spacer needed for rear 15x8 draglites?
05-10-2006, 12:02 PM
#1
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spacer needed for rear 15x8 draglites? 15x8 with correct backspacing.....ive read that you dont need a spacer if you do LOADS of grinding, but when I bought these rims from a friend they came with 7/16" spacers i believe. I have 5/16 for the front but am wondering what these are for. im not going to do longer studs. just how much am i going to have to grind, or am i gonna HAVE to use at least a 5/16" spacer? thanks guys
05-10-2006, 03:14 PM
#2
I hear you won't need to use any spacers on the back unless you do some minor grinding. The front I hear you have to do more, but it's do-able without spacers. Not much grinding is needed. In the wheel/tire FAQ, look at the drag wheel FAQ and there is a link, click on it and it shows you how much you need to grind down. Did you use spacers for the front, or did you grind down?
Last edited by blind527; 05-10-2006 at 04:05 PM.
05-10-2006, 10:49 PM
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i did it. I had to use a 5/16" spacer up front with no grinding, which i knew... for the rears i grinded until I basically couldnt do too much more and they fit without a spacer
05-25-2006, 01:00 AM
#7
In the fronts, did you use longer wheel studs? How much were they to put in, or did you put them in yourself? I was quoted $250.00 to put them in. I want to run spacers so I don't have to grind, but I also don't want to buy longer wheel studs.
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05-25-2006, 08:49 AM
#9
Originally Posted by blind527
In the fronts, did you use longer wheel studs? How much were they to put in, or did you put them in yourself? I was quoted $250.00 to put them in. I want to run spacers so I don't have to grind, but I also don't want to buy longer wheel studs.
Holy crap some one is bending you over big time......Thats $25 a stud. the studs on the front can be replaced by your self with just a hammer.....
They can be nocked in and then just turn the wheel to do each one.....
05-25-2006, 10:33 AM
#10
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Holy crap some one is bending you over big time......Thats $25 a stud. the studs on the front can be replaced by your self with just a hammer.....
They can be nocked in and then just turn the wheel to do each one.....
They can be nocked in and then just turn the wheel to do each one.....
05-25-2006, 11:10 AM
#11
Originally Posted by blind527
**** really? Are the rears the ones that require taking lots of **** off?
Yes the rears are the hard ones..... that why people get them when they do a 12 bolt or a 9".... not worth it on a 10 bolt....... i dont trust a 10 bolt racing anyways..... i went thru three sets of gears in one.
Kyle
05-25-2006, 11:12 AM
#12
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Yes the rears are the hard ones..... that why people get them when they do a 12 bolt or a 9".... not worth it on a 10 bolt....... i dont trust a 10 bolt racing anyways..... i went thru three sets of gears in one.
Kyle
Kyle
05-25-2006, 12:05 PM
#13
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The rears are easy to change studs in too... you just have to pull the caliper and rotor off and turn the axle to one specific place that gives you enough room to pull the stud out and put another in. I alway use an old lug nut the install the studs, just put them in the hole, run a lugnut all the way up on it and take an impact and tighten. I will pull the stud in where it is supposed to be. It's very easy on the front and rear.
I ground the rears down ALOT. They fit with no spacers, if you put spacers on the front, you don't have to grind at all...
The pic in my sig is with a 5/16 spacer on the front.
I ground the rears down ALOT. They fit with no spacers, if you put spacers on the front, you don't have to grind at all...
The pic in my sig is with a 5/16 spacer on the front.
05-25-2006, 12:15 PM
#14
Originally Posted by 1BDWS6
The rears are easy to change studs in too... you just have to pull the caliper and rotor off and turn the axle to one specific place that gives you enough room to pull the stud out and put another in. I alway use an old lug nut the install the studs, just put them in the hole, run a lugnut all the way up on it and take an impact and tighten. I will pull the stud in where it is supposed to be. It's very easy on the front and rear.
I ground the rears down ALOT. They fit with no spacers, if you put spacers on the front, you don't have to grind at all...
The pic in my sig is with a 5/16 spacer on the front.
I ground the rears down ALOT. They fit with no spacers, if you put spacers on the front, you don't have to grind at all...
The pic in my sig is with a 5/16 spacer on the front.
Thread Size: 12mm x 1.50 RH
Knurl Diameter: 0.509 in.
Underhead Length (in): 2.500 in.
Knurl Length (in): 0.315 in.
or
Thread Size: 12mm x 1.50 RH
Knurl Diameter: 0.509 in.
Underhead Length (in): 3.250 in.
Knurl Length (in): 0.315 in.
Overall Length (in): 3.500 in.
05-25-2006, 01:02 PM
#15
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The 2.5" ones are stock length. I would go ahead and opt for the longer ones if you plan to ever race the car where they are strict on tech. I believe NHRA tech states that the studs must stick out past the wheel holes a little bit, and you have to use and open lugnut that the stud sticks out through the end.
As far as spacers go I would get Mr Gasket ones, the part number from Summit is MRG-2372. They say not for off-road use but on the front I don't see what it matters. Unless you were gonna be auto-xing with them, but if you were gonna do that, you wouldn't have skinnies on the front.
As far as spacers go I would get Mr Gasket ones, the part number from Summit is MRG-2372. They say not for off-road use but on the front I don't see what it matters. Unless you were gonna be auto-xing with them, but if you were gonna do that, you wouldn't have skinnies on the front.
Last edited by 1BDWS6; 05-25-2006 at 01:25 PM.
05-25-2006, 01:05 PM
#16
Originally Posted by 1BDWS6
The 2.5" ones are stock length. I would go ahead and opt for the longer ones if you plan to ever race the car where they are strict on tech. I believe NHRA tech states that the studs must stick out past the wheel holes a little bit, and you have to use and open lugnut that the stud sticks out through the end.
05-25-2006, 01:33 PM
#17
People do it all the time.. run spacers..... i dont condone it though.... it makes the wheel sit farther out on the studs and are more prone to break that way.....
Plus if a NHRA tech looks close enough for the studs going thru the lug nuts then hes going to see the spacers..... and spacers are a no no there also....
Plus if a NHRA tech looks close enough for the studs going thru the lug nuts then hes going to see the spacers..... and spacers are a no no there also....
