dragonrage

No, you may want an upgraded alternator to actually make the power it might need. Forget a capacitor. Forget a second battery unless you want the system to run with the car off.

1badWS6

iTrader: (32)

So I've been doing a lot of research on the SE series sub from RE and I'm gonna end up going with two 10"s for the stealth boxes I am going to have on each side. My question is, what amp should I be looking around for that is going to make these things sound hella nice. I'm looking to spend around 300 bones. Also, should I go with the 4 ohm or 2 ohm version of the subs?

dragonrage

Depends on the amp you get. I'd say US Amps XT4000d amp and go for 2 dual 4-ohm SE10s. Put all the voice coils in parallel for 1 ohm. Enjoy 1500WRMS from your amplifier. I would recommend 2 gauge wire. I'd get it from the site "weldingsupply" - it ain't as pretty, but it's cheap and it's really the gauge they say it is (instead of a thick insulation with hardly any copper)

You'll need an upgraded alternator if you use that setup to its maximum. And if you run the audio with the car off, turn off the subwoofers or keep it low. If you don't want to upgrade your alternator then there's little reason to even get 2 subwoofers.

By the way, US Amps owns RE Audio. They're good amps - I am not recommending them because of their "relationship."

If you buy on Ebay, look up the live.com cashback deal. I think it's 8 or 10% at the moment.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Yup I already have the dist. block and all the wiring already set up since I already have two amp's and a sub in the back. The current amp and sub just suck! This new amp is like 20" long so I'm probably gonna have to drill some new holes and stuff cause from what I measured it's JUST going to fit.

Sooo.. capacitor or what? It's gonna suck if I need a new alternator lol.

1badWS6, dragonrage is spot on with the info he just gave you. If you get dual 4OHM voice coil subs and run them parallel @ 1OHM, you'll get all the power outta the amp. Make sure you find an amp that is capable of being run at 1OHM though, it'll usually say "1OHM Stable: Yes/No." From what I just "experienced," find an amp that is a little over your total subwoofer RMS wattage, that way (like earlier stated) you have some "breathing room."

Dragon, correct me if I'm wrong but: Lets say you get two subs, their RMS range is 450-600 .. You'd probably want something that's over 1200W RMS, well over that. The RE Audio 10" were what, 600-1200W? You're gonna need a big amp, man!

dragonrage

Capacitors may help if your alternator is a "little" too small. But if you're running 1500WRMS, you're going to need a new alternator. 200A minimum.

P.S. I am not doing well keeping track of different people asking stuff in this thread, so you all will have to figure out who I'm talking to.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

It's gonna be @ 2OHM which is 900W RMS, and that's in a month when I get my sub. Until now It's gonna be 4OHM at I think 500W it was. I'm gonna end up blowing up my Rockford Punch..

dragonrage

900WRMS... Well, depending on how you do your listening, you MIGHT be OK with the stock alternator. But if you're pushing it, I'd recommend a new one even for that. It could probably get away with a 160A. Try it first. You can try a capacitor if you need to. I don't expect a capacitor to help in most cases, though.

Hell, my JL 500/5 (underrated, but still) could have used one. But I don't think my alternator was that good, anyway.

#8sprkplug

i dont think i would get that, i remember hearing that the lower end US amps were overrated n fact it was the owner that said that and that it was OK because other companies did it. they make good stuff just stay away from the XT series

dragonrage

Eh, XT isn't that bad. MD2D is better, but it's not twice as good. I'd certainly recommend the MD2D if the guy wants to spend that kind of money, though. I had an MD2D a while ago. That thing was a monster.

Dal1as

It also depends on how efficient the amps are and the battery. I'm pushing almost 1500 watts (rms) with my system. Went with an Excessive Amperage 200 amp alternator. After a whole bunch of trouble (underdrive pulleys cause issues) and then being ripped off I went back to a rebuilt stock one and I've been fine. I crank my music quite often and even play it with the car off. No issues.

The yellow top also helps.

dragonrage

Never, ever use an underdrive pulley.

M-ManLA

^ Agreed! No Underdrive pulleys if you are using a high powered stereo system. And Optima Yellow Top will be good also. That is one of my future purchases.

1badWS6

iTrader: (32)

I got an Optima red top in my car. But, any suggestions for an amp in the 300 dollar range? I wouldn't necessarily say that I'm going to push them to the max, I just want to get some serious bass out of them, that they are capable of. Which I know they are/will be. So any suggestions for a new amp can help.

dragonrage

I still say the XT4000d. If you want to go better, you can get the MD2D. It's like $350 on Ebay. You can get 8-10% off with the cashback deal. The XT4000d is like $2xx on Ebay. The MD2D is better, but not proportionally so.

1badWS6

iTrader: (32)

Good **** man, I'll definitely be checking them out. Sounds like the 4000d is the way I might want to go. How would you go about wiring them up as well? Oh and I do plan on getting the 4ohm subs.

1badWS6

iTrader: (32)

..and where is this cashback deal thing located? I can't seem to find it.

dragonrage

Google the following: live.com cashback deal

For the XT4000d and the MD2D you'd want 2 dual-4-ohm subwoofers and you'd wire all the voice coils in parallel for a 1 ohm load. If you got a different amp, it might be different.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Wait wait wait.. Why isn't it good to have a UD pulley and a stereo system? I have a mild system right now, i'm gonna be adding in the 1500W amp (probably running around 750W RMS tho) and a new 10" sub, and I have an Underdrive pulley. Why is this bad?!

Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

Your amp might not supply enough power to the entire system.

M-ManLA

Underdrive pulleys are made to reduce the electrical current used for they accessory power (like your radio), and put it towards more power for the engine parts. It will not like your Amps that you are putting in your car.