? about the 17x11s
? about the 17x11s Ive have read that its ok to lift the pumpkin to put the 315s and rims on this way. My ? is. If you have to lets say work on the rear. And take off the wheels. Do you always have to lift the pumkin to put the wheels back on?
I think Standard-Z doesn't quite know why the car needs to be lifted by the rear with 17 x 11's. So here's a visual.
In this first picture, the bumpstop and the metal tab that it is mounted to is still in place and the suspension is compressed since the car is sitting on the floor.
In this second picture, the bumpstop has been unbolted and the mounting tab has been trimmed back. The suspension is at full droop with the car on a conventional lift. You can see how the tire just barely clears the remains of the mounting tab to which the actual bumpstop was bolted (you can see that we left the two mounting holes intact). Without trimming it, the wheel hangs up on the mounting tab, thus making it difficult to remove the wheel from the car when the car is in the air, and making it impossible to mount the wheel back on without compressing the suspension to gain enough clearance to get the wheel back into it's place.
Hope this clarifies it a bit.
Manny
In this first picture, the bumpstop and the metal tab that it is mounted to is still in place and the suspension is compressed since the car is sitting on the floor.
In this second picture, the bumpstop has been unbolted and the mounting tab has been trimmed back. The suspension is at full droop with the car on a conventional lift. You can see how the tire just barely clears the remains of the mounting tab to which the actual bumpstop was bolted (you can see that we left the two mounting holes intact). Without trimming it, the wheel hangs up on the mounting tab, thus making it difficult to remove the wheel from the car when the car is in the air, and making it impossible to mount the wheel back on without compressing the suspension to gain enough clearance to get the wheel back into it's place.
Hope this clarifies it a bit.
Manny
The stock bumpstops in there stock location won't help you any if you go with 11's in the back, simply because the wheels are so much closer to the inner wheel well. The bumpstop won't engage and stop the rear axle early enough to prevent any damage when you bottom it out. That's the reason why SLP sold the bumpstop spacer, aka jounce bumper, as a suggested option when you upgrade your Z28 or Trans Am to SS/WS6 wheels, to bring the bumpstop closer to the axle so it would engage the axle earlier to compensate for the added width and thus closer proximity of the tire to the inner wheel well. You can see that jounce bumper thing installed in the pictures above, it's that light gray thing between the red mounting tab and the brownish bumpstop. The only way keeping the bumpstop will do you some good is to have one made that will work together with 11" wheels, i.e. which will relocated the bumpstop downward far enough so that the axle will be engaged by it before the tire hits the inner wheel well.
So yes, there is a risk involved in doing what I did, but I have these wheels for 6 years now and haven't had a problem. Just think when you drive, be careful on steep inclines, and don't get the car airborne.
An adjustable panhard bar is a great idea too to center the rear end properly.
So yes, there is a risk involved in doing what I did, but I have these wheels for 6 years now and haven't had a problem. Just think when you drive, be careful on steep inclines, and don't get the car airborne.
An adjustable panhard bar is a great idea too to center the rear end properly.
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Originally Posted by SSINISTR SS
Does everyone cut the bumpstops to fit the 315's? I wanna get them, but I'm not sure if I wanna go this far. But the lifting issue almost makes its a have-to-do mod.
-Mike
Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
No. My stock Z28 bumpstops are still very much intact. I just make sure to lift by the differential case when jacking up the rear.
-Mike
-Mike
I jacked my car up by the frame and put my 17x11's on. I didn't do it by the rear axle or anything. When I hit bumps or take a corner to sharp I can hear a scraping sound. Is that the bump stop? Do I need to take it off or BFH the hell out of the wheel well?
Originally Posted by smg267
I jacked my car up by the frame and put my 17x11's on. I didn't do it by the rear axle or anything. When I hit bumps or take a corner to sharp I can hear a scraping sound. Is that the bump stop? Do I need to take it off or BFH the hell out of the wheel well?
Originally Posted by SSINISTR SS
I was thinking that. BUT what if you get a flat on the side of the road?
I kept my bumpstops after talking to Sam Strano about my setup. I trust him, and he has never given me a reason not to. Also, if I ever decide to get a second set of rear tires for autocrossing, they'll likely be 17x9.5. If I've completely removed the bumpstops and their mounts, I'm screwed.
-Mike
Last edited by chupr0kabra; Feb 13, 2007 at 07:44 AM.
Originally Posted by smg267
I jacked my car up by the frame and put my 17x11's on. I didn't do it by the rear axle or anything. When I hit bumps or take a corner to sharp I can hear a scraping sound. Is that the bump stop? Do I need to take it off or BFH the hell out of the wheel well?
Before the next person asks, to fix that you should rent a heat gun and a fender roller. Roll the fender lips in a bit and that will keep it from gouging the tires.
If your sidewalls are OK, pull the wheels and look for spots where the tire has been rubbing the inner fender wells. Hit those spots with a hammer until the tire stops rubbing.
-Mike
Last edited by chupr0kabra; Feb 13, 2007 at 07:52 AM.
That's right...cornering will not affect the bumpstops, they are only affected when the car is lifted.
And yeah, my Yokos got sliced up pretty good before I got a panhard bar, but ever since I put that thing on, I can't remember hearing anything scrape.
The rubbing usually occurs around this area:
In a way, I wish someone would make this topic a sticky, god knows I have answered the same question multiple times. Although there still is a bit of a difference in opinion as far as the safety of removing the bumpstops is concerned.
As you can see in the picture further up, I did retain the screw holes, so if I wanted to, I could put the bumpstops back in.
And yeah, my Yokos got sliced up pretty good before I got a panhard bar, but ever since I put that thing on, I can't remember hearing anything scrape.
The rubbing usually occurs around this area:
In a way, I wish someone would make this topic a sticky, god knows I have answered the same question multiple times. Although there still is a bit of a difference in opinion as far as the safety of removing the bumpstops is concerned.
As you can see in the picture further up, I did retain the screw holes, so if I wanted to, I could put the bumpstops back in.
It likely wouldn't help much, Manny. There are great stickies about shocks and springs at the top of the Handling and Braking forum, and every day there are at least four new threads asking "which shocks should I buy?" 
-Mike
-Mike
Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
It likely wouldn't help much, Manny. There are great stickies about shocks and springs at the top of the Handling and Braking forum, and every day there are at least four new threads asking "which shocks should I buy?"
-Mike
-Mike
I know Mike....but one could always hope....lol
