TA4U2NV

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking for a set of wheels to put some ET streets on the rear and skinnies up front. What are the requirements to not have to grind the calipers? Also, what would be a good skinny tire to run up front? I've hear horror stories of not having a strong enough tire up front, and it busting. Can anyone help?

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

i was gonna say bogarts....thanks sjm

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Our Bogarts are built specifically for the LS1. Pictures of various setups can be seen on our site. Look at the customer gallery to get a better idea of fitment as well as appearance.

Best choice in DOT front tire would be MTT-1573 which is speed and load rated for your car.

jerflash

convo pros form centerline
im running the front on my car now and they are awsome
15x4", 1 3/4" back space, 4 3/4" bolt pattern
they fit perfect and are much lighter then stock and are very cheap...260 for the pair and 60 buck for pair of tires form pepboys

as for the back you have a choice 15x7.5" with the 5" backspace fit perfect but are a lil small but you can still stick a 275/50/15 on there and be good or you can put the 15x8.5" with a 5" backspace and they will stick out about an inch

i run the skinny convo pros on the fron of my car as my regular street rim and im getting the 15x7.5" rims for the back for street use with some 275 nitto rubber on them

all together the convo pro rims will set you back 600 buck for both front and rear rims without tires and they look bad ***

but if i had more cash i would be running borgarts at the track but i dont have the funds for that. they are lighter then the convos and you can get a 15x10 in the back that will fit awsome but they will tell you that they sould not be run on the street and i would not run them on the street either

borgarts are a great rim and made for are cars but i wanted a cheap rim and tire combo for my car for the streat as well as the track and since its only a weekend car the 15s and the skinies dont bother me and it makes it look like a racecar

stangkiller

got any pics?

sslow2000

iTrader: (12)

i have to agree with you on the convo pros... ive been running them on my car for a few months now and love them... didn't have to grind anything at all.. and they look badass! i actually found my set used on ebay for pretty cheap... so they're fairly easy to find good deals on..

stangkiller

got any pics?

11SECDWS6

iTrader: (3)

Were these Convos 15X10 or 15X8?

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

I think they'd have to be 8". I doubt you can get 10" wide without grinding the brake calipers. If these are 15X10 I am sold if you do not have to grind like you do Weld Draglites.

Chopstix

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-tires/392563-28-tire-convo-pro-pics.html

pics of convo pro's

I have eibach lowering springs on the front and stock on the rear w/28" tires
Withe stock springs and 26" tire there will not be as much rake

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Being 8 or 10 inches wide has little to do with fitment over the calipers. The issue that cannot be corrected is the caliper overhang. The width does not address this issue.

A weld or centerline 15x8 does not have the correct backspace for stock length F-body rears. The largest you can obtain is 5.5 which will pushes your wheel 3/4" out of the fender well farther then a stock 8 inch wheel.

Runnning larger tires are also prohibited by smaller 8 inch wheels. This can be viewed from the above link. From the rear, the wheels are not centered and protrude quite a bit. I'm not knocking the setup by any means. If you are happy with it, that is all that matters.

The centerline 10's are a poor choice in comparison to the weld low-end wheels as they do not offer a large enough backspace that makes the wheels stick out even further. If you're on a budget, choose a weld prostar or draglite. If you want a higher quality wheel choose our Bogart wheels. We created 10 inch wheels that you can run a 27x11.5 tire without modifications. The tire is correctly centered in the fender area. If you prefer to stay with an 8 inch wheel, we set our BS near the stock configuration so that the wheels do not protrude from the fender area.

Differences of our setups from a weight standpoint...run a set of prostar or draglites or centerlines is like leaving ~40 lbs of converted static weight on your car in comparison to our wheels. 40 lbs is quite a lot of weight. I see many folks purchasing aftermarket go-fast parts and spending more then the difference just to get near a 40 lb weight loss.

Certainly our wheels aren't for everyone. They are not outrageously priced either....purchase a set of weld alumastars and you will end up spending MORE then a set of F-body setup Bogart’s. Weld manufactures high-ended wheels also...obviously their alumastars meet similar specs as ours.

Considering wheels make or break a cars appearance...don't overlook the most seen area of your car asside from your paint job.

Just something to consider.


Hope this helps,

Steve

Chopstix

iTrader: (1)

I agree with every thing you said....The convo's aren't the best fit for the stock length F-body rear. A set of Bogarts are in my future, I love the D-10's

??? on your weight comment:
17x9.5 01 WS6 wheel w/275-40-17 52#
15x8.5 Convo w/28x11.5-15 ET street 29#

what do the Bogarts weigh?

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

chopstix,

I am happy that you did not take offense to my statements. I certainly did not mean to insult you or any person using setups similar to yours regarding how the wheels tuck.

I believe many do not realize differences from going from a stock 8 inch wheel to the centerline or weld 8 inch wheel. I base my conclusions from the fact that many still do purchase them possibly under mis-information.

The fact is, 8 inch wheels limit the F-bodies usage of larger (wider) tires. As previously commented, the backspace limits on a weld or centerline is 5.5. This is .75 inches smaller then a stock 8 inch wheel which is correctly centered. When you place the smaller backspace on the car, the wheel will appear quite off-center. You may have noticed this also…especially from viewing the car from the rear. There is a lot of empty space that is left open on the inside of a car that uses an 8 inch weld or centerline. This further amplifies this effect of the wheel and tire “sticking out”.

26x11.5 and 27’s fit easily in our cars and are the recommended tire size for a 10 inch wheel, not 8. By limiting yourself with an 8 inch wheel, you are further limiting your tire selection. Since traction is always an issue, why handicap your car. I can understand if you are limited to a certain tire size during a race, but for no other reason. Since 26x11.5 and similar width tires are the standard, why use smaller? Certainly you can stuff ranges of tires on a wheel, though this is not recommended best fit. Tire failure and bead failure can be a concern when using too large of a tire on too small of wheel.

Regarding weights, my statements are based off of a conversion factor. Centerline states the conversion factor for rotational weight to static weight is 1-(6-8)… for every 1 lb of rotational weight add 6-8 lbs of STATIC weight to your car. (I am going off of the top of my head on this one…you can verify this in their faq section.). These conversions vary based on where the weight is placed on the rotating object. i.e. a 10 lb wheel is not like every 10lb wheel. Move more of the weight out and the wheel worsen rotational losses. This is very prevalent in tire selection. Using a 325 drag radial for example weighs ~35 lbs!!! Using a similar sized ET street will net ~22 lbs. In this case, you are ADDING 32lbs of additional rotational mass! In the worst place possible. Braking distances will be affected as well as 60ft times.

Back to the wheels... A typical centerline or weld Prostar or draglite wheel i.e. 15x10 weighs ~15 lbs/wheel (centerlines are the heaviest overall). A typical LS1 Bogart P1 wheel on average weighs at max 11 lbs. The difference in front runners between the LS1 Bogart built wheel and the others average total easily 2 lbs. So if we average 10 lbs less rotational mass…using a conservative factor of 1-4 ratios, 10 lbs of rotational weight is similar to 40 lbs of static weight. Overall weight depend on how we build the wheel…we can build a front runner down to ~6.75 lbs/wheel!

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

One other comment I'd like to state...our wheels are worth every dollar spent. You are receiving a high-end wheel at a very good value. Ease of fitment, style, materials used and weights are all important factors when considering a drag wheel.

Our wheels are made specifically for the application, materials are high-grade 6061, highly polished to a mirror finish. Similar high-end weld products are actually MORE expensive then our wheels. We are not the highest price on the market against popular belief. I do feel we are the best. If one compares a lower end weld prostar or centerline wheel to a high-end wheel...then I suppose we look "high" in pricing. It is hard to compare a ferrari to a fiero...there are differences between the two also.

Weight does matter...maybe not to everyone. Quality of finish does matter, maybe not to everyone. Style does matter, maybe not to everyone. As long as each person meets their goals, that is all that matters.

One area I do not understand is when I see someone spend quite a bit of money to save 35 lbs...i.e. hood, k-member etc. Sure these are fantasic mods, but do cost quite a bit of money more then the differnece in cost for our wheels in comparison to ecomomy style wheels.

Are those mods worth it, certainly!! I recommend it if you want to loose the mass. But for those folks neglecting the fact that they can save quite a bit of weight (similar weights) with wheels but they overlook it.

Another area is style. Certainly what one like is definitly in the eye of the beholder...I feel though, looking at any high-ended wheel i.e. high-end weld or our high end products certainly overshadow ecomomy built wheels. A wheel can make or break a cars appearance...if style is of concern, certainly do not look past the options. Folks don't spend 2000.00 on fiske wheels just because they feel a burn in their pocket. It makes the car look fantastic. Same goes with drag wheels...

It can come down what a person can afford or willing to spend. Our wheels may not fit their limit...looking at the benifits though can certainly lessen this gap.

Many folks can't believe how our wheels look like show-quality wheels when they see them in person. Many sales come from the fact when the consumer saw the wheels on a car at the track and in comparison (even only from a visual standpoint) was sold on our product.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

I have 17X11 Torque Thrust II Classic rear wheels. The back spacing on those is 7.75". So that leaves 3.25" from the mounting surface to the front of the rim. Needless to say, the location of the stock wheels means nothing to me. So, with an 8" wide rim that has 5" back spacing, that leaves 3" from the mounting surface to the front of the rim................that is .25" deeper in the wheel well than the rims I have. Likewise, an 8.5" rim with 5.5" backspacing will still be .25" deeper in the well than my street rims.
This is why I think a 15X8 with 5" backspacing or a 15X8.5 with 5.5" backspacing will work fine for me. If I can find some nice looking 16X8 with 5" backspacing I will really not have to worry about ginding calipers, although they will weigh more ..............................

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

I understand what you are stating. Keep in mind, your 11 inch wheel is correctly centered in your wheel well area. You CANNOT go any further inward, so anything larger obviously can only go out (unless you tub or cut away the inside of a few obstructions).

A short analogy for you or others...take that same 17x11 wheel which you have the correct backspace and the wheel sits centered correctly, now cut off 3 inches ONLY from the inside of your wheel. This is ~how an 8 inch wheel looks in the wheel. It is not centered nor does it look correct from the rear. From the side, sure, it doesn't look bad, just at any other angle, it looks off centered.

To keep a wheel centered and look even, when you take off width from the inside, generally taking off similar width from the outside is standard. This is why the stock wheel is set...where it is centered in the wheel well. This proportionally sets the wheel correctly. A gross overstatment of what you suggesting is if I take a skinny 3.5 inch tire so it sits at the same spot on the outside as your 17x11 looks good and it fits ok? Certainly it will look odd, I'm stating this for you and others so that my point is taken...no one would ever do this of course.

Once again, if your happy with it that that is fine. I would be willing to be most folks IF weld or centerline offered 6-6.5 BS on an 8 inch wheel they would pick it so the wheel is centered better in the wheel well. Bogart wheels are the only wheel that offers this.

I still do not know why folks are choosing an 8 inch wheel in the first place. Unless they cannot run larger wheels i.e. 275/50's or 26x11.5 for a race (which most allow), you are limiting yourself to running only smaller tires on that small 8 inch wheel. Certainly you can stuff the same size wheel on the smaller 8 inch wheel but it is not recommended. This would be like you purchasing a 17x9.5 wheel and stuffing your 315/35 on it. Certainly one can do it, but it is not the recommended setup by the tire manufacture. Tires can break their beads; wear unevenly when you do not use the recommended size.

I'm not trying to create an argument here as certainly the eye is in the beholder...I’m only pointing out a few things regarding choosing a small 8 inch wheel. I'm not trying to sell you or anyone else on our brand wheels. Even though we can make the correct backspace (like stock centering the wheels correctly) for an 8 inch wheel, we RARELY sell these small of a wheel for F-bodies. I can count on one hand how many we have actually made for our cars. A 10 inch wheel is MUCH better suited on our cars and works with much more combination of tires that is standard in most races for late model F-bodies.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

1camwmdr,

I noticed an earlier comment...backspace as well as width has little to do regarding caliper grinding when it comes to choosing an 8 inch or 10 inch wheel. These do not address the primary problem...caliper overhang.

Many folks misunderstand this also...so you are not alone...i'm not picking on you. Just information for everyone.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

Thanks, I understand this better now. I didn't think you were picking on me, I just want all of the angles explained so to speak.


Also about the other psot: I don't think you are actively trying to sell the Bogarts to anyone who is considering Weld ProStars or Draglites, or any Centerlines, etc. Those wheels are not only in a different ballpark, we are talking a different sport . I cannot afford Bogarts. That is the way it is. As to tire size, you cannot seem to get any larger than a 11.5" wide tire unless you go to 28"+ height. I only need a 26" or 27" tall tire at this time. Maybe I should just get 15X10 Welds or Centerlines with 7-7.5" backspacing and run the 26" X 11.5" for now, and then get a 28" X 12-12.5" when I make more power .

longrange4u

iTrader: (2)

This is a great thread... Steve for those of us ignorant to your prices can you give us a range for a reccomended setup front and back?

I dont have alot of money, and I am trying to do alot with my car (I know dosent add up). I would love to have some Bogarts and maybe could squeeze the money from my pet rock, but I will of course have to side by side compare the price vs. reward. Are we talking a 3-400+ price difference?

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Everyone is welcome. I realize sometimes when reading posts...things get misinterpreted. I know in the past some have felt upset that I was stating that a weld prostar or draglite or centerline wheel is inferior to any of our Bogart wheels. Both companies manufactures nice low-pricepointed ecomomy series wheels.

We actually have similar ecomomy style wheels also though I rarely suggest them since you have to grind and jump through hoops to make them work for F-bodies...I would rather not sell something that I know will take quite a bit of work and possibly make a customer angry in the end as some folks have been when they damaged their calipers or spent more time then they wanted like other series.

If you don't have the income to purchase our higher end wheels, then by all means, economy wheels can fit the bill. They are designed with a one size fits all approach which doesn't work too well with late-model cars. There is always some give and take.

Regarding costs for our wheels...prices do vary with how we build them...remember we do not have part numbers...we build a wheel to the spec that is necessary or to reach a customers goal.

I do not want to beat around the bush regarding pricing or deter someone from even considering them. Certainly they are not 700.00 for a set BUT you do not need 3 inch studs to pass tech as with a weld etc, you don't need spacers or grind etc... The best option really if you want to know exactly how much your particular setup costs is to just click my e-mail link below and answer a few simple questions...I would be more then happy to give you an exact price for you shipped to your door. Pricing is not a mystery, it just changes to whatever is necessary to how we build them.