Stero help needed!!!!
Stero help needed!!!! 97 WS6 Formula. Been having issues with the volume turning up and down on it's own. Did have an issue with the BCM, but now the radio seems to stay on with a rag wedge between the BCM and the blower housing. I tried the BCM fix soldering the contacts listed in a sticky here, still have the same problem. My windows and door locks work fine, although the door chime doesn't work(thank god) and sometimes the dome light doesnt. I'm wanting to just work around the BCM for my stereo. Now a power and ground source i can find, just not sure where i could find a remote lead/source???? I know the tweeters in the doors and the very rear speakers run just off the factory HU. I'm wondering if i could use that wiring to power my cheapo kenwoods in the doors and in the very rear, then just run my lil Alpine amp to power 2 6.5lanzar midbass. The speakers are all in there now and sound pretty decent running off the monsoon amp even though the ohms aren't all correct. I'm not going all out or anything, just would like to drive down the road without having to push the volume up button all day. Please help!!! It's t-tops weather and i want it to scream again. BCM is currently still hanging, so if anyone knows something else i could try on it.....????
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The BCM has nothing to do with the stereo other than to provide power through the RAP (Retained Accessory Power) circuit. If you were to change the head unit's power supply to an ordinary ignition-switched setup then it would go on and off with the ignition and the BCM would not be involved at all.
The volume going up and down on its own sounds like an internal HU problem. You could try using some tuner/contact spray cleaner from Radio Shack on the volume control but chances are you'll have to replace the HU to fix the problem.
There is no remote wire - the amp turns on using signal sensing from the speaker input wires.
The volume going up and down on its own sounds like an internal HU problem. You could try using some tuner/contact spray cleaner from Radio Shack on the volume control but chances are you'll have to replace the HU to fix the problem.
There is no remote wire - the amp turns on using signal sensing from the speaker input wires.
well i already disassembled the HU trying to see if something was broke/disconnected inside. I already have a cheapo JVC cd player to put in. I really don't want to run all new speaker wires through the jambs into the doors though. I'll need a remote wire for my Alpine amp i am using to replace the monsoon and will also need a remote source for the cd deck itself.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You can easily install the aftermarket head unit without replacing the Monsoon amp, speakers, or wiring. Just get a mounting kit, a harness adapter, and an antenna adapter and it will plug right into the factory wiring.
You can't replace the Monsoon amp without rewiring. If you want to go to that much work then you can use either the power antenna wire or the same power wire as the HU for a remote turn-on for your amp.
You can't replace the Monsoon amp without rewiring. If you want to go to that much work then you can use either the power antenna wire or the same power wire as the HU for a remote turn-on for your amp.
yeah, that's one of my problems though, the wiring adapter for the new HU is empty in one of the 4 locations(SLOTS) and that same location on the factory harness has one dark blue wire that has no where to plug into. Then my factory head unit has 2 plug in harnesses, i think one is for the monsoon amp and it has an exposed wire going into the plug, the new adapter only fits the the 4slot connector, not the single one that is closer to the passenger side. Someone had an aftermarket alarm installed at one point, so who know's if that dark blue wire was added, but it doesn't look like it. Is there a special adapter for the monsoon systems?
OK, did some reading on your post and i'm guessing that other plug on the back of my factory HU is for the CD changer which wasn't in my car, but it was plugged in. Thanks for all the help, I'll be wiring as soon as i'm off work!
OK, did some reading on your post and i'm guessing that other plug on the back of my factory HU is for the CD changer which wasn't in my car, but it was plugged in. Thanks for all the help, I'll be wiring as soon as i'm off work!
Last edited by oldNslow89TA; Jul 1, 2009 at 04:05 PM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The extra dark blue wire is for steering wheel controls. Most aftermarket harness adapters don't include that wire because no (or very few) aftermarket head units have built-in support for steering wheel controls. They all require an adapter such as the SWI-PS or SWI-JACK.
Yes, the other plug is for the factory CD changer. The harness is installed in all Monsoon systems even if the car didn't come with a changer from the factory. Even if you have a factory changer, it doesn't work with any aftermarket head units so there is no need for that harness - just leave it unplugged.
Yes, the other plug is for the factory CD changer. The harness is installed in all Monsoon systems even if the car didn't come with a changer from the factory. Even if you have a factory changer, it doesn't work with any aftermarket head units so there is no need for that harness - just leave it unplugged.
Ok, new JVC is in the dash and works, but still shorting out with the volume up past 1/3 way due to the RAP, going to try soldering again once more. If that doesn't work, is there a way to disable the RAP in the BCM? i really don't need the radio staying on after or the windows, any ideas???
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Just what makes you think the BCM RAP circuit is the problem...or even involved in any way? The BCM neither knows nor cares how high you turn the volume. It just provides ignition controlled power when the ignition is on and then switches to battery (constant) power when the ignition is switched off until a door is opened.
Do your windows stop working at the same time the radio cuts out? If not, there's no way the RAP circuit is the problem.
Do your windows stop working at the same time the radio cuts out? If not, there's no way the RAP circuit is the problem.
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Verdad Gallardo read the thread on here(https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-l...blems-fix.html PG 4&5 HAVE GOOD PICS) about locks/windows/and radios cutting in and out with temperature changes, well my radio would cut in and out all the time until i stuffed a shop rag in between the BCM and the blower motor housing. My door locks didn't work a couple times before i put the rag in there to hold pressure against it. I didn't have much of a problem til it got 90+ outside a month ago. Then it would just turn the volume up and down on it's own. With the factory HU it will let me turn it up, but automatically comes back down. I pulled the volume switch in the steering wheel and it still it wouldn't turn up on the factory HU. So i ruled out the switch. The volume **** on my factory HU actually turns the volume up when you try to turn the volume down and always has since i got the car.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
It is certainly possible (even likely) that the radio was cutting out because of a BCM problem. The problem would be that the RAP circuit was cutting out and cutting off power to the head unit.
That has nothing to do with your volume control. The volume won't change because of changing voltage at the power input of the head unit (at least not significantly). The HU will maintain the same volume until the voltage gets too low and then it just shuts off.
You may have a BCM problem because you have to have a rag stuffed in behind it but it sure as hell doesn't have anything to do with your volume control.
That has nothing to do with your volume control. The volume won't change because of changing voltage at the power input of the head unit (at least not significantly). The HU will maintain the same volume until the voltage gets too low and then it just shuts off.
You may have a BCM problem because you have to have a rag stuffed in behind it but it sure as hell doesn't have anything to do with your volume control.
any ideas on what would be causing the volume control issue? Right after i installed the new deck it sounded awesome. After about 10minutes it started cutting out/shorting so i turned it off. It's all still going through the monsoon amp, could the amp be the culprit?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Certainly, connecting speakers directly to the HU will tell you if the problem is in the amp or the HU. In a Firebird, you should notice a change in tone as well as a change in volume if the amp is faulty. That's because the four tweeters are wired directly to the head unit while everything else goes through the amp. So an amp failure would leave the tweeters at normal volume while the other speakers cut out causing a noticeable shift in sound toward the higher frequencies.
