ATTN: People who want to replace or upgrade Monsoon Speakers
#181
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Originally Posted by Jason Novak
They do play, just very quietly. I can't really here them unless I crank it way up and fade it all to the front, then it's still really quiet and doesn't sound very good. The stock speakers were working right so I don't think its the amp.
Do I have to cut the wires to the tweeter on the speaker (don't really want to do that) or tie the mid + and tweeter +, -'s together?
What was someone saying about speakers canceling each other out? Even though I have the correct +/- do I want to reverse one of them or one of the amps?
Do I have to cut the wires to the tweeter on the speaker (don't really want to do that) or tie the mid + and tweeter +, -'s together?
What was someone saying about speakers canceling each other out? Even though I have the correct +/- do I want to reverse one of them or one of the amps?
Sent you a PM
#182
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Ok, ok, ok
After all that, I could not find a good pair of Blaupunkts at a good price, nor the 4406's, so I went with the JL's you suggested in your first post. I could not hear a peep from them - and they just barely fit. So I discussed this with my local Sound Advice guy, and he suggested, after look at the sail panel subs, that I connect both sets of speaker leads to the subs. Wow, did that make a difference, I could almost hear sound coming from them, still real quiet. But I found another problem, not only were the sail panel speakers bad, but so was one of the door panel speakers.
Back to Sound Advice. We looked at the power range of many 4ohm speakers, and decided on a nice set of Boston Acoustic. (There was a cheaper pair, but they sounded cheaper.) A little pricey, but S.A. has a 60 warranty, and I don't have to pay shipping! So, in they go. What a pain trying to get the door panels back on, as the B.A.'s use a 3-hole mount, so I had to use the supplied 4-hole adapter - which required modification to the inside of the door panel.
Well, now I have $300+ invested in 4 speakers, which are drowned out by the rear hatch speakers... yup, those little 4" woofer - according to S.A. the larger rear speaker is an actual woofer - and it's "little friend."
If I set the fader at about 2 o'clock, I get great sound out of the front and sail panel speakers. Any more power to the rear speakers, and the rest of the system is drowned out.
So, what suggestions say you regarding replacing those rear speakers? Should I do as others suggested and remove both speakers and mount a 6x9 or 5x7? or a 5 1/4 round speaker? Or replace with similar speakers? If so, which leads do I use? Also, I assume I would want to match the power range to the B.A.'s and J.L.'s so that they would be balanced.
Thank you for your insight.
P.S. I'd like to replace the head unit with a Monsoon Cassettee unit, it has the CD unit now. Any suggestions regarding an inexpensive source?
Back to Sound Advice. We looked at the power range of many 4ohm speakers, and decided on a nice set of Boston Acoustic. (There was a cheaper pair, but they sounded cheaper.) A little pricey, but S.A. has a 60 warranty, and I don't have to pay shipping! So, in they go. What a pain trying to get the door panels back on, as the B.A.'s use a 3-hole mount, so I had to use the supplied 4-hole adapter - which required modification to the inside of the door panel.
Well, now I have $300+ invested in 4 speakers, which are drowned out by the rear hatch speakers... yup, those little 4" woofer - according to S.A. the larger rear speaker is an actual woofer - and it's "little friend."
If I set the fader at about 2 o'clock, I get great sound out of the front and sail panel speakers. Any more power to the rear speakers, and the rest of the system is drowned out.
So, what suggestions say you regarding replacing those rear speakers? Should I do as others suggested and remove both speakers and mount a 6x9 or 5x7? or a 5 1/4 round speaker? Or replace with similar speakers? If so, which leads do I use? Also, I assume I would want to match the power range to the B.A.'s and J.L.'s so that they would be balanced.
Thank you for your insight.
P.S. I'd like to replace the head unit with a Monsoon Cassettee unit, it has the CD unit now. Any suggestions regarding an inexpensive source?
#186
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ATTN: ROGUE LEADER......Been doing some research looking for the 4406s and found these: http://www.speedsound.com/caraudio.asp?pg=products&specific=jmmncpoqi
Would these subs be good supplements for the 4406s to replace the factory 6.5" subs? Are these just this year's model of the 4406 that's been discontinued? Let us know. Thanks!!!
Would these subs be good supplements for the 4406s to replace the factory 6.5" subs? Are these just this year's model of the 4406 that's been discontinued? Let us know. Thanks!!!
#187
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Originally Posted by ModGod
ATTN: ROGUE LEADER......Been doing some research looking for the 4406s and found these: http://www.speedsound.com/caraudio.asp?pg=products&specific=jmmncpoqi
Would these subs be good supplements for the 4406s to replace the factory 6.5" subs? Are these just this year's model of the 4406 that's been discontinued? Let us know. Thanks!!!
Would these subs be good supplements for the 4406s to replace the factory 6.5" subs? Are these just this year's model of the 4406 that's been discontinued? Let us know. Thanks!!!
#188
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"Well, if you like the Boston Acoustics speakers that you have in there now, why not replace the rear hatch speaker with one from them?"
That's one of the issues. The BA's in the front are much quieter than the stock speakers in the far back. I've tried just disconnecting the stock hatch speakers, but then the sound becomes flat. So, if I'm going to replace the hatch speaerks, and they currently have the odd configuration of a 4" sub and a tweater, what suggestions do you have? A 5x7? A 6X9? A 6.5"? Which leads, etc.
I do appreciate the time and experitise of all those who have posted. It really has "brought me up to speed" on this issue, and severly reduced my learning curve.
Bob
That's one of the issues. The BA's in the front are much quieter than the stock speakers in the far back. I've tried just disconnecting the stock hatch speakers, but then the sound becomes flat. So, if I'm going to replace the hatch speaerks, and they currently have the odd configuration of a 4" sub and a tweater, what suggestions do you have? A 5x7? A 6X9? A 6.5"? Which leads, etc.
I do appreciate the time and experitise of all those who have posted. It really has "brought me up to speed" on this issue, and severly reduced my learning curve.
Bob
#189
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Originally Posted by ramairbrc
"Well, if you like the Boston Acoustics speakers that you have in there now, why not replace the rear hatch speaker with one from them?"
That's one of the issues. The BA's in the front are much quieter than the stock speakers in the far back. I've tried just disconnecting the stock hatch speakers, but then the sound becomes flat. So, if I'm going to replace the hatch speaerks, and they currently have the odd configuration of a 4" sub and a tweater, what suggestions do you have? A 5x7? A 6X9? A 6.5"? Which leads, etc.
I do appreciate the time and experitise of all those who have posted. It really has "brought me up to speed" on this issue, and severly reduced my learning curve.
Bob
That's one of the issues. The BA's in the front are much quieter than the stock speakers in the far back. I've tried just disconnecting the stock hatch speakers, but then the sound becomes flat. So, if I'm going to replace the hatch speaerks, and they currently have the odd configuration of a 4" sub and a tweater, what suggestions do you have? A 5x7? A 6X9? A 6.5"? Which leads, etc.
I do appreciate the time and experitise of all those who have posted. It really has "brought me up to speed" on this issue, and severly reduced my learning curve.
Bob
#190
I went out and bought a pair of 6x9 Sony 3-way speaker (100W; 350WPeak, 4Ohm). I bought them because I didn't have my TA (2002 WS6) with me and thought that was what was already there. Now, it is obvious that there is 4" midrange and small tweeter. I hooked the 6x9 up to the wires where the 4" was, and they are at least working. My understanding about a 3-way is that is has the tweeter built in. Should I leave the stock tweeters in, take them out, do something with the wires, etc? Thanks.
#192
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so there isnt a good alpine sub we can put in the back sail panels... i already have done the two up front and yes for the price it is much cleaner in sound not as airy toned as the stocks. should i just try and find the jl's still its been awhile since you posted this thread so i just asking in case something new came out
Thanks Steve
Thanks Steve
#193
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Originally Posted by SVC707
so there isnt a good alpine sub we can put in the back sail panels... i already have done the two up front and yes for the price it is much cleaner in sound not as airy toned as the stocks. should i just try and find the jl's still its been awhile since you posted this thread so i just asking in case something new came out
Thanks Steve
Thanks Steve
#194
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So if I install a 5x7 to replace both speakers in the rear, do I use only the leads to the 4" speaker, or do I also use the tweeter leads and hook them directly to the tweeter on the 5x7?
Thanks for all your advice.
Thanks for all your advice.
#195
Originally Posted by Matty22
anyone tried to hook up tweeters to the two leads that come from the HUD in a 2000 camaro w/ monsoon sys? Also, any suggestions on where to mount tweeters in the front?
#196
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I have some Kicker RMB6 for sale. They are 6.75" midbass speakers. I'll sell them $55 shipped. I got them for 80 plus 20 shipping. Email me at mattsls1@aol.com
matt
matt
#197
best 'how to' guides?
Hey guys... sorry if the information is in this thread (did a quick skim and didn't see them) ... but I'm looking for a guide that has some nice pictures and explanations on how to replace the door speakers on my formula without damaging the existing panels. I'd rather not add to the rattles... heck... I'd be happy with some good solid tips. Any help is appreciated.
great thread btw... especially since the early LS1s are experiencing speaker failure just due to them drying out with age (like mine).
great thread btw... especially since the early LS1s are experiencing speaker failure just due to them drying out with age (like mine).
#198
Originally Posted by ramairbrc
So if I install a 5x7 to replace both speakers in the rear, do I use only the leads to the 4" speaker, or do I also use the tweeter leads and hook them directly to the tweeter on the 5x7?.
#199
Originally Posted by Rogue Leader
Alpine doesnt make a 6.5 sub unfortunately.... Kicker RMB6 has been mentioned...
i noticed recently that sounddomain started carrying image dynamics cx62. this is another mid-range/mid-bass but its 2 ohms.
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/IDSCX62
they are a bit pricy though (about twice what i paid for the rmb6's). on the upside @2 ohms its easier to get an amp to drive these things loud.
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So lets get this straight, the 4460 is discontinued with no replacement. The 6w0 wont work due to the need of a box of some sort. the rmb6 cannot be pushed by the monsoon amp.
So in other words with out the 4460, we are SOL huh? There is not a 6 1/2 inch sub that is on the market that will work without an enclosure, or have I missed something.
I just blew my subs, and need to replace them but dont want to go with stock becuase I plan to put the Alpines up front in the near future. Lets get some sort of definative answer as to what will and wont work, and what is available. Because this is frustrating as he!! not being able to fix my problem.
Fry
So in other words with out the 4460, we are SOL huh? There is not a 6 1/2 inch sub that is on the market that will work without an enclosure, or have I missed something.
I just blew my subs, and need to replace them but dont want to go with stock becuase I plan to put the Alpines up front in the near future. Lets get some sort of definative answer as to what will and wont work, and what is available. Because this is frustrating as he!! not being able to fix my problem.
Fry