn't meant as a smart *** comment so don't take offense...I'm in a punchy mood...lol Bogarts aren't for everyone...
Regarding grinding, some folks have to do more then others as tolorances vary between cars. You may have a bit more material to remove...keep doing it slowly, put the rim on, check for clearance and redo if necesary. You'll get there, it will just take time. Use tape on the corners of the calper to see where it it rubbing.
There is a good write-up that was made not too long ago.
Do NOT run those rims without longer studs. You need at LEAST ARP 2.5 studs (actually 2.03 inches of threading)...3 inch studs would be better...i.e. moroso 1/2x20 studs.
10 inch rims are the best option for our cars if you want to fit larger rubber under the car...welds draglite/prostars are the only option besides our Bogarts which I designed for F-bodies. Bogart's are in a completely different class design. It's hard to compare an economy rim to a high class rim. Obviously there are price differences that some don't want to spend the difference on or can afford. You made the right choice for choosing an economy rim.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll get there, just keep at it taking a bit off at a time.
Steve
Pres.
Regarding grinding, some folks have to do more then others as tolorances vary between cars. You may have a bit more material to remove...keep doing it slowly, put the rim on, check for clearance and redo if necesary. You'll get there, it will just take time. Use tape on the corners of the calper to see where it it rubbing.
There is a good write-up that was made not too long ago.
Do NOT run those rims without longer studs. You need at LEAST ARP 2.5 studs (actually 2.03 inches of threading)...3 inch studs would be better...i.e. moroso 1/2x20 studs.
10 inch rims are the best option for our cars if you want to fit larger rubber under the car...welds draglite/prostars are the only option besides our Bogarts which I designed for F-bodies. Bogart's are in a completely different class design. It's hard to compare an economy rim to a high class rim. Obviously there are price differences that some don't want to spend the difference on or can afford. You made the right choice for choosing an economy rim.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll get there, just keep at it taking a bit off at a time.
Steve
Pres.
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by steve10
You should have read more and took the suggestions of many and picked up our Bogarts where you wouldn't have these issues...seriously, that wasn't meant as a smart *** comment so don't take offense...I'm in a punchy mood...lol Bogarts aren't for everyone...
Regarding grinding, some folks have to do more then others as tolorances vary between cars. You may have a bit more material to remove...keep doing it slowly, put the rim on, check for clearance and redo if necesary. You'll get there, it will just take time. Use tape on the corners of the calper to see where it it rubbing.
There is a good write-up that was made not too long ago.
Do NOT run those rims without longer studs. You need at LEAST ARP 2.5 studs (actually 2.03 inches of threading)...3 inch studs would be better...i.e. moroso 1/2x20 studs.
10 inch rims are the best option for our cars if you want to fit larger rubber under the car...welds draglite/prostars are the only option besides our Bogarts which I designed for F-bodies. Bogart's are in a completely different class design. It's hard to compare an economy rim to a high class rim. Obviously there are price differences that some don't want to spend the difference on or can afford. You made the right choice for choosing an economy rim.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll get there, just keep at it taking a bit off at a time.
Steve
Pres.
Regarding grinding, some folks have to do more then others as tolorances vary between cars. You may have a bit more material to remove...keep doing it slowly, put the rim on, check for clearance and redo if necesary. You'll get there, it will just take time. Use tape on the corners of the calper to see where it it rubbing.
There is a good write-up that was made not too long ago.
Do NOT run those rims without longer studs. You need at LEAST ARP 2.5 studs (actually 2.03 inches of threading)...3 inch studs would be better...i.e. moroso 1/2x20 studs.
10 inch rims are the best option for our cars if you want to fit larger rubber under the car...welds draglite/prostars are the only option besides our Bogarts which I designed for F-bodies. Bogart's are in a completely different class design. It's hard to compare an economy rim to a high class rim. Obviously there are price differences that some don't want to spend the difference on or can afford. You made the right choice for choosing an economy rim.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll get there, just keep at it taking a bit off at a time.
Steve
Pres.
first of all, TRUST ME, I want bogarts.....I just didnt have the money. I found these wheels used. At this point, im seriously considering selling them and getting bogarts. The caliper grinding is a real PITA.
the ARP studs are already ordered and should be here tomorrow.
I may run these wheels the rest of this year, since money is tight....and sell them this winter, and place an order for the bogarts.
one more question. how difficult is it to install the studs on my Moser 12 bolt. im assuming pulling the axles is fairly easy with the c clip eliminator desing. just never done it before.
again, thanks for the reply.
I'm glad that you didn't take my comment in a smart *** way...I surely didn't mean to be demeaning with your choices in any way.
Fairly straight forward with C-clips. It's actually easier to install 3 inch screw type studs if you didn't get the other ones yet. Just use the standard hole pattern instead. The new studs will just screw right in verses pulling (or pressing) them into place. If your pulling them into place (with lugs), be certain your not using higher then recomended torque to do this as you will stretch the stud creating stress fractures (at worse, necking) creating a weaker overall stud.
Once your clearanced, just press out the old ones. Be careful hammering them out (if you have left your axle assembly in place) as you can damage bearings and/or the races if you leave them in the axle assembly while pounding them out.
Good luck.
Steve
Pres.
Fairly straight forward with C-clips. It's actually easier to install 3 inch screw type studs if you didn't get the other ones yet. Just use the standard hole pattern instead. The new studs will just screw right in verses pulling (or pressing) them into place. If your pulling them into place (with lugs), be certain your not using higher then recomended torque to do this as you will stretch the stud creating stress fractures (at worse, necking) creating a weaker overall stud.
Once your clearanced, just press out the old ones. Be careful hammering them out (if you have left your axle assembly in place) as you can damage bearings and/or the races if you leave them in the axle assembly while pounding them out.
Good luck.
Steve
Pres.
I run 15x10 Pro Stars, and no spacers.
All the clearancing is done on the front edge of the caliper, where it starts to curve. I have stopped from 150-160mph with mine a number of times and not had a problem.
Pro Stars are cheaper than Bogarts and that's the only reason I have them.
All the clearancing is done on the front edge of the caliper, where it starts to curve. I have stopped from 150-160mph with mine a number of times and not had a problem.
Pro Stars are cheaper than Bogarts and that's the only reason I have them.
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steve,
im not sure if you missunderstood me, or if I missunderstood your response....but heres the question again.
my Moser 12 bolt does NOT have c clips. (im assumingthis actually..but didnt think any of them had them)
so how difficult is it to pull the axles? im assuming I do not have to remove the rear cover.
how are the axles in these rearends held in?
anyone??
im not sure if you missunderstood me, or if I missunderstood your response....but heres the question again.
my Moser 12 bolt does NOT have c clips. (im assumingthis actually..but didnt think any of them had them)
so how difficult is it to pull the axles? im assuming I do not have to remove the rear cover.
how are the axles in these rearends held in?
anyone??
I dont' believe any of them have c-clips either...I just forgot the word "eliminator" at the end of c-clip...
actually, its simple with c-clips or without...you may not get as dirty from the fluid, with the "eliminator,s" but it still farily easy. You should be able to unbolt each retainer from the moser housing with a few bolts (I believe 4 of them). The axle assem should slip out at this point..
be careful you don't damage seals when your sliding the rear axle out...it's heavier then you may think also when it comes out, so hold on to it tightly.
Steve
Pres.
actually, its simple with c-clips or without...you may not get as dirty from the fluid, with the "eliminator,s" but it still farily easy. You should be able to unbolt each retainer from the moser housing with a few bolts (I believe 4 of them). The axle assem should slip out at this point..
be careful you don't damage seals when your sliding the rear axle out...it's heavier then you may think also when it comes out, so hold on to it tightly.
Steve
Pres.
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From: Chi-Town, IL
I run 15x10 prostars in the rear, I completely took out the bump stops, grinded them flush w/the body.....It took about 40 mins of solid grinding on both sides to get them down to where I needed them, I run a 5/16 spacer w/extended studs...keep at it and you will get there 
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Originally Posted by BIGBOS
I run 15x10 prostars in the rear, I completely took out the bump stops, grinded them flush w/the body.....It took about 40 mins of solid grinding on both sides to get them down to where I needed them, I run a 5/16 spacer w/extended studs...keep at it and you will get there
??
They're the rubber pieces that keep the rearend from bottoming out on the frame if the axle goes up that high. Right above the axle on the inner rear fender, triangular shaped I think. I ground the hell out of mine, and still need a little more to go b/c they scuff a little when the brakes get hot.
