it really isn't that difficult. as long as you are paying attention to what you do, and you follow everything the way i tell you to, you'll be fine.

 

I just posted a detailed install experience similar to Tuffluck's in the other thread "ATTN People who want to replace.. Monsoon speakers" (post #97) and it was very similar to Tufflucks experience... I did it over the Christmas holidays on my '99 Z before he posted his and before I read it.... So if you want more encouragement on how to get great sound on a low budget, check out my post:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=97

 

Hey guys,

I did the update thing and Crutchfield made it a snap. When you order those alpines, they will ship you the wiring converters for free. THe connectors will make all the right connections and ensure that there is no wiring problems.

Havoc

WU8 Y2Y

 

If you have a 4 ohm coaxial speaker such as the Alpine's being used here, is the tweeter wired in parallel with the mid or in series? If parallel, you'd need each of them to be around 8 ohms. If the tweeter is wired in series with the mid, then each of them would have to be 2 ohms to provide the rated 4 ohm load. One would work great with the 2 ohm Monsoon system, the other wouldn't work so well.

I'm guessing that each individual speaker (tweeter and mid) is 8 ohms, with the pair wired in parallel based on the description of the original post.

 

No they arent... They are amped seperately, with the mid being powered by the amp (rated at 2 ohms) and the tweeter powered by the head unit (rated at 4 ohms). Like we said while it doesnt match the load exactly, its good enough for what we are looking to accomplish here, and does sound better.

 

I understand that the factory speakers are wired that way, but I was talking about the impedance of the Alpines or other aftermarket coaxials after separating the tweeter from the mid.

I'm not debating the fact that it sounds better. I plan on adding a pair of Alpines to my car one of these days.

 

Wow I thought that it pertained to this thread since seems to be about upgrading speakers, and speakers don't run without any type of amp.

I was interested in knowing that as well. However if I was going to upgrade the amp I would also upgrade the head unit. I do hear that those of us with the radio/CD controls on the wheel are limited to certain head units with a special harness in order to still be able to use the steering wheel controls. I heard somewhere that Alpine has a unit for this? Nice post on the speaker upgrades. Thanks for that very informative post!

Maybe this post has nothing to do with just upgrading speakers either, but is all ties together. However I would definitely upgrade them if I did nothing else.

Thanks

 

so you dont suggest putting any new speakers in the hatch or in the backseat area speakers.

i plan on getting the alpine SPS-170A, and maybe a new head unit, and subs with an amp in the hatch.

 

The back hatch you can replace but they are just rear fill.. they arent very important..

As for the sail panels, we went through the sail panels having subs in them and using JL 6W0s, Rockford RFP4416, or Kicker RMB 6's to replace them... They are subs you cant just put in anything.

 

no change in impedance whatsoever. dont forget the tweeter plays different frequencies than the mid, so you only get lower impedance than what the piece is rated at when the same frequencies are being played by both.

 

are the vert door speakers the same?

 

how do you get access to the door speakers and the sail panel speakers. Thank you.

 

yep!!

 

Door speakers require the door panel to be emoved... The sail panel grilles come off if you pop em from around the edges with a flathead screwdriver or a hook tool.

 

i was just messing with my door panel and took out all the screws i found on it (2 screws). i pulled a little but didnt want to put alot of force on it. I ended up putting the screws back in place. So i guess i still dont know how to get the door panel off.

Thanks for the info on the sail panel grilles.

 

You have too look around, theres 4 large screws holding the panel in, take off the trim around the handle you will see 1, theres one underneath the door pul, one in the map pocket, and I believe theres another I cant remember where it is. After pulling those screws, just slide the panel upwards it will come right off.

 

OK, I will be doing this tonight or tomorrow night. These are good instructions and hopefully everything will go fine. I'll take some pictures.

 

tuffluck and Rogue, you guys rock. I did this this past weekend and it sounds great, even with the stock subs and ancient rear fills.

I HIGHLY recommend buying the speakers from Circuit City and not online or Best Buy or anyplace else. Circuit City's 30 day guarantee is fandamntastic. The wires on the capacitor are flimsily soldered on and can come off easily... one of mine did, even though I was careful. On top of that, the tweeter never even worked. Circuit City swapped the speaker out for me, even though I brought it in all hacked up and with my connectors all over it.

I think Rogue covered most of them. There is one behind the actual door handle, 2 big ones in the indentation under it, one big one inside the door pull (tucked back up in a round hole), and another one on the outside of the door pull facing the doorjam (when the door is closed.) You will also need to remove the little black cover at the top front of the door right behind the side mirror, it's just one screw.

 

thanks dude

and ya, i agree it's best to pick them up at circuit city than online for reasons just like the one you mentioned.

also, the RF 6.5" subs, from what i understand, are no longer in production. some places still have some left over. find a store online where you can buy them (between $100-$150 shipped) and get them now, or else you'll probably never get another chance after a month or so from now. i may be wrong about the RF's, but almost every site i've checked that has them says, "this product is no longer available."

 

I think you can run the Alpine 6 1\2 with only the wires running from the amp. There's only one hook up on the back of the speaker along with a compacitor to block out bass from the tweeter.
I used the method mentioned earlier, the tweeters seem to be underpowered by being ran directly from the head unit, but the Alpines put out great sound.