98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Hey guys,

I've had a Rockford Fosgate punch stage 1 (4OHM) bridged to a 2 channel 425W amp for some time now. To be honest, the sub really isn't that good. It compliments the music nicely, but it's not enough to be heard from outside the car. So i'm wondering, is the box, the sub, or both of them the problem.

I think I'm going to swap the Punch out for a 10" Type-R and put it in the stealth box, but my friend who worked at a stereo shop for years is telling me I have to put the type-r in a bazooka tube that he has, 'cause in his dad's car it hits as loud as his 12's.

I want mirror shaking bass, at least bass that will hit HARD. Should I get a new sub and use the stealth enclosure, the bazooka tube, or do I need more than one sub.

Thanks guys

dragonrage

I had a Fi Q12 (12", obviously) in a stealthbox from KEE Audio and it did damn well for what it was.

Type-R is not too bad, but don't get one. They are not all THAT "serious". A Fi Q10 (and MANY other subs that I could name-let me know if you're curious-but Q10/Q12 are IMO the best for our stealthboxes) will kick the R's *** ANY DAY.

Dal1as

I had the current setup in the below link using the basic stealthbox but eventually had a custom one done which gives the sub almost a cubic foot. It has always hit hard but now it will misalign my rearview mirror on some notes. I'm pushing almost a thousand watts to the sub though. Type R won't do what I explained.

http://www.carstereo.com/installs/ph...&galleryid=753

LeadfootDuramax

iTrader: (6)

Spending some money on a quality sub and having enough power will make all the difference. I had JL and replaced those with some Image Dynamics and they are awesome. I would look at something like Image Dynamics. They are quality subs and designed to work in smaller enclosures such as a stealth box. It sounds like you hae enough power from your amp assuming it is a quality amp and pushing what the manufacturere claims.

my bandit

iTrader: (10)

ive got the JL steathbox (10w3) with an alpine 450w amp and it shakes the rear view mirror and the sode mirrors. the amp is pretty important when it comes to this stuff.
it hits pretty hard compared to my friends 12's.

Dal1as

True. One of the reasons I picked the Diamond Audio sub and amp. Ended up being a great combo.

Trying to stuff a huge sub in a small box will end up sounding worse.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Here are the specs for my sub amp:

* RMS Power Range : 85 Watts
* Number Of Channels: 2
* Maximum Power: 425 Watts
* Built In Crossovers: Yes
* Channel Separation: Yes

# CEA Dynamic Power (all channels): 425 Watts (212.5 x 2)
# CEA RMS Power Per Channel @ 4 ohm: 85 Watts x 2
# Side mounted preamp controls
# Continuously variable crossover from 40 ~ 250Hz

Is the amp strong enough or is it a piece of crap? lol.

I really don't know what everything means, I know how to hook everything up correctly though. So should I stick with the stealth box or would the bazooka tube hit harder?

Could I get any recommendations on a sub? And what would be the best, Dual 2OHM , 4OHM etc etc

dragonrage

It's a piece of crap.

#8sprkplug

if your getting a type-r a new amp would be a MUST, type-r's are very power hungry get something like 600rms at least.

and no a bazooka tube wouldn't do ****

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Alright, so I need a new amp, and a bazooka tube is a piece of ****?

Edit: Wow does that say 85W RMS? Wtf?

M-ManLA

RF Punch Stage 1 is not the best sub on the market. I think that it only handles about 250 Watts RMS. There is a rule of thumb, if your speaker amp is outputting 150w of power, then your sub should be doing at least 300w. That is because your high frequencies won't need as much power to sound loud as much as your lower frequencies.

That being said, you will need to look at your sub amp, and make sure not only the volume is up, but the filter is set at an appropriate level. make sure you really don't have too many higher frequencies going to your sub ( you will know when you can make out the words the artist says). You want to get it where the sub is capturing the bass that the speakers left off at.

Also, check your bass boost and make sure it is up. I would also see your head unit, and see if the bass is up, as well as check if there is a separate sub control on it.

Now also remember that your box will also make a difference. If you go with a sealed box, like the stealth box are, they will sound tighter, but they will need more power through them. If your box is ported, The bass will be a little looser, but there is a lot of air running through them, and it will sound louder. This is a popular choice with people that listens to Hip-Hop and electronica-type music. There is also the bandpass box, which includes a sealed and ported elements that will make it THUMP!

Your amp should try to get within the subs' operating range. Example if your sub RMS rating is between 100-300w, then you want a amp to match that, especially the higher range. Your amp can even exceed the sub power rating, but make sure you set the amp appropriately. You will most likely never use the full range of the amp nor sub (if that was to happen, you will be deaf in a matter or weeks). Also the higher the amp output wattage, the less likely your sub will distort or clip at higher volumes.

Also look for a sub with a high sensitivity rating. Around 83 and up should be good. If you get like a Alpine Type-R, it can handle a lot of power, but won't hit without a lot of power being thrown into it. The Sony XS series subs will be more efficient at a lower range because of the higher sensitivity rating.

I hope that makes some sense.

M-ManLA

Almost forgot, get Dynamat. It makes a world of difference.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Thanks man, a lot of good info there. Seems like I'm gonna need a new amp and a new sub.. and some money. So, basically, if I get a 10" Type R which has a 200-500W power range, to be safe I should have a 500W RMS amp as well? Sounds about right.

One question I do have though, is what is everything about impedance (OHMs) Is one kind better than the other? Dual 4OHM, Dual 2OHM, 4OHM etc. etc. I understand they are wired up in different ways but is one better than another depending on their application and such. I'm just looking to run one hard thumping 10", so is one better for that application?

Oh yeah, also, my amp has "HPF, FULL, and LPF" settings, i'm guessing High Pass Filter? Idk what the hell that even means. And I probably want a mono channel amp if it's just for the sub right?

Thanks everyone!

dragonrage

Bazooka ANYTHING sucks. And get Raammat or Second Skin over Dynamat - the former is cheaper and better than Dynamat (worse than Xtreme) and the second is not cheap but is the best you can get.

69lemansguy

iTrader: (12)

HPF-high pass filter, it lets the highs through. FULL-lets all sound through. LPF-low pass filter, lets all the lows through, which would be your subs. so you def want it set on LPF. you would use HPF if you had this amp powering your cab speakers. This could also make a big difference if you have had it set on the wrong thing this whole time. Your sub will also soudn liek *** if the gain and freq arent adjusted properly.

69lemansguy

iTrader: (12)

i have two P2 fosgate subs in a sealed box being pushed by a fosgate amp. My subs hit very hard, certain notes hit and i cant see out of any of my mirrors.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Yeah well my amp is the next problem haha. The sub is definitely on LPF because I remember setting it to HPF and it barely got any sound out of it, so I switched it to the other one. The only other thing is, I didn't know how to set the frequencies and stuff, so idk where those are at. The level is a little past the middle. Other than that, Idk how to set that other stuff up.

#8sprkplug

its never a bad idea to get a amp a little more powerful than your speakers rating so you have 'headroom'

and it depends on how low of an impedance your amp is stable to, if its 1ohm stable than you would want a dual 2ohm sub hooked up like this http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...1&woofer_imp=3 if its 2 ohm stable than you would want a sub thats dual 4ohm hooked it up like this http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...1&woofer_imp=4 and so on

and ya just get a mono amp

also keep in mind you are only gonna get so much out of a single sealed low end 10" you may want to end up going with a passenger side stealth box also then you would have twice the cone area.

dragonrage

80Hz is a typical good crossover frequency for a subwoofer. Of course, what you should use varies from setup to setup, but 80Hz is standard. Don't go above 100Hz for sure. I've heard people that have their subwoofers set so that you can hear voice from them. Come on. That's horrible.

69lemansguy

iTrader: (12)

both guys above are right on. and a 2nd sub is a must in my oppinion. and most places will cut youa deal on teh 2nd sub anyway. plus im **** about things being symetrical, if i only had one sub it would drive me nuts.