What race wheels don't require grinding?
10-11-2005, 08:21 PM
#21
Originally Posted by longrange4u
...I will of course have to side by side compare the price vs. reward. Are we talking a 3-400+ price difference?
High-ended wheels like weld alumastars 2's or our Bogarts, Fiske etc use high-quality material...finished are also a concern. We are known for our high-polished show-quality appearance.
I understand many folks like the way their wheels weld prostars, centerlines draglites look. I do admit I like many of the styles I see in pictures. In person, just as a car that use replica wheels, they may look good in pictures, but next to the real thing, there is no comparison. The low end wheels fit the requirement of cost as a main concern...finish, weight takes a backseat.
Take any high-end show-quality wheel and put it next to an ecomomy series wheel...it really is a night and day difference. Take a weld alumastar 2 and put it next to a prostar...unbelievable qualty and workmanship difference.
I receive comments quite often regarding my Bogart owners whom mention they have folks coming up to their car to see the wheels and can't believe the finished quality. We are known for this...asside for the weight of the wheels.
Wheels make or break cars...it's one of the most visiable and car-altering modifications. I personally would not want to skimp on this area since everyone sees it as well as you too everytime you step into the car. Of course, in the end, sometimes cost is a main concern. To me, I'd rather do something once and do it the best. We receive many customers whom start with weld ecomomy series wheels then move over to our wheels later on.
...ok enough rambling. I hope I haven't taken up too much of anyone time. Hopefully i've enlighten some of you and not bored others too much...lol
10-11-2005, 10:21 PM
#22
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Steve- I know your a bit biased on all this. But good info and I appreciate that your not bashing the "other guys". Everyone knows that Bogarts are some of the best... just not everyone has the dollars to go with the best all the time...
10-16-2005, 11:25 AM
#25
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Alright, good info, but I've found a set of Prostars in town for cheap, I know with 5/16 spacer in the front, they'll fit without grinding, and I know the rear will require grinding. Is it also required that you get different studs? because I got to looking and it seems like a hell of a lot of trouble to change some damn wheel studs.
10-16-2005, 11:36 AM
#26
You absolutly positivly should be using longer studs at least 2.5 inches long...YOU NEED THEM ON THE FRONTS ALSO...even that won't pass tech if you were at the track. You really need at least 3 inches.
There are folks whom don't change it...can you do it? of course, you can do whatever you wish...would I do it? No way. Not when you're supporting a wheel by ~5 turns on a thread. You are relying solely on the thin shank portion of the lug...the very end at that to keep your wheel on.
There are folks whom don't change it...can you do it? of course, you can do whatever you wish...would I do it? No way. Not when you're supporting a wheel by ~5 turns on a thread. You are relying solely on the thin shank portion of the lug...the very end at that to keep your wheel on.
10-16-2005, 12:22 PM
#27
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Well I definately can't pull the axles and all that stuff to put them on, so how much would I get charged to have that done? and would that affect the way my TTII's looks during street use? Becuase I'll only be using the Prostars for track use.
10-16-2005, 03:22 PM
#28
Not sure how much it will cost you. Probably 1-2 hours of labor rate at least.
Attached is a picture courtesy of Fred "injuneer" on camaroz28.com. This shows how the longer studs look on his car. These are ARP studs.
Take the good with the bad I suppose. OR purchase wheels that dont have super thick centers and don't require as long of studs, Or just drive and take your chances at the track...you can run if tech doesn't stop you.
Changing the studs is a good idea due to increased traction placing a higher sheer load on your studs. They do and have broken on our cars.
Attached is a picture courtesy of Fred "injuneer" on camaroz28.com. This shows how the longer studs look on his car. These are ARP studs.
Take the good with the bad I suppose. OR purchase wheels that dont have super thick centers and don't require as long of studs, Or just drive and take your chances at the track...you can run if tech doesn't stop you.
Changing the studs is a good idea due to increased traction placing a higher sheer load on your studs. They do and have broken on our cars.
10-16-2005, 04:38 PM
#29
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Alright, thanks Steve. The track here doesn't care at all about anything, only rule is you got to have a helmet if you run under 11.2 in the 1000ft (it's a 1000ft track, no 1/4 here).
10-16-2005, 06:01 PM
#30
Just because the track doesn't care, doesn't mean you shouldn't. It is very unsafe to drive the car with thick-centered prostars or draglites running stock studs especially when you run spacers. The studs barely go halfway through the wheel. To save a few dollars over damaging your car or loosing your life isn't worth the risk in my book.
You or any other folks may want to reconsider taking such large risks to save a few dollars. There are other areas where skimping may be better suited.
You or any other folks may want to reconsider taking such large risks to save a few dollars. There are other areas where skimping may be better suited.
