Alright guys I'm gona start off by listing what I took out of my Camaro before I sold it.
10' MTX Thunder 4500 in Stealth box
Sony Headunit CDX-GT400 with front IPOD AUX
1400 Watt 4 Channel MDX Amp
Several Infinity 6022i 6.5s

I put that system together when I was only 16 and I didnt learn the power of research. I just picked up an 01 WS6 and wanted to change it up a bit. 1st order of business, reccomend me a sub that will hit hard. I was greatly disappointed with the output of the MTX sub. I basically jumped on it cause it was on sale and met the mounting depth needed for the stealth boxes. I decided I am going to order an amp rack so I can utilize my ttop storage. I really like the steering wheel controls on my Trans Am that I didnt have on my Camaro. I assume theres no way to make the wheel controls work with an aftermarket head unit so I will scratch the Sony headunit, but correct me if I'm wrong. One thing I want is to be able to use my IPOD and I came across the Jason Novak Jack and was wondering if there was any other options. Basically I'm looking for you guys to point me in the direction of a hard hitting sub that will fit in my stealth box and a way to utilize the steering wheel controls and hook up my ipod. Thanks in advance and sorry for the lengthy post.

-Matt

 

check out my setup.
looks liek something u want
and its also a ta
i have a alpine type r (sub)and that thing is great!
i also liked the controls on the wheel but i had to give them up
im not sure if my head unit supports
control interface... idk
heres the link
(you should leave a comment also )

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tall-pics.html

 

Nice setup man. Left you a comment. Hows the type R sub hit? I hear it will make the ear drums rattle, which is exactly what I want out of one 10' without the overkill of a big box with 2 subs.

 

The steering wheel controls can be used with almost any aftermarket head unit that has remote control. There is a universal adapter for most HUs with infrared remotes (all except some Sony units) and there are brand specific adapters for HUs that have a jack for a wired remote. The universal model is the SWI-X. The SWI-JACK is for JVC, Alpine, Clarion, and Kenwood. The SWI-PS is for Pioneer and Sony.

There are also adapters that will allow you to connect your iPod to a factory head unit using the CD changer port on the back but aftermarket HUs integrate with iPods better and they also sound better.

 

great sub man
mosy of the people that get to listen to the system
while insde the car
say there ear drums rattle a bit
But i dont feel it Any more

 

do you know if my head unit can use those controls??
iDA-X305
Digital Media Receiver

 

Type R is not that great a subwoofer. It's not crap, but it's not great. The sound quality is a bit lacking, too. A Fi Q10 or Q12 would be a much better option.

 

Thanks Whitebird. If i figure out the model of my Sony HU would I be able to determine weather the SWI-PS will work with it? I know the HU came with a remote that I lost years ago.

 

Yes, the SWI-JACK is compatible with that model (it is compatible with all recent Alpine models).

It's possible but I doubt it. The SWI-PS is a hardwired adapter that plugs into a jack on the back of recent model Pioneer and Sony head units. Most older models don't have that jack. If you get the model number you will be able to determine if it is compatible with the SWI-X infrared adapter. Several older Sony HUs wouldn't work with that either.

 

Man you are going deaf!!!!

 

Two questions?

1. Can I hook up a sub to the stock monsoon headunit? (RCAs, remote wirer, and what not).

2. Will this Type R fit the stealth box? I cant find depth of the sub on the ad.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-SWR-1022D...item45efa1c828

 

PLEASE spend your money on the BOX!!! NOT the SUB! And if you are wanting alot of bass, do NOT get a stealth-style box. You can make a $100 sub SLAM with a properly biult enclosure with a properly tuned port. The sub is not what matters most, its the box. Back in the day of when I first started competing, I had 3 12"s in a sealed box as my "street system". It hit 143.7 db @ 43 hz. I took 1 sub out and put a port in for competition and hit 148.9 db, @ 44 hz. And remember, every 10 db is TWICE as loud. My current street system setup is just ONE 12" in a ported box and hits 145s @ 37 hz. The lower the frenquency goes, it gets MUCH harder to produce SPL. Just please get a box professionally built and tuned around 35 hz. I PROMISE you it will exceed your expectations!

If you must stick with a stealth box, then just keep what you have because you will never get a tremendous amount of bass out of it, regardless of the sub or how much power you have to it.

Now, Type-R subs are decent mid-level subs. I've had several in the past and they sounded great. And for the everyday user, it should provide plenty.

Unless you want to spend a ton of money on a HU, don't get a Sony. Their top-end HUs are very nice, but not so much the low end ones. I would look into getting an Eclipse HU. They are very good quality and fairly priced, regardless of whether or not they are entry-level or high-end.

Your BEST bet for listening to your iPod is to get a USB adapter for it and a HU with a USB input and iPod-ready.

Yes you can hook up amps to power subs, speakers, etc, to the stock Monsoon, but this requires a speaker-level adapter and is HORRIBLE for sound quality and output. I would rather have a $75 Boss HU with RCAs than a stock HU.

Feel free to ask me anything you want. I have been doing this for many years and can help you out with anything you need.

 

Boxes are certainly important, but you don't need to spend a lot on one....

Every 2dB is twice as loud? LOL. No. Every 10dB is twice as loud. Every 3dB is twice the power, but it takes 10dB (10x the power) to be twice as loud.

 

You can't say that 3x the power is twice as loud. There are way more variables than that. And I meant 10db is twice as loud, my bad. Fixed.
And spending a TON of money on a box isn't necessary, but its better spent on the initial box than the sub. I would rather spend $250 on a professional box and $150 on a sub than $100 on a box and $300 on a sub.

 

Not wrong.

 

Huh??

 

It made sense before you edited your post.

You only need to spend a lot (or build your own) for a ported box. Sealed boxes are not as efficient but they are much easier to work with. F-bodies aren't the best cars for ported boxes because they generally need to be bigger. I wouldn't have been willing to give up even more of the little space that I had back there when I had my Camaro.

 

I see...

And I agree. But spending the extra money on a ported box vs sub is much better.

 

98Camaro I have a few questions for you. I don't really want to go with a sit in box as I want to keep my Ttop trays. Ive come across nice boxes I can get with 2 subs but I also dont want that extra weight with 2 subs. Im looking for good bass but not alot of weight/clutter. It seems that the stealth box wont acheive me heavy bass but its what I would like to stick with. My main concern is keeping the steering wheel controls functional I dont mind if I have to go with an aftermarket headunit. The Sony I have is a model CDX-GT400. Its old so Im sure it wont work with the steering wheel controls.

 

id have to agree with 98camaro about the type r's.
Heres a a pic of my old setup with subthumps stealth box and amp rack and a pdx 600.1 pushing the sub. The shitty Jensen is just a place holder and not running anything.

Ear rattling is not how I would describe the sound. I switched to a dual 10 box, added another type r and another PDX 600.1 and still not pleased with the sound. Granted there are other things that factor into my displeasure besides the subs themselves, just saying... I was really pleased with my Camaros setup with subthumps dual 12 ttop box with L5's and a Kicker 1500.1however. Depending on your budget, you can get a ported well box built that lets you retain your ttop trays, or use a subthump ttop sealed box. If youre like me, the stealth box will not give you the bass you are looking for.