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Old May 30, 2010 | 01:18 AM
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Default weight vs system

I'm looking at putting a nice system in my car. But I still want it to be quick so a 400 lbs system is not an option. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to audio. Could someone fill me in?
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:32 AM
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Just get a stealth box, it shouldn't add too much weight.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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stealthbox plus a kee audio package.. your golden!!
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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What about an amp? Is it needed for a low key sub? I'm pretty sure a decent amp will weight a good 15-20 lbs, doesn't it?
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:47 PM
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Yeah, but a smaller amp, plus the stealth box isn't going to be anywhere near 100, let alone 400 lbs. It all depends on what sub, amp, wiring, sound deadening, etc. you would run that would dictate the weight. Just a rough guess, if you go with a smaller amp, and minimal dynamat ( or the like), and the stealthbox, I'd say at most you'd be at 100, probably around 50-75 lbs.

The decision it comes down to is this, would you add up to 100 lbs to your car for a stereo system? Or would you rather have the weight advantage? Personally, I've added probably close to 200 lbs to my car with the system, and you can feel the difference. It is coming out though cause the "noise pollution" tickets I've got over the years have finally taken it's tole on me haha
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Old May 31, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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I run the subthump box with 2 Kicker L7 12's and amp, My system weights a total of maybe 80lbs at the most...
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Old May 31, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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If you are looking for a very light weighing Amp i recommend looking at the JL Audio HD series amps. For just a general search they have a shipping weight of 12 pounds. There are 3 different "sizes" of the Amp. They are 600/4, 750/1 (for sub only) and 900/5 (for highs and sub.) All 3 of the have the same Dimensions at 10.74 in. x 8.29 in. x 1.93 in. If you are concerned about weight I would really look at the 900/5 to push your entire system. That is the amp i chose and its awesome. The clarity at any volume is un-matched in my opinion in the HD series. But be prepared to spend around $1000 for the 900/5. You can buy the 600/4 for around $600. That is just my two cents.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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IMO you can do 4 speaker, an amp, sub, stealhbox, and wiring around 100 lbs maybe less
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Old May 31, 2010 | 11:33 PM
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What do you recommend as far as sound deadening goes? I'm looking to eliminate a lot of road noise. I'm going to have to redo the entire interior so I might as well do it right. Dampeners, barriers, deadeners, isulation.. what does each do and what should I go with?
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 07:34 AM
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if ur worried about weight jst get a small amp and a subwoofer for a decent sound it doesnt have to b 2 big *** woofers! i use one 1000 woofer and a small amp thats it.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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I just want to play music with a decent system. It doesn't need to be loud.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by bp944
What about an amp? Is it needed for a low key sub? I'm pretty sure a decent amp will weight a good 15-20 lbs, doesn't it?
I ran 2 infinity amps. Pretty decent size, one for subs and one for highs. They weighed in at about 12 pounds apiece.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 07:34 PM
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a stealth box with a decent amp is not gonna be that heavy. it should not be more then 60lbs. My set up is around 50lbs (kee audio package stealth box and amp), and no sound deadening.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 01:35 AM
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Was thinking about doing this a little while ago, after thinking about it decided not to. More weight, less money.. I find alot that i turn the radeo off to listen to the engine and exhaust instead. I did but in a new HU though, i would recommend that, then see if you still want everything else too
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 10:16 PM
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If you want it to sound good and don't want buyer's remorse, I suggest going to a store in your area with real audio professionals, NO that doesn't include Best Buy. Best Buy is good for getting wiring and installation done, but I don't recommend the products they sell. Go to a real audio store and spend a few hours listening to different speaker/amp and sub/amp combinations until you find what you like. This is how I did my system and I'm way happier I had done it that way as opposed to listening to so and so's advice of "buy this amp, it's pretty good," it may turn out to be a bunk amp or not the sound you like. Typically with real professionals they will work with you. If you tell them things like weight are an issue for you, they'll know what to do. Just remember though, with car audio, you have to pay to play. Most people have caviar taste and want to spend McDonald's money. That can't happen, it's an oxymoron. Do your system right! Take my advice, you will not be disappointed.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 11:26 PM
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I'm not going to go to professionals, they're aren't any in the area since I live in the middle of nowhere. I'm just looking for a decent sounding system to go in a 2 seater porsche and not something to shake the exhaust off my car. So big subs aren't a necessity but I would like a quality system.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 12:00 AM
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If the bass isn't what your looking for, I'd suggest picking up a quality set of components w/ a nice 600/4 to power them. Personally I have a set of MB quarts running of an arc 600. Sure I have some friends with something like kicker components off a kicker amp and yeah, overall, it's a bit louder than mine, but the sound quality can't even be compared.

I know there are a number of different setups you could run that'd meet your goal, I'd suggest you hit up Kee and see what they'd set you up with. They have some nice packages and are more than helpful with any questions.

One last question that may help narrow the topic down some. How much are you looking to spend?
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 05:16 AM
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you can honestly get a good sounding system (not including the sound deadening) without adding more than about 50 - 75 pounds at most.

people sometimes get a little over-zealous when they say that adding a sound system adds too much weight to the car......what a lot of them don't take into account is that when you replace the factory stuff, you're not adding the weight of the new stuff to the previous overall weight of the car. those stock components are going to be removed from the car, which helps to offset the weight of the new stuff, and in some components, can even save you some weight over the old stuff. yeah, there will always be a few that have the mindset of "adding ANY weight is adding too much weight", but those people are usually pretty easy to spot (and luckily, usually pretty easy to ignore, also).

for instance, when you remove that 1.5DIN head unit, you're most likely going to replace it with a standard 1DIN unit, which will be lighter than the stock unit in most cases.

when you replace the front speakers, depending on the specific speakers, you may only add 2 - 5 pounds overall, and you may end up actually saving some weight. same goes for the sail panel speakers.

then, most people will recommend that you don't even use the rear hatch speakers.....if you're not using them, you may as well take them out to save some weight there, right?

if you've got the monsoon system, you will likely want to remove the stock amp, which will help offset the weight of the new amp(s). if your car came with a CD changer like mine did, in all likelihood, you'll just remove it....in all honesty, i think they're more trouble than they're worth. a good head unit that can play MP3's is much more convenient, and has access to many, many more songs per disc. that equals more saved weight.

as far as the actual sound system components themselves go, the only thing you're really adding to the system without removing its stock counterpart (because there is no stock counterpart to remove) will be the subwoofer(s) and its enclosure (plus any amps in addition to the first amp, in case you go with a multi-amp setup instead of a single, multi-channel amp).

you can get a decent single 10" subwoofer that weighs in the neighborhood of 10 pounds or less (and by "decent", i mean a sub that sounds nice & clean, not a sub that is intended to shake the fillings out of your teeth with the volume **** only turned to 1/10), and a single stealth subthump enclosure can't weight more than around 35 - 45 pounds also.

then you still do have to take into account any new wiring, such as amp power/ground wires, remote turn-on wires, RCA patch cables, and speaker wire....but all that stuff is pretty light, i'd be surprised if all of it together added more than 5 - 8 pounds.

now, when you start talking about sound deadening, that's where you really start adding weight to the car....depending on the type & thickness, and the number of layers, you can add anywhere between only 40 - 60 lbs, up to around 100 - 150 in just sound deadening alone. do your research here and take a page from other people's playbooks. and it's completely optional to even use sound deadening at all.....some people don't feel that the extra weight is worth getting rid of excess road noise/exhaust drone, as well as effectively increasing the efficiency of the sound system itself, and getting rid of a lot of the squeaks/rattles that come from the cheap interior body panels that we have in these cars......others like myself feel that it is definitely worth the extra weight.

and with sound deadening, you can add a little at a time, you don't have to add everything at once.....so you can put a single, thin layer down first to see how much it helps...if you like it, there's no need to add more deadening (and extra weight). if you feel that you'd like it quieter, just add some more until you get it where you want it....that way, you end up only exactly enough to deaden the exact amount of sound you want, and nothing more, which cuts down on "excess" extra weight, if that makes any sense.

and don't forget, you always have the option of connecting your amp(s) & subwoofer/sub enclosures with quick-disconnect connections....that will let you pull out the heaviest parts of your system when you wanna go compete and need to lose the extra weight, then put it back in when you're just cruising around. just make sure never to leave the power/ground wires that run to your amp(s) bare & exposed when it's all disconnected so you don't end up shorting **** out and possibly screwing stuff up/blowing fuses, etc.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bp944
I'm not going to go to professionals, they're aren't any in the area since I live in the middle of nowhere. I'm just looking for a decent sounding system to go in a 2 seater porsche and not something to shake the exhaust off my car. So big subs aren't a necessity but I would like a quality system.
You have a Porsche with an LS1 engine?

You can get some pretty good general advice here but it's difficult for us to recommend specific products when we don't even know what will fit in that car.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 04:00 AM
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stealth box you dont need alot of bass in these cars to make then hit hard
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