New Kit for the Birds
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I would like to point out that the posted photo actually was an LMC conversion. Note how there are bright spots above the cutoff line (circled in red) and light scatter across the entire width (circled in yellow). That's caused by the misplacement of the light source within the reflector. You can make it less annoying by aiming the lamps down but you can't get rid of it because it's a function of the shape and position of the arc of the HID capsules. Besides, aiming down really kind of eliminates the benefit of extended light range.
Actually, BMW factory HIDs are self-leveling (at least they were in my 330Ci) so they constantly adjust position to compensate for road angle. My Mustang doesn't have self-leveling but the cutoff is below the window level of other cars so it is seldom a problem. Granted, road irregularities will cause the light to bounce up sometimes but that results in only momentary bright flashes for other drivers. That's quite a bit different from having lights producing constant glare that blinds other drivers.
I've never figured out why people say things like "it's no worse than an illegal exhaust". A loud exhaust is annoying but it won't affect the safety of other drivers. HID conversion kits are illegal because they affect the safety of other drivers not because some bureaucrat decided to regulate something.
I would agree with your argument completely, if it were not for the fact that when driving, the vehicle's suspension (unless you have a Porsche Turbo) does not compensate for the light's angle, and end up blinding everyone anyways. I've had my retinas scarred from many a BMW and Lexus factory HID setups. A happy medium would to be aim the conversion HID's down to the point where everyone is not getting blinded on the flat and level.
No lighting system is perfect, and I strongly agree with the poster above who said that increased visibility is safety in itself.. I've had many a sketchy moment when something I couldn't see (due to crap OEM headlights) showed up in front of my car. I installed 35W HID lights in my 2010 Malibu as well, (non-projector) and actually had my wife drive toward me so I could adjust it for minimal glare. I filled the only source of glare (little bowtie inside the factory reflector) and all is good. It's illegal, yes, but so is modding your exhaust system. The reasons behind the laws arent always cut and dry, and bright halogens glare pretty bad, too. 
has anybody just put the lights in without the hid kit?? How are they. Do you need the harness from lmc to do that?? I am tired of my crappy lights when I am doing wot tuning at night.
This thread also shows how I addressed the connector and made a direct connection. (without the adapter)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ht-option.html
These pictures are exactly why I decided to spend the money on the BLS kit. It's pricey, but check out the pictures in his threads, it has a perfect cut off and excellent lighting.
I think you talked me into them. Going to be ordering soon. 
Ok so my 02 Hawk has a LEDGauges.com 6000K HID kit in it now, and yes I know they went outta business, the HID kit is spliced into the headlight motor wiring to supply them power so that they can work. So when I turn my headlights on the headlight motor wiring feeds power to them to flip them up and also feeds power to the balasts to light up the HID bulbs.
I need to replace my passenger side headlight motor, so my question is can I get these LMC Truck housings, get a DDM Tuning 6000K HID Kit, and have it all work in sync, (flip the switch on, lights flip up, lights stay up, lights come on, lights stay on, when I flip switch off, lights turn off, lights stay off, lights flip down, lights stay down) WITHOUT having to splice the DDM kit into the new headlight motor to supply power to everything to work??? Any help on this issue would be appreciated.
And to help anyone understand how the ledgauges kit is setup to work and to see what I'm talking about click on this link http://www.ledgauges.com/firebirdguide.html and read the installation guide, maybe once you see it, it'll make more sense.
Thanks guys,
THE F-BODY KING
U.S. ARMY
I need to replace my passenger side headlight motor, so my question is can I get these LMC Truck housings, get a DDM Tuning 6000K HID Kit, and have it all work in sync, (flip the switch on, lights flip up, lights stay up, lights come on, lights stay on, when I flip switch off, lights turn off, lights stay off, lights flip down, lights stay down) WITHOUT having to splice the DDM kit into the new headlight motor to supply power to everything to work??? Any help on this issue would be appreciated.
And to help anyone understand how the ledgauges kit is setup to work and to see what I'm talking about click on this link http://www.ledgauges.com/firebirdguide.html and read the installation guide, maybe once you see it, it'll make more sense.
Thanks guys,
THE F-BODY KING
U.S. ARMY
HID's in reflector housings are dangerous.
If you guys upgrade housings look at running an HIR bulb. They are the brightest halogen you can go with. Also, upgrading your factory wiring harness as this alone will improve even your OE lighting output, let alone an upgraded system.
This is what I did for my prior F-body, 93 Z28:
Thread here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...installed.html
If you guys upgrade housings look at running an HIR bulb. They are the brightest halogen you can go with. Also, upgrading your factory wiring harness as this alone will improve even your OE lighting output, let alone an upgraded system.
This is what I did for my prior F-body, 93 Z28:
Thread here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...installed.html
Just so you guys know I bought these housings and put some of the high performance halogens from nokya and it burnt up the connectors. I bought the stock wattage lights too. The pig tails that come in this kit are really cheap and melt very easily. I took some nice connectors that my friend has laying around from all his HID retrofits he does and am using those instead. I also put the 9006's that came with the housings in the first place. My lights are yellow now instead of white, but hopefully they don't melt the connectors like the nokyas did. Just a heads up for you guys.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, Kansas
I went with the conversion kit from xenonheadlights.net
Comes with everything you need, any K headlight you want, you'll just need to find housings for them
So does anybody know where to find some that are preferrably black?
Comes with everything you need, any K headlight you want, you'll just need to find housings for them
So does anybody know where to find some that are preferrably black?
Just so you guys know I bought these housings and put some of the high performance halogens from nokya and it burnt up the connectors. I bought the stock wattage lights too. The pig tails that come in this kit are really cheap and melt very easily. I took some nice connectors that my friend has laying around from all his HID retrofits he does and am using those instead. I also put the 9006's that came with the housings in the first place. My lights are yellow now instead of white, but hopefully they don't melt the connectors like the nokyas did. Just a heads up for you guys.
This thread shows how to crimp the proper connectors and seals on the factory wires so we can skip the adapter that comes with the kits. https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ht-option.html