Rear well sub box (new pics on page 3)
#61
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nice job on the new pics...
i have a couple questions, you guys have inspired me to make my own stealth box. (still need room for ttops)
*Where did you get the gray rug material to cover the box and how was it applied?
*How did you know what size port to use and where to mount it?
*Does porting it enhance the lower "boom" of the speaker? is that the purpose?
*Did you use MDF wood?
*did you use silicone to seal the box?
thanks
i have a couple questions, you guys have inspired me to make my own stealth box. (still need room for ttops)
*Where did you get the gray rug material to cover the box and how was it applied?
*How did you know what size port to use and where to mount it?
*Does porting it enhance the lower "boom" of the speaker? is that the purpose?
*Did you use MDF wood?
*did you use silicone to seal the box?
thanks
#62
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nice job on the new pics...
i have a couple questions, you guys have inspired me to make my own stealth box. (still need room for ttops)
*Where did you get the gray rug material to cover the box and how was it applied?
*How did you know what size port to use and where to mount it?
*Does porting it enhance the lower "boom" of the speaker? is that the purpose?
*Did you use MDF wood?
*did you use silicone to seal the box?
thanks
i have a couple questions, you guys have inspired me to make my own stealth box. (still need room for ttops)
*Where did you get the gray rug material to cover the box and how was it applied?
*How did you know what size port to use and where to mount it?
*Does porting it enhance the lower "boom" of the speaker? is that the purpose?
*Did you use MDF wood?
*did you use silicone to seal the box?
thanks
Well a stealth box is too small to port so it won't be extremely loud or "boomy". And an audio shop should have carpet you can buy, or go to Jo-Ann fabrics and find some felt or something. Also, building boxes takes a lot of correct calculations, measure twice cut once, so I'd recommend finding a program to calculate measurements or call your sub company with some spec ideas.
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Yeah it's not quite as big airspace wise but I plan on buying subs that don't need a whole lotta space soon as i said. No one seems to want to buy these CVR's though! I really wanna sell em so i can get something different built for SPL.
#64
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i'm looking at Infinity 1052w
here are the specs:
*Sealed box volume (cubic feet) 0.75
*Ported box volume (cubic feet) 1.75
*Port diameter (inches) 3
*Port length (inches) 9
*Dual voice coil
*Sensitivity 91 dB @ 2.83 volts
*Frequency Response 25-400 Hz
*RMS Power range (Watts) 60-250
*Top Mount Depth (inches) 4-9/16
*Vas (liters) 39.9
*Fs (Hz) 28.8
*Qts 0.46
*Xmax (mm) 12.5
i play guitar and know basic speaker specs but i dont know how "Vas", "Fs", "Qts" and "Xmax" play into how it will sound
here are the specs:
*Sealed box volume (cubic feet) 0.75
*Ported box volume (cubic feet) 1.75
*Port diameter (inches) 3
*Port length (inches) 9
*Dual voice coil
*Sensitivity 91 dB @ 2.83 volts
*Frequency Response 25-400 Hz
*RMS Power range (Watts) 60-250
*Top Mount Depth (inches) 4-9/16
*Vas (liters) 39.9
*Fs (Hz) 28.8
*Qts 0.46
*Xmax (mm) 12.5
i play guitar and know basic speaker specs but i dont know how "Vas", "Fs", "Qts" and "Xmax" play into how it will sound
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You gonna run one or two subs? I think if your looking for a good bump get two 10's or even 12's in hatch box and if you listen to more rock you'll want a sealed box anyway, it'll sound better for that genre but not horrible with other types of music. You can always put ttops in the back seat or something.
#66
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nah i deffinately am set on only getting 1 10" speaker in a stealth box, however i changed what speaker i'm getting. i want a Sony Xplod XS-L104P5B
it works better with the amp i need..
anyway so wiring this amp bridged running 200 watts @ 4 ohms... into the xplod which runs are 4 ohms should be fine
as far as mounting the amp? i was thinking near the spare tire? i saw someone had a piece of wood they mounted it to and put it in there? i might do something to that effect
as far as wiring the amp... if i am only running this one amp for this sub, what gauge power cable do i need for it and how do i hook it up right? i'd have to run RCA cables up to the deck and then the power cable up thru the firewall to the battery? how do you find a hole in the firewall to put it thru? and how do i connect it to the battery?
it works better with the amp i need..
anyway so wiring this amp bridged running 200 watts @ 4 ohms... into the xplod which runs are 4 ohms should be fine
as far as mounting the amp? i was thinking near the spare tire? i saw someone had a piece of wood they mounted it to and put it in there? i might do something to that effect
as far as wiring the amp... if i am only running this one amp for this sub, what gauge power cable do i need for it and how do i hook it up right? i'd have to run RCA cables up to the deck and then the power cable up thru the firewall to the battery? how do you find a hole in the firewall to put it thru? and how do i connect it to the battery?
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as far as wiring the amp... if i am only running this one amp for this sub, what gauge power cable do i need for it and how do i hook it up right? i'd have to run RCA cables up to the deck and then the power cable up thru the firewall to the battery? how do you find a hole in the firewall to put it thru? and how do i connect it to the battery?
#68
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how much voltage does an alternator put out? 13-14V?
if i have a 200 watt amplifier running bridged.. it would be drawing around 15A off the alternator (200 watts/13V = 15.4 A, i work in electrical) so really i could almost get by using 14 AWG wire w/ a 15 A fuse? in reality i'd probably get 10 AWG wire w/ 30 amp fuse(nearly double what i need) cuz the stuff is cheap..
so is this how that works? you base the draw of the amplifier off how many watts it puts out to the speakers?
if i have a 200 watt amplifier running bridged.. it would be drawing around 15A off the alternator (200 watts/13V = 15.4 A, i work in electrical) so really i could almost get by using 14 AWG wire w/ a 15 A fuse? in reality i'd probably get 10 AWG wire w/ 30 amp fuse(nearly double what i need) cuz the stuff is cheap..
so is this how that works? you base the draw of the amplifier off how many watts it puts out to the speakers?
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There is absolutely no amplifier on earth that is 100% efficient. I would probably assume 70% efficiency. And even though you really aren't going to have much voltage fluctuation, that still needs to be accounted for as well. And impedance rise and resistance through cable yada yada yada. I would just go with 8 ga and about a 30A fuse. Maybe 25. You could get by just fine with less, but I think it would just be best.
#70
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There is absolutely no amplifier on earth that is 100% efficient. I would probably assume 70% efficiency. And even though you really aren't going to have much voltage fluctuation, that still needs to be accounted for as well. And impedance rise and resistance through cable yada yada yada. I would just go with 8 ga and about a 30A fuse. Maybe 25. You could get by just fine with less, but I think it would just be best.
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It's such a small amp that I wouldn't be concerned with how much voltage is being drawn, I run 1200w off stock alt and batt and i don't have a problem with too much voltage drop except at night with the lights on and the hardest hitting song i see some drop but not enough usage to be worried about, though the Big 3 is in my future. And are you still planning on installing it yourself?
#72
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yeah i plan on installing it myself. i know a lot about speaker wiring and such but wiring speakers in a car setting is a bit new to me. i think i'll figure it out
i'll make sure i run the RCA and power cable on separate sides of the car..
the part i'm most "worried" about is finding a hole in the firewall thats easy to just pop the cable through...
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KLM-K8
you guys use that kit at all?
looks almost worth buying.. the crutchfield counterpart is nearly double in price..
i'm a bit confused how a 8 AWG 90% Aluminum wire has a 50 A fuse? i was always under the impression that 8 AWG copper can handle 40 amps and thats COPPER, aluminum wire i thought you'd need to drop to like 6 because the lower conductivity
i'll make sure i run the RCA and power cable on separate sides of the car..
the part i'm most "worried" about is finding a hole in the firewall thats easy to just pop the cable through...
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KLM-K8
you guys use that kit at all?
looks almost worth buying.. the crutchfield counterpart is nearly double in price..
i'm a bit confused how a 8 AWG 90% Aluminum wire has a 50 A fuse? i was always under the impression that 8 AWG copper can handle 40 amps and thats COPPER, aluminum wire i thought you'd need to drop to like 6 because the lower conductivity
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yeah i plan on installing it myself. i know a lot about speaker wiring and such but wiring speakers in a car setting is a bit new to me. i think i'll figure it out
i'll make sure i run the RCA and power cable on separate sides of the car..
the part i'm most "worried" about is finding a hole in the firewall thats easy to just pop the cable through...
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KLM-K8
you guys use that kit at all?
looks almost worth buying.. the crutchfield counterpart is nearly double in price..
i'm a bit confused how a 8 AWG 90% Aluminum wire has a 50 A fuse? i was always under the impression that 8 AWG copper can handle 40 amps and thats COPPER, aluminum wire i thought you'd need to drop to like 6 because the lower conductivity
i'll make sure i run the RCA and power cable on separate sides of the car..
the part i'm most "worried" about is finding a hole in the firewall thats easy to just pop the cable through...
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KLM-K8
you guys use that kit at all?
looks almost worth buying.. the crutchfield counterpart is nearly double in price..
i'm a bit confused how a 8 AWG 90% Aluminum wire has a 50 A fuse? i was always under the impression that 8 AWG copper can handle 40 amps and thats COPPER, aluminum wire i thought you'd need to drop to like 6 because the lower conductivity
And audio shops will carry an amp kit as well so maybe check there too and don't be afraid to ask questions, legit shops will help you without trying to sell stuff you won't need.
By the way, crutchfield is always overpriced and if you want I can pm a few other cheaper but safe sites since I'm not sure i can post them here.