How To Wire Mono Amp To 2 Subs???
How To Wire Mono Amp To 2 Subs??? I'm upgrading my single 12" Alpine Type E (model 1242) to twin 12" Type Es and still planning on using my single Alpine MRP-M450 (400 watt amp)
My question is how should I wire up the subs to get the most power, and do you think my amp will be too small for 2 12" subs?
My question is how should I wire up the subs to get the most power, and do you think my amp will be too small for 2 12" subs?
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
The Alpine MRP-M450 produces 400 W-rms @ 2 Ohms.
The Alpine 1242 are single 4 Ohm voice coil subs.
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Wiring the subs in PARALLEL will produce a 2 Ohm load for the amp to see, giving you the most power.
Your amp will be fine for this setup - though be sure to set to gains properly to avoid clipping. Whether or not the results are enough for you and if the amp is too small, you'll have to decide later... but with the increase in power you'll be able to use and the fact that you'll be using two subs rather than one, it should make you happy.
The Alpine 1242 are single 4 Ohm voice coil subs.
---
Wiring the subs in PARALLEL will produce a 2 Ohm load for the amp to see, giving you the most power.
Your amp will be fine for this setup - though be sure to set to gains properly to avoid clipping. Whether or not the results are enough for you and if the amp is too small, you'll have to decide later... but with the increase in power you'll be able to use and the fact that you'll be using two subs rather than one, it should make you happy.
^^^ Thanks man, I just noticed that and came back to post the pic that you just added LOL
But I'm looking at a few different amps, 1 to match what I have right now so I would have 1 amp per sub and I found an alpine 800 watt for a good price, but I think I'll wait and see how it sounds before I buy more amps.
But now I have a box again for my tahoe, so I guess another sub and amp would be cool
Thanks for the reply
But I'm looking at a few different amps, 1 to match what I have right now so I would have 1 amp per sub and I found an alpine 800 watt for a good price, but I think I'll wait and see how it sounds before I buy more amps.
But now I have a box again for my tahoe, so I guess another sub and amp would be cool
Thanks for the reply
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Well I'll be sure to post some pics after the install is all done in a week or two.
Thanks again guys
BTW what size are my door speakers and the rear speakers? I'd like to get new ones, but my stockers still are crisp, but could use an update
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Your Type-E Alpine SWE-1242 subs are 50-250watts RMS. If you wired them in parallel at a 2ohm load, they'd be seeing about 200watts RMS which is fine for those subs. The Type-E subs is Alpine's entry level sub so I wouldn't push them much over that.
Well good for you now 
I personally really like them. I have had my one Type E for 2 years now and haven't had any complaints. And everyone that rides with me always compliments on the sound quality of the sub. I'm not saying they are the greatist thing ever or that I have never heard anything that sounded better, but for the price I really like them.
From crutchfield....
power range: 50-250 watts RMS
peak power: 750 watts
I have been powering my single 12 with the 400 watt amp for 2 years without any problems, thats the reason for considering another amp.
But mabye someday when I have more disposible income I'll get a better setup, but right now I can't complain for the money I have into it
I personally really like them. I have had my one Type E for 2 years now and haven't had any complaints. And everyone that rides with me always compliments on the sound quality of the sub. I'm not saying they are the greatist thing ever or that I have never heard anything that sounded better, but for the price I really like them.From crutchfield....
power range: 50-250 watts RMS
peak power: 750 watts
I have been powering my single 12 with the 400 watt amp for 2 years without any problems, thats the reason for considering another amp.
But mabye someday when I have more disposible income I'll get a better setup, but right now I can't complain for the money I have into it
Last edited by Turnin20s; May 13, 2009 at 08:59 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,003
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Currently you have a SVC 4 ohm sub...at 4 ohms, your amp puts out 220 W rms (per spec). By adding another 4 ohm sub and wiring in parallel, you will have a 2 ohm impedance which your amp produces 400 W rms at (so each sub will receive approximately the same power that your one sub now receives).
So yes, of course your sub can handle the setup currently because it is only using around half of the power the amp is capable of producing. Adding another 4 ohm sub is the most efficient thing you can do with your current setup.
Last edited by fredmr39; May 15, 2009 at 12:16 AM.
It will be fine, as mentioned. Ian explained it, but maybe it wasn't clear:
Currently you have a SVC 4 ohm sub...at 4 ohms, your amp puts out 220 W rms (per spec). By adding another 4 ohm sub and wiring in parallel, you will have a 2 ohm impedance which your amp produces 400 W rms at (so each sub will receive approximately the same power that your one sub now receives).
So yes, of course your sub can handle the setup currently because it is only using around half of the power the amp is capable of producing. Adding another 4 ohm sub is the most efficient thing you can do with your current setup.
Currently you have a SVC 4 ohm sub...at 4 ohms, your amp puts out 220 W rms (per spec). By adding another 4 ohm sub and wiring in parallel, you will have a 2 ohm impedance which your amp produces 400 W rms at (so each sub will receive approximately the same power that your one sub now receives).
So yes, of course your sub can handle the setup currently because it is only using around half of the power the amp is capable of producing. Adding another 4 ohm sub is the most efficient thing you can do with your current setup.
I'm also currently working on a system for my dad's truck and have been looking up info for him too and its alot different than what I'm used to, but cool stuff for sure
Thanks guys
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
But could someone help me out with how many cubic feet mo box would be?
Measurements are as follows.....
45" wide x 14" deep at the bottom
Front side is 6.5" tall and the rear is 10.5"
The top is 45" x 16"
The 45" will have to be devided since there is a barrier in the middle to keep both sides seperate.
Heres a pic for reference
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,003
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Are those outer measurements? Remember that the MDF has a thickness, which needs to be subtracted for your total volume.
For volume just break your box apart into cubes, prisms, whatever....then convert to ft^3. For in^3 --> ft^3 conversions, just type in Google: "434 cubic inches in cubic feet"...
For volume just break your box apart into cubes, prisms, whatever....then convert to ft^3. For in^3 --> ft^3 conversions, just type in Google: "434 cubic inches in cubic feet"...
I think it came out to about .82 cubic feet which is right at the bottom of the list for the Type Es. They suggest .8-1.7 so there is a big range compared to others I have seen. I think I'll stick with the setup I have now and not add a drop down on the box and add some polyfill to the box and just see how it sounds before I mess with anything else.
Thanks for the help though guys, I really appreciate it and I'm actually learning something LOL
Thanks for the help though guys, I really appreciate it and I'm actually learning something LOL
I am recommending him a better line of subs of a company he is already pleased with. he also mentioned a possibility of a 800 watt amp. So anywhere from 800-1000 true rms will be sufficient in a fbody. Definetly giving him the results hes looking for.
So im not sure why ur so butthurt about my comment but that would give him plenty of room to expand with a better sounding system. JUST MY OPINION
Yes i am running two 12 type r's off a kicker kx1200.1
I am recommending him a better line of subs of a company he is already pleased with. he also mentioned a possibility of a 800 watt amp. So anywhere from 800-1000 true rms will be sufficient in a fbody. Definetly giving him the results hes looking for.
So im not sure why ur so butthurt about my comment but that would give him plenty of room to expand with a better sounding system. JUST MY OPINION
I am recommending him a better line of subs of a company he is already pleased with. he also mentioned a possibility of a 800 watt amp. So anywhere from 800-1000 true rms will be sufficient in a fbody. Definetly giving him the results hes looking for.
So im not sure why ur so butthurt about my comment but that would give him plenty of room to expand with a better sounding system. JUST MY OPINION