Headlight Wiring
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On The Tree
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Lake Jackson, Tx
Headlight Wiring Can anyone link me to a wiring diagram for the headlights on my '00 TA? I can't find one large enough to view and actually be able to see what it says.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 344
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Here is the headlight door motor schematic.
More often than not, problems with the headlight door wiring are in the connector itself. I've seen them get pretty badly corroded causing all kinds of weird symptoms.
More often than not, problems with the headlight door wiring are in the connector itself. I've seen them get pretty badly corroded causing all kinds of weird symptoms.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Great schematics, thanks!
Before I dig out my Fluke and blow the dust off, I thought I'd ask about a problem I just started having with my headlight motor, in case someone has seen this before and could possibly point me in the right direction.
I have a stock 2000 Trans/Am, Manual Trans, 162K+ miles, daily driver (even in Michigan winters). Still runs great and pulls like a champ!
Here are the symptoms.
So, what I'm seeing here is that whenever the 'parking lights' come on (including the blink when you arm/disarm), the headlight assembly opens. I'm thinking there is a crossed wire somewhere.
It appears as though "0.8 BRN" is crossed with "1 YEL" ?
Anyone?
Before I dig out my Fluke and blow the dust off, I thought I'd ask about a problem I just started having with my headlight motor, in case someone has seen this before and could possibly point me in the right direction.
I have a stock 2000 Trans/Am, Manual Trans, 162K+ miles, daily driver (even in Michigan winters). Still runs great and pulls like a champ!
Here are the symptoms.
So, what I'm seeing here is that whenever the 'parking lights' come on (including the blink when you arm/disarm), the headlight assembly opens. I'm thinking there is a crossed wire somewhere.
It appears as though "0.8 BRN" is crossed with "1 YEL" ?
Anyone?
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
The plastic gears in headlight motors are stripped. Do the 180* fix or get replacement gears (brass or plastic).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I know that this thread is a little bit old but , anyway here I go with my problem: I bought a 98 trans am and I've been having trouble with my headlights, they stop to work after a minute of been turned on, then it start to smell like if something is burning inside. I checked the headlight switch and it have a 20amp relay between the two red cables. The conection with the relay is melted. I dont see this relay on the diagram. It looks like the last owner did it on purpose but I dont know why. What would happen if I eliminate this relay? Could this be the problem that Im having?
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 344
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The two red wires at the headlight switch are already connected to each other inside the switch. One is the power supply from the fusible link (terminal J) and the other is the output to the DRL module for automatic headlights (terminal G). If you have a non-Canadian Firebird, the second one is completely unnecessary since you don't have automatic headlights.
In any case, there is no good reason for the two red wires to be connected outside the headlight switch and certainly no reason to put a relay between them. Are you sure it's a relay and not something else like a circuit breaker or fuse? If it's a relay, what are the two coil (control) terminals (#85 and #86) connected to?
In any case, there is no good reason for the two red wires to be connected outside the headlight switch and certainly no reason to put a relay between them. Are you sure it's a relay and not something else like a circuit breaker or fuse? If it's a relay, what are the two coil (control) terminals (#85 and #86) connected to?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 344
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Well, you can disconnect it since it is redundant anyway but I doubt that it is the cause your problem. It could be a symptom of a problem with the wire between the headlight switch and the DRL module or inside the module itself. There is an internal fuse in the headlight switch connecting the two red wires. If there was some sort of electrical short downstream (worn insulation on the wire to the DRL module or something inside the module), it could have blown the internal fuse and caused the added circuit breaker to overheat. But again, since you don't have automatic headlights, you can safely disconnect that extra wiring and circuit breaker and possibly eliminate the symptoms.
Teching In
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Liberty, SC
Speaking of the yellow and brown wires I ran one yellow to one brown on my 95 t/a and left the other yellow and brown disconnected and my head lights only popped up with the headlights on. And returned to closed when only the foglights were on.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 369
Likes: 14
From: Canton, GA
Great schematics, thanks!
Before I dig out my Fluke and blow the dust off, I thought I'd ask about a problem I just started having with my headlight motor, in case someone has seen this before and could possibly point me in the right direction.
I have a stock 2000 Trans/Am, Manual Trans, 162K+ miles, daily driver (even in Michigan winters). Still runs great and pulls like a champ!
Here are the symptoms.
So, what I'm seeing here is that whenever the 'parking lights' come on (including the blink when you arm/disarm), the headlight assembly opens. I'm thinking there is a crossed wire somewhere.
It appears as though "0.8 BRN" is crossed with "1 YEL" ?
Anyone?
Before I dig out my Fluke and blow the dust off, I thought I'd ask about a problem I just started having with my headlight motor, in case someone has seen this before and could possibly point me in the right direction.
I have a stock 2000 Trans/Am, Manual Trans, 162K+ miles, daily driver (even in Michigan winters). Still runs great and pulls like a champ!
Here are the symptoms.
So, what I'm seeing here is that whenever the 'parking lights' come on (including the blink when you arm/disarm), the headlight assembly opens. I'm thinking there is a crossed wire somewhere.
It appears as though "0.8 BRN" is crossed with "1 YEL" ?
Anyone?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par..._132997_11714_
from what I've read so far.
I'm about to take a look at the gears it see if thats the issue with the head lights. I'll post up and see what I come up with.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 344
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Do your hazard flashers work? They run off a different flasher than the turn signals so that would be a good indication of whether the turn signal flasher is the problem.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 369
Likes: 14
From: Canton, GA
Yeah I 99% sure its my gears it does the exact samething as this car in this video lol
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
I've found the easiest thing to do is buy an entire door motor assy from autozone. It's not much more than the gear and it comes with a lifetime warranty. So you'd be doing less work (for now anyway) and getting a freshly rebuilt motor.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 344
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Just so you know, headlight wigwag is very illegal unless you're police. They will get you pulled over in a second. And charges can include impersonating a police officer... just sayin'.
Yes, the power wire to each high beam is light green. It's a common circuit - both sides run off the same feed - so you will have to cut both sides individually to connect to the wig-wag module. You'll also have to provide a fused constant (battery) power supply and either a heavy duty switch or a relay to handle the current requirements.
Yes, the power wire to each high beam is light green. It's a common circuit - both sides run off the same feed - so you will have to cut both sides individually to connect to the wig-wag module. You'll also have to provide a fused constant (battery) power supply and either a heavy duty switch or a relay to handle the current requirements.
I'm an assistant fire chief in Illinois. 
http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/ilcs...qEnd=134900000
All wired up and works great. Thanks!!
http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/ilcs...qEnd=134900000
All wired up and works great. Thanks!!