Am I in trouble? Does tire section width measure larger when ... *pic*
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Originally Posted by 00BlueTA
If you have the car lifted from the axle you dont need to cut the bump stop. I have 315's and my bump stops.
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Originally Posted by 97REDZ28
I'm runnin into this problem where they won't fit but then again i'm not sure if the shop lifted from the frame or the axle. I asked em but i think they are just feedin me some BS. I'm new to the whole rim and tires thing and was just wondering how does that work. How would it work if you lift from the axle and not if you lift it from the frame? Thanks.
If you look at the second picture I posted, you will see a little red thing right next to the tire, that is the bumpstop mounting tab to which the bumpstop mounts. The 11" wheels protrude so far into the fender, that when the car is lifted by the frame, the wheel will hang up on that mounting tab as the suspension droops down. When you lift the car by putting a jack under the axle, the suspension stays compressed under the weight of the car, and therefore the bumpstop mounting tab never gets close to the wheel.
Crawl under the car and you'll see what I mean. Actually, here is a picture with my car on the ground when the whole bumpstop assembly was still in place.
![](http://homestead.com/mannyz28/files/bumpstop1.jpg)
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Awesome man thanks alot. I actually have the TT2's +45mm Offset. At first I though maybe the offset was wrong but Tom assures me it is correct so i'll take his word on it and try myself. Thanks again for the pic. Helps alot.
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Originally Posted by 97REDZ28
Awesome man thanks alot. I actually have the TT2's +45mm Offset. At first I though maybe the offset was wrong but Tom assures me it is correct so i'll take his word on it and try myself. Thanks again for the pic. Helps alot.
No problem! 45mm means your wheels will stick out just a bit more than mine which helps with clearance issues as far as the bumpstops are concerned. But since it brings the wheels out more, you have to worry about the fender lips a bit more, it just depends on what tire you are mounting on those wheels. Nittos will give you the least amount of problems, and sumitomos are kinda narrow too. As mentioned earlier, I started out with the Dunlop SP Sport 8000 for which I had to bang the fenders and also trimmed the mounting tab, then I went to the Yokohamas, had to bang the fender more for those. With the KD I finally cut the damn mounting tab off, but so far, no additional hammering required. By the way, in this pic you'll see the most common area of rubbage, again, easily fixed with a big hammer and some rubberized undercoating which you can buy in a can in most auto parts stores:
![](http://homestead.com/mannyz28/files/rubbing.jpg)
Manny
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Yea i got the sumitomo's cuz they were cheap so there shouldn't be any problem. That last pic helps alot so i can see where it might be rubbing if it starts to. When the shop mounted the rims to the car, it was hittin in the back but the rim was almost all the way on. And I looked down the fender and it didn't stick out at all. I think even with the tires they should still be pretty much flush with everything.
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So are the wheels and tires on the car now or no? I bet those shop guys lifted the car up normally and couldn't get the wheel on because the tire was hitting the bumpstop. Just tell them to put the car on the ground, get a floor jack, stick it under the rear end, pump away, and put the wheels on, or go to someone that knows what they are doing. My dealer didn't really know what they were doing, but they were willing to learn....
"You are the first customer that not only predicts the problem correctly before we even start the work, but also knows the solution right away"
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97REDZ28, just get the shop to mount and balance the tires. Take them home and put them on yourself. That way you can actually see whats going on and if there is problems you can come on here and we can help you.
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Cool. Yea the tires are not on yet. I'm just waitin for my friend to get back from work and we're gonna jack it up ourselves and MAKE it fit..lol. I'll post pics up so you can see what I went through all this trouble for. Not that you guys haven't seen a million 4th Gen's with TT2's or anything.
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Oh yea, a little off topic (I appologize to the original poster) but is there a difference in the LT1 4th gen and the LS1 4th gen as far as wheel spacing. Just curious. As far as I know they are the same car from the doors back.
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
Most likely the same trouble I was in....hehe.
First of all I am hoping you're running 11" wide wheels!
The GSD3 is at least as wide, if not wider than my tires, so if this is your first time mounting those wheels and tires, then you got a bit of work ahead of yourself. The bumpstop per se is easy to remove...two bolts and it comes right out. The problem remains though after it has been unbolted since the mounting tab is still there.
The bumpstop is obviously a safety feature, it's there to keep the axle from bottoming out and causing damage to the inner fender. Even if you keep the bumpstop in place, which you can do since it only becomes a problem when the car is lifted by a normal body lift, so lifting the car with the suspension compressed will make the bumpstops a non issue as far as lifting the car goes, it will still not protect you against damage when bottoming out since the bigger tire and wheel are much closer to the inner fender, and the bumpstop will not engage the axle in time to stop any more upward movement from occurring. If you are careful and don't get the car airborne, like me, the bumpstop is really just useless weight.
Getting 315's back there and still having a functional bumpstop is pretty hard to do. Either way, you will always have to lift the car so the suspension is compressed. Due to my torque arm crossmember, and a few other things under the car, I can't drive on the drive on lifts where the car can be lifted by the rear end, so that's why I chose to take the "cut it all out" route.
Manny
First of all I am hoping you're running 11" wide wheels!
The GSD3 is at least as wide, if not wider than my tires, so if this is your first time mounting those wheels and tires, then you got a bit of work ahead of yourself. The bumpstop per se is easy to remove...two bolts and it comes right out. The problem remains though after it has been unbolted since the mounting tab is still there.
The bumpstop is obviously a safety feature, it's there to keep the axle from bottoming out and causing damage to the inner fender. Even if you keep the bumpstop in place, which you can do since it only becomes a problem when the car is lifted by a normal body lift, so lifting the car with the suspension compressed will make the bumpstops a non issue as far as lifting the car goes, it will still not protect you against damage when bottoming out since the bigger tire and wheel are much closer to the inner fender, and the bumpstop will not engage the axle in time to stop any more upward movement from occurring. If you are careful and don't get the car airborne, like me, the bumpstop is really just useless weight.
Getting 315's back there and still having a functional bumpstop is pretty hard to do. Either way, you will always have to lift the car so the suspension is compressed. Due to my torque arm crossmember, and a few other things under the car, I can't drive on the drive on lifts where the car can be lifted by the rear end, so that's why I chose to take the "cut it all out" route.
Manny
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Yeah...you can keep them in there, it's just an inconvenience issue when someone tries to lift your car by the frame.
And yeah...LT1 and LS1....backspacing is all the same.
And yeah...LT1 and LS1....backspacing is all the same.
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Originally Posted by ls2 bait
i dont understand why everyone has such a hard time with this. my bump stops are still intact (albiet trimmed) and i run the 315 kd's on my car. i also put it on the lift routinely at work and never lift by the axle. its close as hell but it doesnt hit.
Mine were trimmed, just not enough. Instead of monkeying around with it, I just decided to cut it off and be done with it.
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Well we mounted the rims on the car today ourselves and lifted it up by the axle and they fit just fine. Damn shop said they did it both ways and they wouldn't fit. A'holes. Anyway, I'll have em on today and take some pics.
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Just to give you an idea of what I had to do to fit my GS-D3s. I am lowered on a Pro-kit so I had to do a bit more work to get them to fit nicely. Get you a nice hammer and start pounding away. After I thought I had enough, I had to pound some more. After applying a new layer of undercoating, I mounted the wheels and took it for a ride around the block and took them off again. You could see where you had to pound more by where it had rubbed off. I also had to roll my fender lips. It was quite a bit of work, but it was definitly worth it!
![](http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c65/hyoctane23/GS-D337.jpg)
![](http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c65/hyoctane23/GS-D340.jpg)
![](http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c65/hyoctane23/GS-D337.jpg)
![](http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c65/hyoctane23/GS-D340.jpg)
![](http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c65/hyoctane23/GS-D341.jpg)
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Originally Posted by RedRyder518
Just to give you an idea of what I had to do to fit my GS-D3s. I am lowered on a Pro-kit so I had to do a bit more work to get them to fit nicely. Get you a nice hammer and start pounding away. After I thought I had enough, I had to pound some more. After applying a new layer of undercoating, I mounted the wheels and took it for a ride around the block and took them off again. You could see where you had to pound more by where it had rubbed off. I also had to roll my fender lips. It was quite a bit of work, but it was definitly worth it!