bumpstops
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On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: ILLINOIS
bumpstops ok i got my 17by11's today and just want to make sure all i have to do to run the 315's is to grind those stops off right? my car isnt lowered or anything else. and is there a thread about the bumpstops so i know how much of it to take off? thanks guys
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 15
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It isn't actually necessary to grind down the bump stops. They only interfere with the wheel install if when you lift the car, the suspension hangs down. If you lift the car from the axles, the suspension won't hang down and the bump stop won't come in contact with the wheel.
Time to break out the pics again.....
That's the before and after. As mentioned, leaving them in mainly is just an inconvenience when you lift the car on a regular lift where the suspension is not supported and you want to take off the wheels. The wheel will hang up on the bumpstop and will be hard to remove, and impossible to re-mount without compressing the suspension.
Aside from that, you will most like have to use a big hammer to pound in the inner fender well....like shown here:
Just recoat with a can of rubberized undercoating which you can pick up at any autoparts place.
It would help greatly if you had an ajustable panhard bar to center the rear end. It worked wonders on my car, no more dicing and slicing of the tires from the fender lip.
Other than that...drive carefully and use your head....don't get it airborne, watch for steep inclines and driveways.
Manny
That's the before and after. As mentioned, leaving them in mainly is just an inconvenience when you lift the car on a regular lift where the suspension is not supported and you want to take off the wheels. The wheel will hang up on the bumpstop and will be hard to remove, and impossible to re-mount without compressing the suspension.
Aside from that, you will most like have to use a big hammer to pound in the inner fender well....like shown here:
Just recoat with a can of rubberized undercoating which you can pick up at any autoparts place.
It would help greatly if you had an ajustable panhard bar to center the rear end. It worked wonders on my car, no more dicing and slicing of the tires from the fender lip.
Other than that...drive carefully and use your head....don't get it airborne, watch for steep inclines and driveways.
Manny
Originally Posted by ROLLN
yeah i didnt even think of that when i was lifting the car up, but even though the car isnt lowered, the fenders can still make contact with tires?
I am assuming you're talking about the fender lips, not the inner fender?
Lets put it this way, if you run just about any tire but a Nitto, you will have to pound in the inner fender well some as I have done. Best thing to do is just to throw them on there and drive around with them a bit, try some "challenging areas" that will give the suspesion a workout, like steep inclines. After that, take the wheels back off and look where the undercoating got rubbed off, that's where you'll have to hit it with the hammer.
As far as the fender lip goes, my car is a bad example. It's a 98, and they tend to sit an inch lower than 99+ cars. I bought it new, so I know it's never been lowered. Before installing the adjustable panhard bar, my passenger side rear tire got a few cuts from the fender lip, mainly due to some big dips in the road, or having people sitting in the back, but again, my car is about an inch lower stock from the factory than most 99+ cars. The panhard bar is your friend, get one and spend some time adjusting your rear end so it's perfectly centered, it can minimize any damage from that fender lip. Since I installed mine, I didn't slice up my rear passenger side tire anymore. I have a UMI double adjustable rod ended panhard bar, makes centering the rear end easy since you don't have to unbolt it every time you adjust it.
Good luck! It's a bit of work, but it sure is worth it!
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Originally Posted by JaSSon00
Manny, thanks for your help with the 315 threads....i decided to do it based almost solely on your writeups.
Hey, no problem! I have had mine on for a long time. When I first asked about it, not too many people had them, and as a result I didn't get too much info about it. So since I now know what's what with 315's, I almost feel obligated to answer almost any question about them.
Manny
In regards to the bumpstops, Sam Strano, a suspension guru and respected vendor on here stated not to remove or shave the bumpstops. And that they are an important piece to the suspension, saving the shocks from being compressed more than they should be when going over a large bump. I recently got 315's added some spacers and im good to go.
Last edited by 01bird58; Nov 29, 2006 at 10:16 PM.
No, it's not really a police car, it's a conversation piece...lol...it is an original badge though, I ordered it form my local Lincoln Mercury dealer, it was pretty funny to see the looks on their faces when I picked the "part" up....lol.
12 Second Club
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 207
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From: Calgary
I did mine the same as MannyZ28, I had the same rubbing issues aswell. Nothing a hammer and some box liner coating doesn't fix up. Looks 100% factory. I prefered to get rid of the bump stops because I get work done on my car and they are too stupid to understand that you can't use a hoist to lift the car or remove the tires. ie the gm dealer we have here. 3 days to change the oil, booked 1 full month in advance.
Seriously people absolutely NO REASON to cut the bumpstop off . . . .
All you are doing is now allowing your rear axle to move upwards more, inrcrease the chance of wheel well contact, and most like going to damage your shocks . . .
I never did ANTHING with mine. The ONLY issue was you cannot install the wheels with the axle hanging.
All you are doing is now allowing your rear axle to move upwards more, inrcrease the chance of wheel well contact, and most like going to damage your shocks . . .
I never did ANTHING with mine. The ONLY issue was you cannot install the wheels with the axle hanging.
I wanted to be able to lift mine on a lift without worrying about the wheels so after I centered the rear with an adjustable PHB I trimmed the bumpstops by about 1/8 of an inch or so. Painted them with POR-15 and its good to go. Can't even tell I did it. That's with Nitto's though.
Originally Posted by Juiced2000SS
I wanted to be able to lift mine on a lift without worrying about the wheels so after I centered the rear with an adjustable PHB I trimmed the bumpstops by about 1/8 of an inch or so. Painted them with POR-15 and its good to go. Can't even tell I did it. That's with Nitto's though.
When my car needs to go to the shop, I have two versions of lift to pick from. Either the alignment lift that you drive on where they have the moveable jacks that they use to lift the car with the suspension compressed, or a normal lift which will let the supesnion droop and causes the wheels to hang up on the bumpstops. The alignment lifts are too steep for my car, it always wants to hit the crossmember of my torque arm, so they have to use boards to get the car up there. That's just too hard on the clutch, so that's why the bumpstops were trimmed a long time ago....actually my dealer did it!
This evening I tried to mount a 17x11 TT2 w/315 BFG KD tire and had lifted the car by the frame instead of the axle. Needless to say the bumpstop bracket was into the tire so I had to remove the wheel and seach "Tech" for some answers. This thread is very helpful.
What other options are there to prevent contact between tire and bumpstop? Does anybody see a limiting strap/cable as a viable alternative? I don't get any hangtime in my car or anything but rather seek a "piece of mind" approach in customizing. If I were to shave the bumpstops back a little, how much clearance would be necessary to allow normal body roll/compression to not put the tire into the bumpstop?
What other options are there to prevent contact between tire and bumpstop? Does anybody see a limiting strap/cable as a viable alternative? I don't get any hangtime in my car or anything but rather seek a "piece of mind" approach in customizing. If I were to shave the bumpstops back a little, how much clearance would be necessary to allow normal body roll/compression to not put the tire into the bumpstop?