How to install wheel studs?
the only way i've been able to do them, since i don't like taking axles out for something this simple, is to pound the old ones out.
- then get a couple of old lugnuts you don't mind distroying.
- once the old ones are out, slide the new ones in up till the knurling.
- hand tighten your old lugnuts until the new stud is tight against the inside of the wheel flange on the axle.
- take your impact gun with a deep well socket and tighten away till the head of the stud is all the way against the wheel flange.
- repeat for the other 9.
- then get a couple of old lugnuts you don't mind distroying.
- once the old ones are out, slide the new ones in up till the knurling.
- hand tighten your old lugnuts until the new stud is tight against the inside of the wheel flange on the axle.
- take your impact gun with a deep well socket and tighten away till the head of the stud is all the way against the wheel flange.
- repeat for the other 9.
Originally Posted by thirdgenbum
the only way i've been able to do them, since i don't like taking axles out for something this simple, is to pound the old ones out.
- then get a couple of old lugnuts you don't mind distroying.
- once the old ones are out, slide the new ones in up till the knurling.
- hand tighten your old lugnuts until the new stud is tight against the inside of the wheel flange on the axle.
- take your impact gun with a deep well socket and tighten away till the head of the stud is all the way against the wheel flange.
- repeat for the other 9.
- then get a couple of old lugnuts you don't mind distroying.
- once the old ones are out, slide the new ones in up till the knurling.
- hand tighten your old lugnuts until the new stud is tight against the inside of the wheel flange on the axle.
- take your impact gun with a deep well socket and tighten away till the head of the stud is all the way against the wheel flange.
- repeat for the other 9.
You have to remove the wheel speed sensors to make a hole for the studs to come through though.
You can buy some cheap open lugs and stack washers underneath to get more pull onto the studs too. That's what I did, got all the studs through with one autozone lug.
They get really hot, some good lube like WD40 or PB blaster helps alot too.
You can buy some cheap open lugs and stack washers underneath to get more pull onto the studs too. That's what I did, got all the studs through with one autozone lug.
They get really hot, some good lube like WD40 or PB blaster helps alot too.
Just a quick note for you guys which some may be overlooking...when you pull your studs in place as, pay attention to the torque applied. A quick test during install would be to set a torque wrench at 100ftlbs and see if you can pull them in place. If you need more torque, you have a very high likelyhood of stretching your bolts and weakening them. My guess is some are applying over 400ftlbs to seat them...probably more. If they are getting really hot as described above, you could be changing the temper of the material which also effects strength.
Realistically, you guys should consider pressing them in. It's actually not too difficult to remove the axle and only require an extra hour of your time.
Realistically, you guys should consider pressing them in. It's actually not too difficult to remove the axle and only require an extra hour of your time.
Well theres no way i'm pulling the axle out. And I doubt any garage I take it to would do that either unless I told them to. So I'm going to stick with trying to pull them into place with an open ended lug. I will use a torque wrench though and set it at 100 ft/lbs. If it takes more Ill use just a tiny bit more.
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Without insulting some mechanics. You're may be correct with garages, most work job basis pushing as many projects through as possible as they potentially can earn more. If they are reputable and the mechanic cares, he would remove/install them correctly.
I think you'll find you'll be hard pressed installing them without going far above 100ftlbs. As you tighten the lug, it will want to spin on the knurling which increases friction. Don't try to bang them in from the inside either with the axles in...you have a chance of creating a flat spot on the bearings, or damaging other components.(same goes with removing the studs...probably best not to bang them out also due to possiblities of damaging components.)
Pulling the axles is really simple...very simple and will probably net less headaches in the end. Remove the axle cover, one pin-bolt and four caliper bolts then the c-clips slide off and the axles pull out. Now you can easily work on the axles removing the studs and re-installing them.
If you've never changed your axle fluid...it needs it anyways.
I'm sure many have changed them as above and never had an issue. What I'm discussing is what should be done no disrepect to others.
I think you'll find you'll be hard pressed installing them without going far above 100ftlbs. As you tighten the lug, it will want to spin on the knurling which increases friction. Don't try to bang them in from the inside either with the axles in...you have a chance of creating a flat spot on the bearings, or damaging other components.(same goes with removing the studs...probably best not to bang them out also due to possiblities of damaging components.)
Pulling the axles is really simple...very simple and will probably net less headaches in the end. Remove the axle cover, one pin-bolt and four caliper bolts then the c-clips slide off and the axles pull out. Now you can easily work on the axles removing the studs and re-installing them.
If you've never changed your axle fluid...it needs it anyways.
I'm sure many have changed them as above and never had an issue. What I'm discussing is what should be done no disrepect to others.
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Verdad Gallardo Anything to do with the rear end kinda scares me. I've never done anything like that. I understand what youre describing, but I'm still scared. With my luck, I'd screw something up.
Originally Posted by michaelg589
Anything to do with the rear end kinda scares me. I've never done anything like that. I understand what youre describing, but I'm still scared. With my luck, I'd screw something up.
My suggestion if you don't feel comfortable taking out the axles which is really pretty simple, I would think twice about changing the studs yourself. Once you take the cover off, there is one bolt and a pin you need to remove then the whole axle assembly slips out after you push the axle in to expose and slide the c-clip off.
If you haven't changed the fluid (which it sounds like you haven't been under the cover)...as mentioned, I'd highly suggest doing so anyways. It's probably way overdue.
Good luck.
btw, I"m assuming your using your OEM rear-end.
...if you've changed to an aftermarket rear-end with c-clip eliminators...it is even easier...you don't even go into the cover. (I still would change the fluid though if it is old).
...if you've changed to an aftermarket rear-end with c-clip eliminators...it is even easier...you don't even go into the cover. (I still would change the fluid though if it is old).
