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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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has anyone dynomat their floor,firewall and trunk area of their car? if so how well did it cut out the outside noise and exhaust? im thinking about using dynomat on mine then dynoliner on top of that
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by shadowdaze
has anyone dynomat their floor,firewall and trunk area of their car? if so how well did it cut out the outside noise and exhaust? im thinking about using dynomat on mine then dynoliner on top of that
I used a ticker and better product called secondskin and it came out great. Didn't end up using a liner on top as my new carpet had pretty thick jute and it was a PITA getting everything back in right due to the tickness of the carpet. 100% better, but remember with these old cars you are always gonna hear road noise, rattles and exhause noise (depending upon how loud your exhaust is) no matter how much liner or sound deadener you put down. Doing the doors makes the most difference in my opinion.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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that is awesome i was just looking at the webiste for that stuff and im going to do all three of them. the vibration damper, noise barrier and rattles and squeaks when i get the money. im going to use the the Pro kind on all them. just hoping it will all fit.
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 12:54 PM
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I just did the dynamat on my 98 TA, did wonders I only did the doors firewall and floor boards before I ran out. I'll get more and finish the trunk.
Honestly impressed with how much it helped.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 04:25 PM
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i'm in the process of installing sound deadening in my car, although i'm using the eDead45 product from Elemental Designs at $1/sq.ft.....so far i've covered a single layer from right around where the gas/brake pedals are, all the way back to the rear edge of the top of the "hump" over the rear wheels, along with the sail panels in the back of the car.

man, it's made a HUGE difference, and i'm not even done yet.....i'm just doing it a little at a time as i have time/energy/light to do it.

i still need to do the doors, the rear hatch area, the rear hatch lid, and all the plastic trim panels, but i'm at the point now where i don't have to take out the entire interior to work on it anymore, unlike the floorbard area....so i'll do what i can, when i can.

however, i will say this: if i have to do sound deadening again, i will likely just pay someone else to do it for me.....it's kinda a pain in the *** to do.....but regardless, it's WELL worth it.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 02Z28LS1
i'm in the process of installing sound deadening in my car, although i'm using the eDead45 product from Elemental Designs at $1/sq.ft.....so far i've covered a single layer from right around where the gas/brake pedals are, all the way back to the rear edge of the top of the "hump" over the rear wheels, along with the sail panels in the back of the car.

man, it's made a HUGE difference, and i'm not even done yet.....i'm just doing it a little at a time as i have time/energy/light to do it.

i still need to do the doors, the rear hatch area, the rear hatch lid, and all the plastic trim panels, but i'm at the point now where i don't have to take out the entire interior to work on it anymore, unlike the floorbard area....so i'll do what i can, when i can.

however, i will say this: if i have to do sound deadening again, i will likely just pay someone else to do it for me.....it's kinda a pain in the *** to do.....but regardless, it's WELL worth it.
How well does the element designs stuff stick down? do you simply peal back the foil and stick it down or do you need an additional adhesive? that stuff is by far the cheapest sound deadner i have found so i think i might give it a shot. just don't want to have to redo it in the future.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by gpr
How well does the element designs stuff stick down? do you simply peal back the foil and stick it down or do you need an additional adhesive? that stuff is by far the cheapest sound deadner i have found so i think i might give it a shot. just don't want to have to redo it in the future.
no additional adhesive is needed, it's peel-and-stick. it sticks pretty well, but has enough forgiveness that if you actually do need to pull it back up right away to correct a placement mistake, you can. but you should definitely get one of the wooden rollers that they sell to press it down with, it makes life a lot easier to install it and make sure it's stuck down really well.

my advice is to use small-ish pieces, instead of using larger pieces, it's much easier to handle that way, especially in the back seat area.....and it makes it much easier to press it down into the little cracks/crevices.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 02Z28LS1
i'm in the process of installing sound deadening in my car, although i'm using the eDead45 product from Elemental Designs at $1/sq.ft.....so far i've covered a single layer from right around where the gas/brake pedals are, all the way back to the rear edge of the top of the "hump" over the rear wheels, along with the sail panels in the back of the car.

man, it's made a HUGE difference, and i'm not even done yet.....i'm just doing it a little at a time as i have time/energy/light to do it.

i still need to do the doors, the rear hatch area, the rear hatch lid, and all the plastic trim panels, but i'm at the point now where i don't have to take out the entire interior to work on it anymore, unlike the floorbard area....so i'll do what i can, when i can.

however, i will say this: if i have to do sound deadening again, i will likely just pay someone else to do it for me.....it's kinda a pain in the *** to do.....but regardless, it's WELL worth it.
How many Sq/ft did it take you to do that much of your car? I'm going to order this stuff but I have a hard time estimating the amount.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 11:59 PM
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Not a fbody but I did a Mustang several years ago w the cheapest dynamat. I did a single layer from as far up thr firewall I could reach all the way back to the hatch latch. I put a double layer in the doors and purchased a 10x10ft roll of carpet insulation from home depot and put that down under the factory pad and carpet. When putting all the plastic interior pieces in, anywhere two pieces touched or overlapped, I put down 2-3 layers of electrical tape.

When I shut the doors, it sounded like a vault door instead of a tin can full of rocks. Road and wind noise was almost completely eliminated and I could easily whisper to people despite a huge cam and dumped exhaust. Subframe connectors helped as well but I could haul *** down the worst back country dirt roads and not a single squeak or rattle

I will start the same on my TA in the coming weeks
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BADFNZ
How many Sq/ft did it take you to do that much of your car? I'm going to order this stuff but I have a hard time estimating the amount.
i dunno exactly how many sq.ft. i've used already, but i ordered 200 sq.ft.

it came in 2 boxes, 4 full rolls in one box, and in the other box, 2 full rolls and a partial roll.

so far, i've used up the partial roll and 1 full roll.

just as an FYI, the thicker eDead80 stuff is on sale right now....it's normally $2/sq.ft., but it's on sale right now for $1.50/sq.ft.

i would recommend the thicker stuff if you want more sound blocking capabilities, especially at that price.....
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 02Z28LS1
i dunno exactly how many sq.ft. i've used already, but i ordered 200 sq.ft.

it came in 2 boxes, 4 full rolls in one box, and in the other box, 2 full rolls and a partial roll.

so far, i've used up the partial roll and 1 full roll.

just as an FYI, the thicker eDead80 stuff is on sale right now....it's normally $2/sq.ft., but it's on sale right now for $1.50/sq.ft.

i would recommend the thicker stuff if you want more sound blocking capabilities, especially at that price.....
Ok, so after doing that SAT math problem in my cranium, it's probably safe to assume you've used ~50 sq/ft.
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 11:48 AM
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Any of you guys suggest an amount I should start out with?
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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i helped a friend from work put down 4 rolls of edead45 in his ta and did the doors floorboard and truck area and could have used more. he had true duals and it helped out a little but his still dumps under the car and the trunk area could have used some better layering.

i intend to use the edead80 when i do mine here soon but i think im going to be changing exhausts before i do anything
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbyrd
i helped a friend from work put down 4 rolls of edead45 in his ta and did the doors floorboard and truck area and could have used more. he had true duals and it helped out a little but his still dumps under the car and the trunk area could have used some better layering.

i intend to use the edead80 when i do mine here soon but i think im going to be changing exhausts before i do anything
Yup, I am gonna get the edead80 stuff. But it comes in a sq foot right?
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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When I had just a LoudMouth catback, my wife complained about the noise (shhh, she was right!), so I used Brown Bread and did a single layer using small pieces from firewall to trunk. Then with what I had left over, I put on a second layer of larger pieces where the seats are. It did make some difference.

But oddly enough, what really cut the noise down was putting on long tube headers and swapping to a loudmouth 2 catback.....

Like someone said, get the roller. I didn't and my hands hurt like hell for 2 days after.
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