lowering?
lowering? Hey guys. I'm prob. gonna get some new rims for my TA this winter and was wondering how much extra money would be needed to get rid of the wheel gap. I know I could pick up some used springs for like 150 or so, but what else is needed. The car is just a street car. I'm not auto crossing. What are some good shocks that fit a college budget. I'm thinking I may have to wait until summer to lower it if I spend 2000 on wheels/tires, but I'd like to get it done at one time.
Well, if you come across a set of springs you want that are cheap, scoop them up and install them. If your factory shocks are in relativly good shape you should be able to get a few months out of them before you notice any wear. Depending on how low you go you will probrably pick up some wheel hop and will want to install some relocation brackets for the LCAs. A good shock for a low budget is probrably the revalved Bilsteins. If your in no hurry I would just wait for some good used parts to come up. If you do your own work you can probrably do springs, shocks and relocation brackets for under $500 if your a trifty shopper. 
BTW: You will need an alignment, not sure what shops are charging for that now (maybe $75).
BTW: You will need an alignment, not sure what shops are charging for that now (maybe $75).
Originally Posted by skippythetaco
I bought my brand new sportlines for 180$ their easy to install, and it rides good and looks alot meaner. My friend has intrax and they look really well too, so either way your good.
Originally Posted by 5POINT7
I'm lowered on stock shocks with the Eibach pro kit and BMR lca's/panhard rod. Some people will tell you it is absolutely necessary to get an alignment afterwards, I didn't and my car rides straight.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,938
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Have you kept track of your tire wear? My car has a bunch of positive camber from when I lowered the front even more. It still drives nice and straight but the very inner edge of front tires is wearing alot faster.
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i'd recommend upgrading your shocks while you are doing the springs. the stock shocks can rarely support the spring rates of stock springs for 20k miles, much less a stiffer spring for anywhere near that same amount of time. it's a pain in the *** to install the shocks and/or springs usually, so if you are going to do it once, you might as well get everything done in that one instance. i can assure you that a few thousand miles down the road you will be replacing those stock shocks, or see that you need to.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Louisville,KY
Originally Posted by tuffluck
i'd recommend upgrading your shocks while you are doing the springs. the stock shocks can rarely support the spring rates of stock springs for 20k miles, much less a stiffer spring for anywhere near that same amount of time. it's a pain in the *** to install the shocks and/or springs usually, so if you are going to do it once, you might as well get everything done in that one instance. i can assure you that a few thousand miles down the road you will be replacing those stock shocks, or see that you need to.
Originally Posted by GAME OVER
theres a guy on ebay who sells the eibach pro kit for $80
I have the Prokit on my car and just an BMR adj panhard rod when it was lowered on the stock panhard the rear wheels both moved about 2 or 3 inches to the left and caused more wear on one tire than the other, but i have the prokit on stock shocks and stock LCAs with the BMR panhard, my rear end doesnt sag, if anything the front is lower