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He's not racing the car competitively... it's a 1000hp toy/fun car
Exactly.
Land - Not wanting your tires to stick out past your fenders isn't an unreasonable thing. Running 335 square is impressive, but you're sacrificing looks - in the opinion of some at least. If that's what it takes to be the fastest on the track fine, but it looks ***-y. You don't care about looks, fine. Would it have been better if OP replaced the word "ricer" with "looks like ***"? ****, you could get 545's to fit if you don't care how much they protrude from the wheel well.
I stopped reading here. Can't take anyone seriously who uses that term, and fast is fast. I'll keep the "ricer" look and laugh at all the weenies that are slower.
Dude......You think if my tires stuck out FURTHER than the edge of my fenders.....that it would look good.....LOL
Are you f'ing kidding me. In the picture of your car, it doesn't look like your tires are sticking out very far.....but if they are sticking out 1 inch or more from the edge of the fender....thats laughable....IN MY OPINION. I would actually stop walking if I saw a car like that, take off my sunglasses...and laugh out loud until my stomach starting hurting......
I can care less what the car does on a road course.....my car IS NOT a road course car.....if it was I would build it to perform best on a road course. My car is a street car, street use ONLY, no drag racing, no road course racing......
Therefore, once again....stiffer springs is ridiculous as a fix to fitting 335 tires on....LITERALLY HILARIOUS.....thats a RICER look and a RICER fix to a problem.
I want my car to keep its nice stance, and even though its lowered, its factory look except for wider tires on the back.
Therefore, once again....stiffer springs is ridiculous as a fix to fitting 335 tires on....LITERALLY HILARIOUS.....thats a RICER look and a RICER fix to a problem.
Says the guy only concerned about looks and stance
Says the guy only concerned about looks and stance
Yes, says me.....the guy who wants proper looks and a normal stance for my car.
I thought that was so clear in my posts.
I do not want a car with tires sticking out of the fender wells like many ricers do on purpose...for that look........that does NOT look proper and is not a normal looking car......it looks stupid.
Says the guy only concerned about looks and stance
Says the guy at autocross event cutting vertical slits in his rear fenders with a cut off wheel to be able to pull them outward to not have fender/tire contact just because adding fender flares will "add weight"....
landstuhltaylor is all about function over anything else pushing SCCA class rules to the limit. You are right, sticking the wheels out and hacking fenders is technically the "easier" way to run 335's LOL.
Others like to make it function AND make it look good in the end. Agree to disagree and move on.
Comparing a non daily driven class built autocross car to a street car...
The approach is right IMO. Your first limit will be outer fender edge. You gain all your width inward to the fender so you modify the inner liner to accommodate. You will need to balance wheel width/offset. It's easier to fit wide wheel/tire combo on a street car, once you start racing and the tires deflect side to side almost 1/2" is when it becomes harder.
You mean move the tires/rim outward with spacers? That would look pretty bad, I would have to move them outward about 2 inches.....It would look like a ricer.....
I don't rub my inner wheel well TUB....as in above and the side of the top tire area. I have NO rubbing at all. I can hit a huge bump in the road and nothing rubs anywhere. The ONLY place I need clearance is directly inward towards the center of the car.....LCA and those ridges and bump stop mount are in the way of me pushing the rim onto my studs.
Right now with my 18 x 10.5 rims, and 315 tires, the rim/tire are in the exact perfect spot and line up exactly with the outer fender lip. Factory look.
I want to keep that. With offset LCAs and cutting out the bump stop and those 3 ridges, and welding in a flat steel plate, will give me the extra 2 inches of clearance on the inside that I need so I do not need spacers. So it will keep that nice alignment with the outside. My springs are very stiff as is....LG Super Springs. I can push all my body weight down on a rear fender and the car does not budge......But its just a street car, thats plenty stiff, no road course competitions.....
This guy below did what I am going to do....works perfectly. Only takes a couple hours to cut and weld both sides. Not really the hard way. Its just "another" way. For cars that were not designed for 335s on the rear.....a few hours in total to get it how I want is nothing.
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These pictures are of my car. I'm running 325/30-19's on factory C6Z wheels. It required a lot more clearing than I wanted to do but I just couldn't find a way to save the factory bumpstops and use these wheels. The wheels/tires would hit them with the car off the ground.
I came up with these to replace the factory stops.
I plan to weld them on the half of the folded tabs that are left of where the factory stops mounted and They should sit at roughly the same height over the axle as the factory stops. They should clear the wheels and tires I just have to keep them away from the springs. Otherwise no problems with the wider setup.
These pictures are of my car. I'm running 325/30-19's on factory C6Z wheels. It required a lot more clearing than I wanted to do but I just couldn't find a way to save the factory bumpstops and use these wheels. The wheels/tires would hit them with the car off the ground.
I came up with these to replace the factory stops.
I plan to weld them on the half of the folded tabs that are left of where the factory stops mounted and They should sit at roughly the same height over the axle as the factory stops. They should clear the wheels and tires I just have to keep them away from the springs. Otherwise no problems with the wider setup.
I see, post some pics once installed.
Also, I have not had bump stops on my rear for about 14-15 years. I took them off when I put my first set of 315 tires on. The mounts are there but no bump stops. I've never had an issue.....so I'm thinking I just won't bother adding any type of custom made bump stops back on.....
I'm thinking the bump stops aren't needed either after looking at everything closer. The worst case over a ridiculous bump (which rarely happens), the torque arm will hit the floor first I think
I'm thinking the bump stops aren't needed either after looking at everything closer. The worst case over a ridiculous bump (which rarely happens), the torque arm will hit the floor first I think
Yup....as far as the springs go....mine are permanently fixed to the axle, they cannot come off. Up top is less of an issue, pretty much impossible for them to come so far down that they can come out.
I'm not putting bump stops back in. I mean we have perfect roads here in South Florida.....there are no crazy bumps.
I'm thinking the bump stops aren't needed either after looking at everything closer. The worst case over a ridiculous bump (which rarely happens), the torque arm will hit the floor first I think
I like your idea in post #39 too.
Or maybe some other kind of way to do it so it has nothing to do with the tire area......
This is one I helped with recently on a 98 SS. 19x12 C6Z wheels with 345 Nittos. LOTS of hammering, fender rolling, adj LCA and panhard, and Ridetechs. He has been driving it for a few months now without issue.
This is one I helped with recently on a 98 SS. 19x12 C6Z wheels with 345 Nittos. LOTS of hammering, fender rolling, adj LCA and panhard, and Ridetechs. He has been driving it for a few months now without issue.
Any more details?
Did he use wheel spacers?
Did he cut the bump-stop area out and those three metal ridges?
Did he use offset LCAs?
What exactly did you have to do to the panhard rod?
Bump stops are still on the car and no spacers. It is very tight, but no rubbing going on now. I will say Nittos are usually narrower than most tires, so that may be a factor too. Might be closer to most 325s or 335s from other manufacturers.
Bump stops are still on the car and no spacers. It is very tight, but no rubbing going on now. I will say Nittos are usually narrower than most tires, so that may be a factor too. Might be closer to most 325s or 335s from other manufacturers.
Bump stops are still on the car and no spacers. It is very tight, but no rubbing going on now. I will say Nittos are usually narrower than most tires, so that may be a factor too. Might be closer to most 325s or 335s from other manufacturers.
There is no damn way this thing doesnt rub something in a hard corner just spirit driving. I have 325's and get the occasional rub and always on driver side no matter what I fix*
There is no damn way this thing doesnt rub something in a hard corner just spirit driving. I have 325's and get the occasional rub and always on driver side no matter what I fix*
Not really since tire deflection plays a big role in this whole thing. Yes you can stuff wide tires but if you don't corner hard, chances are you may not see rubbing.
I saw at LEAST 1/4" of clearance reduced to rubbing when in aggressive cornering. Therefore, anytime I do something I shoot for 1/2"+ clearance.
Not really since tire deflection plays a big role in this whole thing. Yes you can stuff wide tires but if you don't corner hard, chances are you may not see rubbing.
I saw at LEAST 1/4" of clearance reduced to rubbing when in aggressive cornering. Therefore, anytime I do something I shoot for 1/2"+ clearance.
True too... I was just mainly commenting on his 1-side issue, driver side rubs not passenger side. Probably just have more overall clearance on passenger side
10-30-2017, 08:11 AM
