Installing sound deadening (edead 80)
#22
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I just bought 5 rolls of the asphalt roof sealer for 17 a roll. Gonna do the DD tomorrow and see how it turns out. As economy 4 cyl gas savers dont hardly come with any deadening, Im hoping for astounding results. The rolls are 6 inch by 24 foot so that makes 12 square feet per roll and 60 foot total for around $90. We will see how far I can stretch it.
#23
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I'm doing peel and seal in mine, i also bought some of the dense 3/8" carped padding to add under the rear seats and rear floorboard. also doing the expand foam in the quarters/sails... this thing should be dead quiet.. hopefully
#24
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^sounds like a awesome plan. keep us posted on how it works out!
"Butyl Mass Layer The new eDead version 2 mat products use integrated butyl for higher temperature resistance over the old rubberized asphalt products. Improved reliability, durability, and performance at the same great price. " straight from the website.
"Butyl Mass Layer The new eDead version 2 mat products use integrated butyl for higher temperature resistance over the old rubberized asphalt products. Improved reliability, durability, and performance at the same great price. " straight from the website.
#25
Teching In
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After checking this thread out, I started looking around and I started this project for my Wife's Camaro. I used the Rattle Trap by Fat Mat the project is going nicely. I bought 200 sq ft with instalation tools for about $300.00, and I will probably end up using about 150 ft of material. I will post more pictures as the project progresses.
I just atarted configuring new sound system, now that everything is stripped out of the car.
I just atarted configuring new sound system, now that everything is stripped out of the car.
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#27
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I just did my car with damplifier pro. Big difference.
I then added a classic industries carpet - Which contains a thick rubber backing itseld and factory like sound deadening in key noise areas.
I then added a classic industries carpet - Which contains a thick rubber backing itseld and factory like sound deadening in key noise areas.
#31
Teching In
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Absolutely! The number one reason for the sound deadening for me was road noise, but it was closely followed by an increas in audio enjoyability, if that is even a word. I am planning on (deleting the monsoon setup completely), adding all new speakers, two amps a 10" sub and in dash navigation. This should remove most of the rattles and vibrations before they start.
This cost me my time and about $300, for the deadening material (200 sq ft, and I will end up using about 150)
Thanks All, it has taken a lot of time so far, I am about 80% complete and I have invested about 35 hours into the project. hahaha, maybe I am too **** retentive, but it should be nice! I am hoping to start on the doors tomorrow, and will post more pics when completed.
This cost me my time and about $300, for the deadening material (200 sq ft, and I will end up using about 150)
Thanks All, it has taken a lot of time so far, I am about 80% complete and I have invested about 35 hours into the project. hahaha, maybe I am too **** retentive, but it should be nice! I am hoping to start on the doors tomorrow, and will post more pics when completed.
#32
On The Tree
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Absolutely! The number one reason for the sound deadening for me was road noise, but it was closely followed by an increas in audio enjoyability, if that is even a word. I am planning on (deleting the monsoon setup completely), adding all new speakers, two amps a 10" sub and in dash navigation. This should remove most of the rattles and vibrations before they start.
This cost me my time and about $300, for the deadening material (200 sq ft, and I will end up using about 150)
Thanks All, it has taken a lot of time so far, I am about 80% complete and I have invested about 35 hours into the project. hahaha, maybe I am too **** retentive, but it should be nice! I am hoping to start on the doors tomorrow, and will post more pics when completed.
This cost me my time and about $300, for the deadening material (200 sq ft, and I will end up using about 150)
Thanks All, it has taken a lot of time so far, I am about 80% complete and I have invested about 35 hours into the project. hahaha, maybe I am too **** retentive, but it should be nice! I am hoping to start on the doors tomorrow, and will post more pics when completed.
#33
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Perhaps I can help, not to hijack:
1.) Taking out everything (besides dash) is easy as pie. Just unbolt and pull it out.
2.) Removing the carpet, once everything else is out, is easy. I suggest vacuuming the carpet thoroughly before removing - because if not, you're going to have to vacuum it off the metal floor boards where it was can get stuck in a lot of different places - very minor - but would annoy me.
Once the seats and interior plastics are out, just pull the carpet out. I started from the rear of the car.
***follow the http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...er_install.htm *** for removing your center console. Otherwise it can be a problem. Once you straighten the e-brake to 90 degree angle it comes off super easy.
3.) Re-applying the carpet (if using your old carpet) is easy. It will slip back in with the help of a friend or two. It can be done by yourself - but it's easier with a friend. If putting in a new carpet - it can be tricky. My classic industries carpet was a struggle. It looks great - and is a quality piece - but required some cutting. Just gotta know what your are doing prior to cutting too much!
The sound deadner material was actually enjoyable to install. Not too difficult. Go at your own pace. A great time to fix up any stereo plans you may have.
#34
On The Tree
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Perhaps I can help, not to hijack:
1.) Taking out everything (besides dash) is easy as pie. Just unbolt and pull it out.
2.) Removing the carpet, once everything else is out, is easy. I suggest vacuuming the carpet thoroughly before removing - because if not, you're going to have to vacuum it off the metal floor boards where it was can get stuck in a lot of different places - very minor - but would annoy me.
Once the seats and interior plastics are out, just pull the carpet out. I started from the rear of the car.
***follow the http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...er_install.htm *** for removing your center console. Otherwise it can be a problem. Once you straighten the e-brake to 90 degree angle it comes off super easy.
3.) Re-applying the carpet (if using your old carpet) is easy. It will slip back in with the help of a friend or two. It can be done by yourself - but it's easier with a friend. If putting in a new carpet - it can be tricky. My classic industries carpet was a struggle. It looks great - and is a quality piece - but required some cutting. Just gotta know what your are doing prior to cutting too much!
The sound deadner material was actually enjoyable to install. Not too difficult. Go at your own pace. A great time to fix up any stereo plans you may have.
1.) Taking out everything (besides dash) is easy as pie. Just unbolt and pull it out.
2.) Removing the carpet, once everything else is out, is easy. I suggest vacuuming the carpet thoroughly before removing - because if not, you're going to have to vacuum it off the metal floor boards where it was can get stuck in a lot of different places - very minor - but would annoy me.
Once the seats and interior plastics are out, just pull the carpet out. I started from the rear of the car.
***follow the http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...er_install.htm *** for removing your center console. Otherwise it can be a problem. Once you straighten the e-brake to 90 degree angle it comes off super easy.
3.) Re-applying the carpet (if using your old carpet) is easy. It will slip back in with the help of a friend or two. It can be done by yourself - but it's easier with a friend. If putting in a new carpet - it can be tricky. My classic industries carpet was a struggle. It looks great - and is a quality piece - but required some cutting. Just gotta know what your are doing prior to cutting too much!
The sound deadner material was actually enjoyable to install. Not too difficult. Go at your own pace. A great time to fix up any stereo plans you may have.
#35
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Donno why I didn't think of this before... It just hit me.
Pella SmartFlash! You can pick it up at Lowe's.
It's Aluminum backed butyl. 0.013" thick.
150'x3" rolls and they're fairly cheap. Enough to do the car for around 30 bucks.
Perhaps it's a bit thin? Let me know what you think.
Pella SmartFlash! You can pick it up at Lowe's.
It's Aluminum backed butyl. 0.013" thick.
150'x3" rolls and they're fairly cheap. Enough to do the car for around 30 bucks.
Perhaps it's a bit thin? Let me know what you think.
#38
Teching In
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- The more parts you remove, the easier it will get.
- Measure twice, cut once.
- I chose to cut larger pieces and apply first, following up withe the smaller, more difficult shaped pieces.
- Other than that, the straight edge came in handy with a razor knife.
Good Luck with your install and please post up some pics, so we can compare and contrast, might give others different ides on how to get theirs installed!
#39
Teching In
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[QUOTE=Ghostintheshell;15376965]Perhaps I can help, not to hijack:
HAHAHA, no problem, as I think that I kind of hijacked this thread from the original thread abot E-dead 80... oops, I just wanted others to see how easy it can be.
HAHAHA, no problem, as I think that I kind of hijacked this thread from the original thread abot E-dead 80... oops, I just wanted others to see how easy it can be.