Installing sound deadening (edead 80)
#1
Installing sound deadening (edead 80)
This is one mod i have been wanting to do since day one. I hate the excessive road noise. After a month and a half of waiting for this stuff (back ordered), my edead 80 finally arrived at my house. 120 sq ft worth. I believe its around 65lbs.
Got busy and pretty much gutted everything i could. Got some simple green and cleaned everything up. Going to start the install tomorrow.
Got busy and pretty much gutted everything i could. Got some simple green and cleaned everything up. Going to start the install tomorrow.
#2
I am about to do the same thing, so i am subscribing to this thread. Let me know how it goes and any advice. Some pics of the progress would help a lot too.
Do you plan on installing on the door skins and panels?
I thought i read or was told somewhere to wipe the surface down with acetone before installing???
Do you plan on installing on the door skins and panels?
I thought i read or was told somewhere to wipe the surface down with acetone before installing???
#4
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Whats the total cost of materials OP? Also, I know of a guy that got some type of roofing roll out stuff for pretty cheap and did the same thing. Results were very good, any one have any suggestions for any other product that can be used?
#6
i just purchased and received about 60 sqft of Edead 80, and 45, and I've sound deadened two different cars with multiple products so i wanted to give this one out for a try. Dynamat is nice, works well, but is the exact same thing as Raamat just stamped with dynamat all over it and much more expensive. Edead is completely different, you can def. tell it's a cheaper product. the foil facing is much thinner, and has more of a laminated plastic feel to it, making it a lot harder to work with around bumps, and indentations especially. The other products have a paper backing that is easy to remove, while Edead has a material much like saran wrap and very difficult to remove. While it seems Edead is much more flimsy, and weaker in the adhesive department, i don't have any other deadening to compare side by side. I hope it works as well, but the differences from this stuff are dramatic, and substantial
#7
I am about to do the same thing, so i am subscribing to this thread. Let me know how it goes and any advice. Some pics of the progress would help a lot too.
Do you plan on installing on the door skins and panels?
I thought i read or was told somewhere to wipe the surface down with acetone before installing???
Do you plan on installing on the door skins and panels?
I thought i read or was told somewhere to wipe the surface down with acetone before installing???
I paid $232 shipped for 120 sq ft. I actually ended up using it all. some areas like the drive line, floor boards and fender wells was doubled up.
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#8
Took a little longer than i expected, especially being busy with thanksgiving and stuff but i am done! I want to say just from the edead itself, noise has been reduce down to about 30-40%. and this is WITHOUT carpet, rear seats and all interior pieces! While the carpet was out, i went ahead and got it steam cleaned to get the exhaust smell out and a few stains. Havent got the carpet back yet so im sure it will be even more quiet when the complete interior is installed!
final thoughts... VERY easy to work with. No heatgun required. All you need is a razor blade, and a small roller and some cleaning solution. No smell whatsoever, non messy. 120 sqft is enough to cover the car like what you see in the pictures. I didnt do the roof or the hatch. If you dont mind the added weight, i say go for it! The car will be just that much more enjoyable to drive and not to mention being able to talk in the car with out a loud voice. here are a few pics...
final thoughts... VERY easy to work with. No heatgun required. All you need is a razor blade, and a small roller and some cleaning solution. No smell whatsoever, non messy. 120 sqft is enough to cover the car like what you see in the pictures. I didnt do the roof or the hatch. If you dont mind the added weight, i say go for it! The car will be just that much more enjoyable to drive and not to mention being able to talk in the car with out a loud voice. here are a few pics...
#9
this looks like a mess waiting to happen. over all the install looks good though.
My car has the entire trunk surface, floor, b pillar(sail panel), roof, and completely up the firewall done in deadening material as well as ensolite closed cell foam in most of those areas. ensolite will be applied to all of it though shortly. I'm currently working on the doors, and hatch. driver door is finished, inside and out, and i've gotta start on the passenger door, and hatch here soon. just finding the time to do it is taking a while.
most of it is done it raamat, but i have some edead in it too.
here are some pictures.
#13
I cant say where it makes the most difference sicne i did it all at once, but if i had to guess i'd say the rear of the car. Trunk, wheel wells, back seat.
#14
Kleeborp the Moderator™
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I actually have only done my doors so far...I'm waiting to do the rest of the car with Damplifier this spring when I get some free time. I don't plan on using Luxury Liner Pro anywhere else on the car due to its weight, but that is the stuff you want if you really want to stop the road noise.
#15
I only did the door skins (exterior) with Raamat. Each one took just over 4 sheets. I also put a 6"x6" piece of their foam material behind the new speakers I put in. I didn't want to remove the factory weather seal and replacing the factory foam inside the panels. You can definitely tell a difference when you shut the door. The speakers sound much better but hard to say how much of it is because of the new "cabinet" accoustics vs improved speakers (cdt 61CVs from Kee). ...probably more due to the speakers which are pretty impressive, btw.
I still want to try putting the Raamat foam material on the top side of my T-top inserts. Hard to say how much of the "whoosh" wind noise is coming from the glass and the roof, but I know just having the upholstered inserts in makes a huge difference, even though they are flimsy.
Also, if you have your door panels off, be sure to do the window weather stripping staple replacement so your panels don't crack! I found two hairline fractures that were just starting, not visible from the cabin side. The speakers, raamat, and staple replacement made it a long day but I figured if I had the doors apart, might as well make it worth the effort.
I still want to try putting the Raamat foam material on the top side of my T-top inserts. Hard to say how much of the "whoosh" wind noise is coming from the glass and the roof, but I know just having the upholstered inserts in makes a huge difference, even though they are flimsy.
Also, if you have your door panels off, be sure to do the window weather stripping staple replacement so your panels don't crack! I found two hairline fractures that were just starting, not visible from the cabin side. The speakers, raamat, and staple replacement made it a long day but I figured if I had the doors apart, might as well make it worth the effort.
#16
I only did the door skins (exterior) with Raamat. Each one took just over 4 sheets. I also put a 6"x6" piece of their foam material behind the new speakers I put in. I didn't want to remove the factory weather seal and replacing the factory foam inside the panels. You can definitely tell a difference when you shut the door. The speakers sound much better but hard to say how much of it is because of the new "cabinet" accoustics vs improved speakers (cdt 61CVs from Kee). ...probably more due to the speakers which are pretty impressive, btw.
I still want to try putting the Raamat foam material on the top side of my T-top inserts. Hard to say how much of the "whoosh" wind noise is coming from the glass and the roof, but I know just having the upholstered inserts in makes a huge difference, even though they are flimsy.
Also, if you have your door panels off, be sure to do the window weather stripping staple replacement so your panels don't crack! I found two hairline fractures that were just starting, not visible from the cabin side. The speakers, raamat, and staple replacement made it a long day but I figured if I had the doors apart, might as well make it worth the effort.
I still want to try putting the Raamat foam material on the top side of my T-top inserts. Hard to say how much of the "whoosh" wind noise is coming from the glass and the roof, but I know just having the upholstered inserts in makes a huge difference, even though they are flimsy.
Also, if you have your door panels off, be sure to do the window weather stripping staple replacement so your panels don't crack! I found two hairline fractures that were just starting, not visible from the cabin side. The speakers, raamat, and staple replacement made it a long day but I figured if I had the doors apart, might as well make it worth the effort.
I was curious but what are talking about when you say staple your panels so they don't crack? Mine aren't cracked yet but if there is something i could do to prevent it in the future i defiantly will while its apart.
#17
There are several threads that explain this, and an article you can read.
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...air/index.html
I basically performed the repair exactly as described in the article. I removed the staples and replaced them with screws. I made the holes a little oblong by moving forcing my drill bit sideways a little in both directions to allow expansion/contraction. Each panel has about a dozen staples. Look around on this forum and you'll find a lot more info on it. Some guys used wire instead of screws.
Pulling those staples is not fun, they are thick and strong. It's the worst part of the job. Be careful when you start playing rough with them, especially the ones near the narrow weaker areas of the panel edge. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.
Back on topic... Can anyone recommend some kind of primer that will allow my self-adhesive foam layer to stick to the T-Top shade plastic? I doubt it will stick very good without some kind of etching primer or something similar. That's what is holding me back from trying it at the moment.
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...air/index.html
I basically performed the repair exactly as described in the article. I removed the staples and replaced them with screws. I made the holes a little oblong by moving forcing my drill bit sideways a little in both directions to allow expansion/contraction. Each panel has about a dozen staples. Look around on this forum and you'll find a lot more info on it. Some guys used wire instead of screws.
Pulling those staples is not fun, they are thick and strong. It's the worst part of the job. Be careful when you start playing rough with them, especially the ones near the narrow weaker areas of the panel edge. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.
Back on topic... Can anyone recommend some kind of primer that will allow my self-adhesive foam layer to stick to the T-Top shade plastic? I doubt it will stick very good without some kind of etching primer or something similar. That's what is holding me back from trying it at the moment.
#19
As far as reducing road noise, YES, it does work! like i said before, night and day difference for me. Even with the cut out open, exhaust noise has been reduce dramatically, but not completely. and the door shuts solid with no loose/clank noise.