96silverram

iTrader: (12)

Just wondering if anybody has had problems with their push button trunk release just stop working. If so, what did you do to diagnose the problem. I'm not sure what has happened, but I'm wondering if the BCM module has a problem? Can anyone make some suggestions on what tests I can perform to narrow the problem down.

Thanks for any help....


PS: Car is a 96 WS6 T/A (6 speed)

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

It's common for the release button/switch to go bad in the dash. You can confirm with a continuity tester.

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

The switch in the knee panel is brand new. Do you think I should test it still ?

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

I had a blown fuse.
The prelude to it is that i tugged on a wire in the hatch area a lil too hard where the factory alarm sensor is. It caused the fuse to blow and my gauges didn't work along with trunk release.

I 'd start with a fuse tester before moving to the switch.

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

I've already tested all the fuses behind the little pull panel on the drivers side door area. All fuses tested good.

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

What was the reason you replaced the switch in the first place? The same issue could 've emerged.

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

I put a new switch on because the silk screen had started to show some signs of wear. It worked fine before the change and worked for at least 6 months or so after the change and then one day it stopped working ??

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Yea, test it. Its really not a heavy duty switch. I assume you checked to make sure the wires were plugged in?

Was the switch new from a factory? Or "new" from a junk yard?

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

Yes, the wires are and were plugged in

Factory GM new in package switch.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Well, testing at the switch will tell you a lot. If you jump the contacts in the connector and the trunk pops, then that will confirm a bad switch.

Another thing to check are the trunk lock-out mechanisms. For instance, if your car is manual and your parking brake switch is bad and doesn't sense when the brake is on, then the trunk won't pop. Likewise, I think the same thing happens for a automatic car that isn't in park.

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

I'm going to test the connector up front and see if my trunk will pop. I actually never have had to pull up my E-brake to pop my trunk. I wonder if maybe the e-brake switch has gone bad? I also know the actual trunk release mechanism can fail occasionally. I do have a NEW GM unit for the rear trunk release, but did not want to install it until I had tested all options up front

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Is your car manual or automatic. The "rules" for popping the latch are a little more complex. For example, if the car is off, you don't need to set the e-brake to pop the hatch....

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

Car is a 6 speed.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you look in the owners manual under "hatch" it will give you the rules. I just checked mine and it says that your e-brake needs to be set in order to pop the hatch while the ignition is on.

It also says that when the ignition is off, your retained accessory power has to be active and the alarm system needs to be disarmed. I don't think that's true on my car. I can pop the trunk at any time with the car off. The manual may be a typo or maybe I'm just special???

Regardless, I know that the parking brake thing with the car on is definitely supposed to happen.

chaman

iTrader: (5)

Why not popping the old switch back and see if it works?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

It's not the RAP that has to be active... you just have to be sure the BCM hasn't "gone to sleep" for the inside hatch release to work. The BCM goes to sleep about 30 minutes after the ignition has been shut off. It's a battery saver feature. Just about any action involving the alarm, keyless entry, or door opening will wake it up again.

Try leaving the window down (so you don't have to open a door) and reach in to pop the hatch an hour after you shut off the car - it should not release the hatch. However, as soon as you open a door to reach the hatch switch, the BCM wakes up and the release switch will work.

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

WSsix99: I really have never tried to open the hatch when I had the ignition on, but it is good to know that you have to set the E-brake when the car is on.

Chaman: Old switch was bad and when I put the new one in it started working again. I think I threw the old switch out?

Whitebird00: The release switch always worked like you stated until just recently (about 6 months or so) and it has not worked since. I suspect it is either the switch itself, release of hatch mechanism at back, or maybe the BCM module is just acting up at this point?

smb72

Does it pop when you have the door open?

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

No popping sound at all, but that could be the fact that the switch is malfunctioning.

mischief

iTrader: (1)

Hello, I'm having a similar problem, mine is also related to the window operation it seems as well.

I've noticed at times my trunk button won't release unless i open the door, it used too, when the window was down i'd reach in, but I gotta open the door a lot, not always..

And my window will just cut power completely when turning up/down at times, and when I open the door it'll resume functionality most of the time, when it cuts power, the switch won't bog down the accessories at all, passenger side will, not unless it's working, and the switch is new so it's not that, this seems related to my hatch problem?

Any ideas? help is appreciated.