Paging whitebird for some blinker help
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
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From: cookeville, TN
Paging whitebird for some blinker help you were a lot of help in this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...er-wiring.html
but design has changed now i have a strip of led's for the drl's and i want it to double duty as the blinker, but i dont know how that whole double filliment thing is going to work out as i know now that the drl module controls the dim and high filiments according to the headlights being on
thanks for the help
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...er-wiring.html
but design has changed now i have a strip of led's for the drl's and i want it to double duty as the blinker, but i dont know how that whole double filliment thing is going to work out as i know now that the drl module controls the dim and high filiments according to the headlights being on
thanks for the help
Last edited by blackbyrd; Jul 5, 2009 at 03:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
ok so basically i think im gonna but the drls on switched ignition, and can i just add the blinker wire to that, will that make the blinker work or do i need to do something else
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
If you haven't modified the DRL module connections (behind the radio) then you don't have to do much to accomplish what you want. There are three wires at each DRL/turn signal/parking light socket. They are brown, black, and blue (light blue on the left and dark blue on the right). The black is ground and the brown is parking lights (the dim filament in the bulb). The blue wire powers the bright filament for use as both DRL and turn signal.
All you have to do is cut the blue wire on each side and use it to power your LED lights - the logic of DRL versus turn signal is already taken care of for you by the DRL module. Leaving the original brown and black wires ensures that the parking lights will still work with the headlights as they're supposed to.
All you have to do is cut the blue wire on each side and use it to power your LED lights - the logic of DRL versus turn signal is already taken care of for you by the DRL module. Leaving the original brown and black wires ensures that the parking lights will still work with the headlights as they're supposed to.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
so that is going to let the led strip be my drls and my blinker
seems so easy to me,
but thanks alot when im finished ill be starting a new thread in the appearance section that has finished pics of the new bumper and the new drls
its actually on right now but i wired the leds up to my fogs (i dont have any right now) so i could decide on mounting
but thanks again for all your help
seems so easy to me,
but thanks alot when im finished ill be starting a new thread in the appearance section that has finished pics of the new bumper and the new drls
its actually on right now but i wired the leds up to my fogs (i dont have any right now) so i could decide on mounting
but thanks again for all your help
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
k so i hooked the blue and black wires up, and the blinkers are working but the drls arent coming on i checked my fuses in the dash and didnt see any blown ones any suggestions as to why the drls arent coming on??
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Were the DRLs working prior to modifying the lights? The power to the front lights goes through the DRL module for both turn signals and DRLs. If your signals are working then the DRLs should also work unless the module is damaged or unplugged.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
the filament bulb was on before i wired them into the the drl wireing. the fuse for them are under the dash right? i havnt messed with the module to my knowledge might be wrong i will double check it i moved some stuff when i took my dash out but you said that module controled the blinker and the high filament right?
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Get at the DRL module by removing the radio. You will find it mounted to the ductwork behind the radio. It has two plugs. One plug has dark blue, dark blue with white, light blue, and light blue with white wires. The white striped wires are the input from the turn signal switch (light blue for left and dark blue for right). We know the input works because your signals work. The unstriped wires are the output to the front lights. Use a test light or multimeter to check for power on those two wires when the ignition is on and the parking brake is off (they don't turn on until the parking brake is released). That will tell you if the DRL module is working.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
ah parking break is on i converted to a manual and didnt know that (didnt use it much in the auto) let me check if that fixes it.
yeah that got it (lack of knowledge usually the problem huh)
yeah that got it (lack of knowledge usually the problem huh)
Last edited by blackbyrd; Jul 12, 2009 at 08:46 PM.
i want to see how those LED's look, Any nice led fog light kits? but first i have to get my turn signals to work, you know your stuff whitebird, i just always end up with the weird issues, did i tell you when it gets cold outside, i only have 3rd gear(limp mode) until it gets warm? after it's warm, i can turn it off and back on and all 4 gears work fine
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
I did t want to start a new thread but could use @WhiteBird00 help again.
Different set of led straps with a switch back functiom I've got the drl module mode covered looking st other conversarions i can just bypass the drl so the blinker function will work. Ive gott tk give the primary drl a switched ignition voltage, what im curious on is where is the best place to access those wires? Is there a place in the dash to feed that into the inside fuse panel?
I've gone to great lengths to clean up wiring innthe engine bay and while i can do more and tap into the engine bay, i have a plan to delete a lot of useless wiring since I'm running a stand alone ecm leaving a lot of the 2 fuse panels kind if vacant, but doing it from inside the cabin might be cleaner? I soldered in a 3 line duetch connector for the DRL's. This curre tky functions as we originally discussed where they behave as DRLs until switching the blinker. Once the see a signal onbthe blinker wire they will cycle a sweeping yellow led, just need the third wire enabled currently they just switch off.
So as I understand it if i bypass the drl module and give the Drl a separate switched ignition source via the brown wire, and repin the blue wire to the blinker signal all is good. Just wondering if the brown wires go into the cabin. Part kf the DRL module connections?
Different set of led straps with a switch back functiom I've got the drl module mode covered looking st other conversarions i can just bypass the drl so the blinker function will work. Ive gott tk give the primary drl a switched ignition voltage, what im curious on is where is the best place to access those wires? Is there a place in the dash to feed that into the inside fuse panel?
I've gone to great lengths to clean up wiring innthe engine bay and while i can do more and tap into the engine bay, i have a plan to delete a lot of useless wiring since I'm running a stand alone ecm leaving a lot of the 2 fuse panels kind if vacant, but doing it from inside the cabin might be cleaner? I soldered in a 3 line duetch connector for the DRL's. This curre tky functions as we originally discussed where they behave as DRLs until switching the blinker. Once the see a signal onbthe blinker wire they will cycle a sweeping yellow led, just need the third wire enabled currently they just switch off.
So as I understand it if i bypass the drl module and give the Drl a separate switched ignition source via the brown wire, and repin the blue wire to the blinker signal all is good. Just wondering if the brown wires go into the cabin. Part kf the DRL module connections?
Last edited by blackbyrd; Jun 28, 2022 at 07:50 PM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
As far as getting ignition switched power from inside - yes, there is a place inside that is specifically designed for adding electrical accessories. In the fuse box on the end of the dash there are three extra ports which are designated to provide power for accessories. I provided more detail in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-st...-4th-gens.html.
I'm not sure I get the rest of your question... you may have been using your phone so there's a lot of typos. What is a "duetch" connector?
The brown wire is part of the parking/running light circuit. It powers the tail lights, side markers, and the dim filament of the front lamps as well as the dash illumination. Yes, it is available inside the cabin at the headlight switch - but NO, you should not use it. There is no easy way to isolate the wires going to the front parking/turn signal/DRL lamps from the rest of the circuit, so you'd end up providing ignition power to all of your exterior lamps plus the dash.
I'm not sure I get the rest of your question... you may have been using your phone so there's a lot of typos. What is a "duetch" connector?
The brown wire is part of the parking/running light circuit. It powers the tail lights, side markers, and the dim filament of the front lamps as well as the dash illumination. Yes, it is available inside the cabin at the headlight switch - but NO, you should not use it. There is no easy way to isolate the wires going to the front parking/turn signal/DRL lamps from the rest of the circuit, so you'd end up providing ignition power to all of your exterior lamps plus the dash.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
Yeah I've become wordy in my old age that combined with my current phone (samsung fold) make typos rampant..... Duetch connectors are just a style/brand of automotive electrical connectors like the kind found on engine harnesses. I added them since the strips are bonded to the bumper and if I ever had to pull it off I wanted to disconnect them instead of cut wires.
I was trying to avoid doing it all in the engine bay cause of the difficulty accessing my fuse panel. It's below the engine bay in the area beneath the head light. Sounds like I just need to send a wire from each brown wire and merge it near the fuse bank and plug it in there like in your link
I was trying to avoid doing it all in the engine bay cause of the difficulty accessing my fuse panel. It's below the engine bay in the area beneath the head light. Sounds like I just need to send a wire from each brown wire and merge it near the fuse bank and plug it in there like in your link
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
got it sorted out finally, blinkers work and DRL's behave. Got an atm style fuze tap and used it in a empty slot in the engine bay buse panel. Tucked the wiring in the bumper and once i put the splash panels on youll never see it.
Thanks for the help!