Ok I installed some new projector fog lights w/ Halos, that I will be giving a write-up on but I finished the install and the fogs keep throwing the 20amp taillamp fuse on the drivers side fuse box. I don't know why they are throwing the fuse but they are. The new fog lights are hooked right up to the original fog light connection and I haven't wired up the Halos. I double checked the connections coming out of the fogs to make sure the negatives and positives match up and they do. Please help me.

 

I also put in a 30amp fuse in the taillamp spot and it even threw that.

 

First thing, don't use a higher amperage fuse. That will just cause wires to melt. A fuse's job is to pop before wires melt. If you put in a higher amperage fuse, you just swapped the order of operation and the wires may now melt before the fuse pops which is a very bad thing.

What is the power rating of the bulbs in the new fog light housings? What fog light housings did you get?

Does the fuse blow instantly, or do the lights work for a while? If they blow instantly, then its definitely a wiring problem. How did you install the fog lights?

 

I just wired them up the same way the stock ones were cause they came with this little adapter that plugs right up.

Here you can see the connection that has bullet connectors and is covered with a shrink tube.
And here is one of the actual connector

 

I don't know what type of bulb they use besides its an H3 bulb. Any ideas what throws it, it throws it almost instantly. The little light on my fog light switch wont even light up for a second and when its blows I have no interior lighting gauge cluster and so on. So thats all thats on it. When I was wiring it up I had the rivers side done and flipped the switch and it came on. Then I did the passenger side and flipped it and neither came on. So I thought it was the passenger and took it off but everything is wired up right? I am clueless...

 

The power rating shouldn't really matter should it? As long as its like 55 watt you can put those in your stock housings. Right.

 

i think lol not too sure
look if its blowing the fuse really fast
its pretty simple. it your positive and negative touching some where.... its not suppose to. thats why its blowing your fuse.
so check your wires again... check if theres no burn marks
if worse comes to worse replace the wires?
try running the light straight from the bat if they work?
it might be a internal error thats making this happen
idk im just trying to give you ideas.

 

thanks ws6kid I think I'll will take them out and test them with a battery.

So if it blows as soon as you put the fuse in then its probably a short circuit.

Then a fuse that holds its own for a while then blows would just be one that seeing too much current?

 

Correct.

Fast Blow = Short Circuit
Works for a while = Too Much Current (or bad connection causing mild/intermittent short)

In you case, since the driver's side seems to work fine, but when the passenger side is connected, the fuse blows instantly, I'd say there is a short circuit in the wiring of the passenger side housing.

Try this:
* Unplug from the stock wiring
* Remove the bulb from the housing
* Connect a multimeter (in the ohm setting) to the two pins in the connector from the housing

The multimeter should show an open connection (infinite resistance). If you see any rating indicating no resistance or a small resistance, then there is definitely a short in the wiring. You'll have to trace it.

 

Ok big help VIP1. I really appreciate it. I will try the multimeter. I keep you guys posted and thanks for the help. I also post a link to the write up for these fog lights. I think they look really good setting in there.

 

I found my problem my whole fog light was being charged and once I bolted it up it connected to ground and shorted out. Thanks

 

Still couldn't figure out how to get em wired up without grounding out. So I got some hid's which have plastic fittings. They took care of the problem.

 

I had this same problem and it ended up being the ballast.